Mustique, A Wealthy and Private Community
From Bequia, https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2023/06/bountiful-beguiling-boobies-in-bequia/ we sailed to Mustique Island a gated community run by the Mustique company which manages the whole island and maintains the aura of wealth, exclusivity, and privacy. It is a small island in the Grenadine chain, known for its stunning natural beauty, luxurious villas, and wealthy visitors.
A Private Paradise
The sail across from Bequia was short and uneventful although we were hard on the wind as the island is on the outermost eastern edge of the Grenadines. We were not sure what to expect but we were welcomed by the harbourmaster who guided us to a mooring in the bay. Anchoring is not allowed and there 30 or 40 mooring bouys available.
Dianne and I had read a book by Colin Tennant’s wife about the island and then decided we should go and have a look. The book is called “Lady in Waiting: My Extraordinary Life in the Shadow of the Crown”.https://www.publishersweekly.com/9780306846366 It is an autobiography by Anne Glenconner, who was a lady-in-waiting to Princess Margaret and a close friend of the royal family. The book was published in 2019 and is an interesting read both for the comments on Mustique and for the observations on her life and marriage.
History
Mustique is one of a chain of volcanic islands formed by the collision of the Atlantic and Caribbean tectonic plates. The island covers an area of 1,400 acres (5.7 km2) and has several coral reefs that provide habitat for marine life.
The history dates back to the pre-Columbian era when it was inhabited by indigenous people who arrived from South America around 2500 BC. Later, it was occupied by the Arawaks and then by the Caribs, who left behind some simple tools that can still be found on the island.
The first European settlers arrived on Mustique in the 17th century when the island was claimed by France. The name Mustique comes from the French word for mosquito, moustique, as the island was once infested with these insects. The French established sugar and cotton plantations on the island, using enslaved African labor. The island changed hands several times between France and Britain during the colonial wars, until it was finally ceded to Britain in 1763. The British built three forts on the island to protect it from pirates and invaders.
However, after the abolition of slavery in 1834, the plantations went downhill and in 1958, it was purchased by Colin Tennant, 3rd Baron Glenconner, a Scottish aristocrat and entrepreneur. At the time it was a desolate island covered in shrubs, cacti, and jungle with no natural water, roads, or jetty. Tennant had a vision of transforming Mustique into a private paradise for the rich and famous.
He gave a 10-acre plot of land on the island as a wedding gift to his friend Princess Margaret, the sister of Queen Elizabeth II, who built a villa called Les Jolies Eaux. Tennant also invited other celebrities and royals to buy or rent villas on the island, creating a very exclusive community
In 1979, Tennant sold his shares in Mustique to a consortium of villa owners, who formed the Mustique Company to manage the island’s affairs. The company is responsible for maintaining the island’s infrastructure, security, environment, and services. The company also owns and operates the only hotel called the Cotton House.
The company also runs a beach café and another restaurant called the Veranda. The company also offers ferry service from Saint Vincent on the M/V Endeavour².
Current Day
Today, Mustique remains a private island that is owned by its homeowners. There are around 120 villas on the island, many of which are available for rent through the Mustique Company https://mustique-island.com/about/the-company. The villas come with staff, including chefs, butlers, and housekeepers, who cater to every need of the guests. The villas also have access to amenities such as tennis courts, golf carts, horses, and water sports equipment. Mustique is an ideal destination for those who seek privacy, tranquility, and luxury.
You can only go to the island if you are staying at one of the accommodation options. The island has nine beaches that offer pristine sand and turquoise water. Some of the beaches are secluded and quiet, while others are more lively and social. The island also has a network of trails that allow visitors to explore its natural beauty and wildlife. The island is home to tortoises, herons, iguanas, and many other species. The island also hosts various events throughout the year, such as music festivals, cocktail parties, and charity fundraisers.
The island has a reputation for being discreet and respectful of its guests’ privacy.
Privacy
Mustique is a private island that is owned by its homeowners, who have formed the Mustique Company to manage its affairs. The Mustique Company has the authority to grant or deny access to the island and its waters, as well as to impose fees and charges for various services.
Before you go to Mustique you need to obtain permission from the Mustique Company before entering the island’s waters. You can contact them by phone, email, or VHF radio. You will need to provide information such as your boat name, registration number, flag, length, draft, number of passengers and crew, arrival date and time, departure date and time, and intended anchorage or mooring location. You need to clear customs and immigration into the Grenadines at either St. Vincent or Union Island before sailing to Mystique but you can clear out of Mystique at the airport.
You need to pay a mooring fee of US$75 per night for boats up to 60 feet in length, and US$150 per night for boats over 60 feet in length for a minimum of three nights. The mooring fee includes very well-maintained moorings in Britannia Bay, access to water, garbage disposal, security patrols, and dinghy dock facilities. You can pay the mooring fee at the Mustique Company office or at Basil’s Bar.
You must respect the island’s rules and regulations while sailing and staying on Mustique. These include observing the speed limit of 5 knots within the harbor area, keeping a safe distance from other boats and swimmers, avoiding anchoring or fishing in prohibited areas, refraining from loud music or noise after 10 pm, respecting the privacy of the villa owners and guests by only going on land in the allowed areas which are very small, and following the environmental guidelines for waste disposal and conservation. You can get a tour of the island by taxi but it only takes about one hour as there is not much you can see.
You need to book any activities or services that you wish to enjoy on Mustique through the Mustique Company. These include dining at restaurants, visiting the spa, playing tennis or golf, renting water sports equipment, taking island tours or taxi rides, or attending any events or parties.
Arriving in Britannia Bay
We went ashore to book the restaurant at Basils Bar https://basilsbar.com/ and found there were few other people there. There were some in the bar from a couple of charter yachts in the harbour but only one other couple for dinner. Very quiet for a place that has a reputation for parties. Perhaps we were there the wrong day of the week or the wrong season!!
Since you can’t go more than 100 meters on the island without a guide on the first day we just snorkelled and rested. There was no hurry as we had paid for three days and we were not sure how we were going to fill the time.
Island Tour
On the second day Di, Pete, and I took a taxi tour. The island was very neat and tidy, manicured in all the public spaces, but you could see very little of the private houses except distant views.
Public Areas
Area Around the Airport
The airport was interesting as the runway was like a banana, curved up at both ends. There was a reasonable terminal but only turboprops came in. I checked out of there as our next stop would be Carriocou which is part of Grenada and the checkout was friendly and easy.
Houses and Mansions
Here are a few photos to give you an idea of the layout but if you would like to have a closer look go to the Mustique company website https://mustique-island.com/villa/
The Terraces on the top of Mustique is the largest villa there and sits on 17 acres of land.
Macaroni Beach
Macaroni Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches and is in a very natural setting with smaller villas peppered in the hills above. Most of the bush is allowed to stay natural and it is all interspersed with the Flamboyant tree a favourite of the islands.
Macaroni Beach
There is a local village just to the north of the wharf with a small town but we did not visit it while we were there. Many of the workers on the island come in live on other islands and commute by ferry for extended work shifts.
The friendliest individuals on the island were the laughing gulls who visited us most days. One decided it particularly liked the Starlink dish.
The snorkelling was not bad but not very exciting. I went out further to the reef but the water was murky and the reef was really bare. A few schools of fish but again not very exciting.
The sunset on the last evening before we left was spectacular with large buildups in the distance.
Departing
As we left the next morning I wanted to take some more photos but it was directly into the sun so not have much luck. We did pass the large solar energy installation which was interesting as many islands only have diesel generators, a few have wind generators and solar is only just appearing.
Overall we found that the visit was interesting but we would not return.
Next Blog: The Outer Islands
