First Visitors: NE Sardinia, the Maddalena Islands & Corsica 16th July -1st August

Monday 16 July: We were undecided whether to anchor or use a marina at Olbia but with the steering playing up still and knowing we had to take it apart we opted for the Marina di Olbia – at a hefty  price of EU470.   The marina staff were not very helpful in finding engineers so we asked the charter offices and Maria at CS Marine organized one to come and look to give us a quote and he could do it the next day.

  

Liz and Simon arrived in the afternoon, and we gave them the bad news that we would be most of the next day in the marina.  We all went out for dinner in town at local restaurant recommended by the taxi driver – very good.

Tuesday 17 July: Geordie turnedup about 0900 on the ferry from Livorno which was about an hour late. At 0930 the engineer turned up and said he had to remove the steering rams, take them to the workshop, then would be back later and hoped to finish by 1800.

Liz and I left the boys and went off to get the Costituto stamped by the local Guardia Costiera. We were dropped off in town at the plaza by the marina shuttle and was told it was just up the road at the beginning of White Island where the main ferry port was.  We walked there about 1 km and found that the building was the Head Office and the staff there then sent us  off to the port office – another km to the ferry building – through ferry security then upstairs and into a queue as per normal. Finally get in – they take one look and stamp it in 2 seconds then we walked 2 km back into town. We had a nice peaceful coffee in a waterfront café then a quick wander through the middle of town.  Not much to see except plenty of expensive label shops for tourists.

We did find a very nice clothing shop with some great shoes and ones that would have suited Liz in her new “Rural Retreat” but none our size. I bought a shirt – beautiful material – so some retail therapy.!!

Returned to the boat to find that the boys  needed lunch which we made them. Next  we went off grocery shopping at the supermarket about a 10 minute walk  away at 1400 – very hot.  Hew and Geordie waited for the rudder man.  The groceries were delivered and stored away as the rudders were finished. We were ready to go and waiting for the account when we discovered that they preferred cash and at the discount being offered it was really worthwhile but none of us had much with us and no ATM at the marina.  After pooling resources and using some card money we were ready to go. 

We left the marina at 1800 and  heading back to Tavolara  Island discovering on the way that the steering was still awful and probably due to  not enough fluid in the hydraulic system. Apparently the engineer had not bought any with him. We continued to Tavolara for the night and discussed options of going back the next day to get more fluid. 

Wednesday  18 July: dawned and we all slept late and then went for a walk on the shore. EU4.00 to leave the dinghy on the pier while you went to the restaurant or beach. Liz and I swam back to the boat and the boys drove back. Decided to have lunch on board and then everyone decided they were too tired to do anything and it is such a magnificent spot that we stayed the night.

  

  

Thursday 19 July:we got up early and headed to Olbia again. Hew and Geordie got off to get the fluid from the marina and also to get some cash from the ATM. Apparently the engineer had had the liquid in his van and it was another miss communication in the rush to get out of the marina.

Liz and Simon and I cruised slowly into town then turned around and headed out again as we waited for them. Not easy as narrow channel and large ferries waiting to go out as well. Picked up the boys then headed north around the coast to have a look before we went around Cape Figari. Added more fluid to the system after we had cleared the directional shipping lanes.  It was interesting to see the ferries using them but not most of the smaller boats.  Then headed north ending up at ending up at Cala Juncu.

Friday 20 July: morning with the wind still on the nose we motored up the coast. It is a really beautiful area with manicured lawns and gardens and beautiful houses landscaped into the hills on the edge of the water. This was the first sign we had seen of anyone caring for any gardens since we have been in Italy – mostly just a few plants and bare ground.  There were also some lovely beaches and huge private yachts all around. Cala Petra Ruja, Cala di Volpe, Costa Smeralda, Capaccia, Giufo Pero, Porto Cervo.

 

  

  

  

This as also the start of the really big boat area – after a while they all got to seem normal. You can only tell the height and length by looking at the people on them.

  

  

The wind was on the nose from the north – so motored to Cala Coticcio (butterfly bay) on Isole Caprera  – and anchored for lunch at 1400 then stayed for the day. Very busy but by 2000 only four yachts were left. The park rangers visited to check our permit and gave us a good map and also some advice on where to go – they were very helpful. They also told us that our permit entitled us to anchor on any yellow buoy as they belonged to the park this was a great piece of advice since it was not in the documentation.

 

Saturday 21 July:The wind was up for the first time since Liz and Simon and Geordie had been onboard, so we had our first good sail for about 2 hours – north from the Cala Corticcio, around the north of Isole Caprera and Isole Maddalena then down the channel east of Santa Maria and into Passo Decca di Morto. This is a shallow area with park mooring buoys with a sandy and rocky bottom so beautiful colours. We initially moored on the eastern side near Isole Ti Stramanari as there was empty buoys but later changed. It was our first time with moorings and was very tricky in a area with so many boats and the wind gusting 20-25kts. Our permit was also checked here. The park staff told us that we couldn’t go by sea to the famous Spiaggia Rossa but could go from where we were and walk over the hill and look at the beach. We decided to stay the night and go the next morning.

