Montenegro – Izi Week 3
Arrived in Montenegro via Tivat. Listened to 16 got no calls and no answer when I called so changed 71 for Porto Montenegro got told clearance outside marina. Not very clear eventually found it behind fuel dock. Later found out most people use agent or marina staff next door to clear.
First check in was with grumpy rude policeman. Next stop harbour master who was a girl chatting to her friends and said to wait outside. Then closed up and said she had finished her shift. Next person on was 15 mins late and first thing said was that she needed time to get sorted. Next thing was why didn’t you use yacht assist they are free. I said no one told me and your colleague said to wait here. I was feeling really grumpy by now, totally different to friendly and efficient Croatia. Finally got the docs and stamps from her then back to the policeman to stamp it then had to go and get photocopy as his machine wasn’t good enough!! Lastly customs guys and gave them a copy
Hew discovered we could get fuel tax free on departure so booked a slot at the end of the week – before he was back they were trying to move us off the dock and no one was even waiting!!
Motored over to an island with a long shallow reef on one side. Anchored and relaxed. Went into the town later to have a look- almost nowhere to tie up a dingy.
Porto Montenegro is like a brand new shopping mall for the super rich. Very few people around. Nicely laid out two streets deep but no personality.
We had a lovely dinner at the Japanese restaurant great change after pizza and pasta for three months.
Very good marine museum about submarines and some naval history, then a walk around for the sub. We had a very interesting discussion with the guide and a visitor over local politics.
Departed Tivat for Herceg Novi, and found a great little town at NW end of Kotor harbour. Three forts, which sustained a lot of damage in most recent earthquake. Great bookshop and very village feel after Porto Montenegro. Had dinner at a bar above the beach.
Next day off down the coast to the blue grotto and other caves. Great grotto as can swim in it, open at both ends and boaties are all considerate. Also many other caves to look at.
Motored south to Budva ( called”small Dubrovnik” due to the marble streets and fort) and after looking at anchorages close to town moved out to the island and took the RIB into town for a look around. Lovely clear water. Very small and cute town with lots of little shops and marble streets. Most of the shops are selling cheap tourist trinkets or copies of bags etc. wall along the walls is worth walking over but the was museum a disappointment, more like a wedding venue.
Left the next day for Kotor Harbour again and Risen. Went grotto hunting on the way including a large cave/overhang that fitted the yacht.
On the way into the harbour we passed a very large cruise ship.Filled the harbour.
We anchored at the end of the harbour outside Risen. Very quiet and calm. The Risen waterfront is very rundown especially with two derelict hotels and all the palm trees in the process of dying from an asian beetle infestation. The mosaic museum which covers a Roman villa is very good.
Next day we visited visit the island called the “Lady of the stones”. Built by the Persat villagers after brothers found an icon of the Virgin Mary on a rocky reef. Every year they celebrate by carrying more rocks over from the coast. Now a lovely church and very interesting museum all about sailing history in the area. Paintings of shipwrecks and ship battles, collections of arms and swords. Huge collection of silver plates depicting thanks for voyagers and lives saved.
Next stop was Kotor after a cruise up the northern shorewhich has some very pretty bays and foreshore with many renovated old villas but also many empty and run down. Stayed at Kotor and looked around the town in the evening. Shops mostly Turkish and many selling copies of named brands eg handbags from Chanel, YSL etc. Next morning we walked up to the fort which is a great walk 1.2 k for 260m height, 1360 steps!! I am glad we started early. Normally supposed to pay €2 but no one there as we went up and coming back they were trying to charge €8 and getting some resistance from visitors.We shoppedin the fruit and vegetable markets – more pricey than the supermarkets or than expected but lovely fresh figs and fruit and berries.
Departed Kotor for Lazure Marina. The speed limit is 10kts main harbour and 6 kts in narrow channel. Going down the first channel I was doing more than 6 and speed up to get around the crossing ferries and then didn’t slow down as I was being passed by three boats doing about 20kts . Of course we have AIS and they don’t so I got called by Kotor VTS and asked to wait for the harbour master boat he asked where we were going then continued on his way and said he would see us later.!!! No sign of him.
Lazure is a lovely marina brand new with a boutique hotel and beach next door. We parked – whole pier to ourselves and then later went in for dinner. Izi’s last night with us so we ate at the hotel. Best Strawberry Mojito I have ever had. Lovely entrees and free condiments for the bread which were beautiful.A great farewell dinner.
Izi was in a brand new taxi at 0715 in the morning for Dubrovnik airport as she had to allow 2.5 hours in case of border issues. Dubrovnik is considered Montenegro’s second airport. Tivat airport is very expensive. Flight Tivat- Rome €600 one way and Dubrovnik to Rome-same plane- €85 and taxi to Dubrovnik €40.
The trip actually took about 45 min. so she had a relax at Dubrovnik airport before flying to Rome for a 9 hours there then departure for NZ. Back home to look after her ankle and back to work and reality!!!!!
Hew catching up.
