Corsica, West Coast – Ajaccio to Saint Florent ,12- 19th August
Sunday 12th August
Sophie Davies and Mark Dalton arrived in the morning and we all went into town to look at the Fesch Art Museum (Palais Fesch-musée des beaux-arts, established by Napoleon I’s uncle, Cardinal Joseph Fesch) for a bit of culture before lunch.
Departed for Porto Pollo for the night planning to go and see the old stone menhirs in the area. We had a BBQ on board – windy again. Planning to go to Filitosa the next day. Only one scooter and one bike in town. We checked the cabs but they were not interested and so also checked the rental cars in Propriano and that seemed ok so decided to do it by rental car.
All packed it in for an early night after watching a beautiful sunset on the clouds – Raephaelite – probably on our minds after the museum.
Monday 13th August
Hew got diarrhea and was up all night – a wreck in the morning and so we decided to reassess at lunch time. Hew was still feeling awful to just decided to relax and around 1400 we decided to RIB over to Propriano and see if we could get a car for the next day.
On the way we stopped at the beach and went to look at one of the Genoese a towers but it was on private land and looked like it was being used. Another tower closer to town also on private land and in good condition and covered in ivy. Beach edges here every steep.
At Propriano the Hew and Mark checked out the fuel wharf and diesel supply while I looked for rental cars. After finding the two rental agencies also found that there were no cars for three days. We decided that fate was really against us and perhaps we should give Filitosa a miss this time – a great pity.
We were really disappointed in Propriano – not a very interesting town.Back to the yacht into a 20kt headwind and lumpy seas – when will it stop!!!
Tuesday 14th
Early in the morning there was spectacular thunderstorm and lightening in the hills. The whole area was covered in light as bright as day and also horizontal lightning. There was very little thunder and little rain unlike NZ thunderstorms.
Hew was feeling much better so we went off to get the diesel and some shopping. Mark was made tour guide so the next stop was to Caglese. Off north we headed and again the wind was on the nose form the north blowing 15-20kts. We had started out late again despite best intentions so due to the wind we sailed past the Iles Sangairuines. Lighthouse on top – no stopping as too late. Arrived at 1900. Very small area to anchor in but quite sheltered which was a relief
Wednesday 15th
Cargése was a lovely little town with a really homely feel to it . We loved the two churches and they were both celebrating a festa – one after the other so the bells rang all morning. We wished we had had longer to stay there and look around.
With a time limit for the two new guests it was onward with the itinerary and off we go to Girolata arriving at 1730.
Girolata was really a boatie town like Kawau Island. You can only get there by boat. The harbour was all moorings and full. Restaurants and bars on the beach and up the hill slightly. A very few houses and one run down genoese tower which was closed to visitors – we were told but open to locals. The was due to renovations wheich had been going on for ten years!! Now that is a challenge.
Thursday 16th
We got up in the morning for the normal swim and then Mark and I set off to find a way up the tower and ended up climbing the cliff form the water in jandals – not great – but really worth the climb. The tower is really in need of repair to be safe but great to go and see as it has not fallen down. We did not have a camera with us but James had his drone up while we were there. Sophie had a go on the paddle board and a relax.
Set off for Calvi and had a lovely cruise around the Nature reserve and the red cliffs including a motor around an island with little to spare.
The wind then rose again from the north – straight on the nose at 25kts so we headed for the nearest sheltered bay in a straight line which was Baie di Grovani and L’Argentella. After having a siesta we went for an investigate of the beach and the area. Very stony beach. L’Argentelle was an old silver mine now defunct and behind the beach was a huge camp ground still in good repair but also uninhabited. At the height of summer this did not look good.
Friday 17th
Got up early to beat the afternoon wind and made Calvi before lunch. We had all decided that we are getting sick of sailing into head winds!!! But if we are to make Saint Florent we had no choice for the next few days except to go early.
We anchored on laid buoys there EU110 run by a different company to the marina and very helpful staff. Handed out pamphlets full of information and offers for delivery of food from several restaurants, groceries etc etc. Huge number of buoys so plenty of room for everyone.
We got organised and went off for an afternoon walk around the citadel. It was great – very well maintained and magnificent views. they were doing up all the buildings slowly and so they are still being lived in. One especially right on the edge of the wall and others with multi coloured ivy. Great to see the whole town looking after uch a treasure.
Saturday 18th
Arrived Saint Florent supposed to be booked in the marina and they told us to enter but when we got in they then decided they didn’t have space for us so we went and anchored outside. No sooner had we anchored than they came and visited us and said they had now found room. By this time, we were all settled having lunch and so declined.
After lunch we went ashore and had a walk around the town. Great place and lovely feel to it. We then visited the citadel and were lucky enough to be there while there was a modern art exhibition on. There were some great pieces – we were very lucky.
Next stop was a sea side café for a drink or two – lovely under the trees and in the breeze and decided to stay and have dinner, but then found out that they only took French cheques or cash!!
Not enough on us and no ATM close by so up we get again and off to another restaurant on the sea. Also, very nice and had a lovely dinner there – mackerel, sole and bass – with one steak for James. A very satisfying evening.
On the way home we decided to take a tour around the marina and up the river – supposedly which had another opening to the sea – clearly shown on google maps. Great motor on a still night through the marina, past the camping grounds and back. Brilliant phosphorescence but the opening to the sea was shut so back the way we came.
Sunday 19th :
Sadly sophie and Mark left us to go home – off to Bastia by taxi and flight from there to London. Hew, James and I stayed and had a day off – doing the laundry, catching up on sleep and completing blogs!! Really just needed some down time not moving…..
