Hvar

We arrived in the afternoon to find the bay we were aiming for on Paklinski Islands was full so we moved two bays along, to Uvala Stari Stani at the Northern end, and tied back to the rocks. We were the fourth boat in – one at the head of the bay on an anchor tied back to a mooring , 2 of it tied back to rocks on the east side, and one in the centre of the bay. The wind increased slightly in the afternoon and the one in the centre swung towards the guy who anchored after us on the east – there was an altercation and the one who had been anchored in the centre shifted out. Then two more yachts tied to the one at the head of the bay. Next two small boats came in and anchored between all of us then one large launch anchored at the entrance. All now in close quarters.

All fine until about 0430 then the wind got up and a front went through. The largest boat sped off, the two smallest dragged then left. We were blowing so close to the rocks we released the stern line so we could lie head to wind down the bay. After 2 hours the front went through and weather calmed. The wasps we had been plagued with the night before came back. The wind backed to the South , the forecast was for 20-30 and all considered we decided to up anchor and cruise down the coast considering options.

We moved on to have a look at Hvar which had really bad rep, but found a mooring closest in and the harbourmaster said we could go there. Not mentioned in guides but a perfect spot. Settled in for the day. Five of us got off and 2 two stayed behind for a rest.

We walked up to the castle – great view. Liz and Simon bought their ferry tickets for Split the next day. Hew and Sarge guarded the boat with their eyes shut – catching up on housework and sleep!!!

The castle also has information boards mentioning the many wrecks around the islands so I have copied some of these for interest.

The five of us on land met up at the “Black Pepper” for snacks and drinks at lunch. Great restaurant.

Later that evening we all went out for a last dinner for Liz and Simon at Giaxa a local restaurant in the back streets. Beautifully presented food and great tastes.

That night was very windy blowing to 30kts on the mooring. There were also very loud parties in town so no one got a good nights sleep.

Liz and Simon departed on the ferry the next morning and Jan & Jeremy and Hew & I had breakfast in town. I had to collect the papers from the Harbourmaster and pay the mooring fee – 660kn. Then back to the yacht for all the washing and tidy up, change of cabins. When semi organised we departed the town , but fairly late.

Found a small cove a few miles away and decided to stay there for the night. We almost shifted after a boat load of drunken young men anchored in front, but finally trey left on dusk and we re-anchored for a lovely quiet night. There was a well known restaurant around the corner but we didn’t have the energy to eat out and cooked pork chops on the BBQ instead.

Next morning we reluctantly up anchored and motored across to a lovely old 80m private yacht – “Talitha”. Built in 1929 and refitted in 2008.

From there we motored around the NW end of Hvar to Stari Grad to restock on groceries where there is a large supermarket and mall close to the ferry terminal). The amount of boat traffic around the northern tip of the island was impressive.

After stocking up with groceries Jan and Jeremy decided to take the late ferry to Split to continue their travels in time to catch up with some friends. Jeremy says he is a sailor but looking at the amount of luggage they had I am not sure????? With Jan and Jeremy and Simon and Liz on board this week the aft bunkroom was full of suitcases!!!! Hopefully future travellers will realise we are a yacht and not an ocean liner!!!!!

Later we took a short trip into the Stari Grad town centre and wharves.

Left after having a look around 1200kn for a mooring on the Western wall. Went out to look for a nice bay again and drove into Luka Tiha – man in boat came up said 600kn so we said very expensive and he then said 440kn. Tried to get him to 400kn he said no. We decided to go for the mooring anyway and tied onto it and then he told us he wanted 540kn. All three of us heard the 440kn so we just untied and left. Blackmail was not on our list of features for any bay. only a quarter of his moorings were full so he really lucked out. Mortored across the Bay to Ondra’s Beach.

Lovely. No one there and just the forest some rundown buildings and one closed house. Good anchorage and no wind even less than other side. Out of the evening sun but definitely in for the morning sun. Very peaceful. We stayed for two days for rest which was great.

Next day we departed for Brac.