The water is so clear here it is very beautiful but so popular there are boats everywhere and tourist ferries. You see lots of interesting sights including the rock on the anchor of one of our neighbours – firmly wedged. Our neighbours for the night were 4 small sailing dinghys full of teenagers – at 20-25kts it was a real adventure for them sailing out and brilliant anchoring under sail. Made us feel like we were in NZ again.

  

Sunday 22 July: After some difficulty finding the track since it was not marked on any map or any signs, we got to the top of the hill then down to the beach. Here we found a “beach guardian” – who was living like a hermit but looked after the beach and sold books about the beach. We were lucky that a visiting French couple and their children were there, and the wife could speak good English and obviously Italian, so she translated. The pink colour the beach is from Miniacina minicina, a single-celled organism that builds multi-pink calcareous shells and usually lives on the leaves and rhizomes of the local sea grass Posidonia oceanica.  When there is a lot of wind the branches get washed ashore and as they disintegrate, and the shells are washed up on the shore causing the colour. The beach has been closed as too many people were taking the sand away and the beach lost its colour. Very interesting.

          

We then departed the island and headed for La Maddalena and marina and a dinner ashore. La Maddalena is a pretty little town and the marina staff at Cala Gavetta were very good. The marina is right in the middle of town so very handy.

        

Monday 23 July: We left La Maddalena in a strong westerly and sailed for Corsica. We debated going direct to Bonifacio but since it would be on the nose and probably mean motoring again we opted for a straight line to a bay called Rondinara – a beautiful place and quiet sheltered anchorage. Quite a few boats but many disappeared later in the day.

  

Tuesday 24th July: We awoke to a lovely day and a delivery of bread a croissants by Boston Whaler from two enterprising young men. Great food and great to see some enterprise – we should have this in New Zealand.

After a leisurely breakfast we decided to go with the wind up to Port Vecchio. We were also having problems with the RIB motor and thought we might need some parts. I was also under the impression that I needed to clear customs or some port authority. When we got there we found they had no room in the mariana so we had to anchor off and get a lift in with the marina staff since our rib wasn’t working.

I went off to sort out the documents but none was really interested. Since we had come from Iatly that was fine as it was part of the EU. Besides there are only two international port in Corsica – Ajaccio or Bastia and they are the only place that is interested apparently.

Liz, Simon and I went for a look up the hill at the old fortified town which was really cute. We could have spent the whole day there but especially noteworthy was the church of Saint Jean Baptiste  which is all plastered inside and painted “Trompe-l’œil”. Amazing.

.Liz bought some new shoes since her current ones were giving her feet problems and we stopped at a very nice cafe then went back to the boat to see how the boys were getting on.

They were nearly ready so we decided to leave Porto Vecchio and go down to a nice beach at Porto Nuovo. It was a great find. The beach nearby were full but there were very few boats there so we had a lovely peaceful night nd one of the most beautiful sunsets we had seen.

Wednesday 25th July: We motor sailed into a strong westerly to get to Bonifacio but found that we could not get into the marina and by then the wind was 20 -25kts from the NW and we did not have room to get into the bay on the north side of the harbor either so decided to call it off and went back to  Cala Rondinara

Thursday 26th July: Palau – stopped in the marina for three hours while we had lunch and then Liz and Simon departed by car for Olbia where they were catching a flight out. 

       

  

 

That left Geordie, Hew and myself so we decided to just anchor off for the night just outside the marina which was great as clean water and nice beach and easy ride into town. I had also been trying to sort out out TIM data card and had been to pay for it s it would not recharge on line but when I got back to the boat it would not work so I had to go back in the morning. Nothing seems simple. We had music all night from two discos but a pleasant stay.

 

 

 

Friday 27 July: I went back to the Tim shop to sort out the card and this time they got it right – I had to take the card, and the passport to prove I was a foreign person!! To enable them to give me the overseas rate. Then we left for Liscia

  

This was the night of the moon eclipse and we got a great view – unfortunately I didn’t have a camera to do it justice

      

Saturday 28 July: Night Spiaggi del Golfo delle Saline

    

Sunday 29 July: All three of us  walked up from Cala de saline to the Bear Rock. Great walk and great view of the whole area through the La Maddalena Islands. Also fascinating that the rock has been used as a navigation aid for thousands of years. Then nice cool drink at the beach bar on the way back.

     

  

Monday 30 July : We then set sail and went to Canniogne for lunch. Couldn’t get into the marina there so anchored just in front with some other yachts then went up to get rid of the rubbish and look for some groceries. A great little town – very pleasant. Had a great lunch at a restaurant just above the yacht and both boys had desserts. Then off in the yacht and a good sail to Golfo di Marinella ad Cala Sabina

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday 31st July: Dropped Geordie off at Olbia then motored to Cala Brandinichi for the evening  – very nice but very busy. hew and I had one night together before the next visitors!!.