We discovered that Kastela marina is really set up for charters ie the restaurant only opens on Friday and Saturday nights otherwise only a coffee/drinks bar. The chandlery was next to useless. The boatyard was very good but apparently they get plenty of practice on the charter board as they were explaining to us- one guy comes every year hires the same boat, and breaks something every year, mostly hitting rocks!!!! Fuel only available Friday and Saturday otherwise you have to take the yacht into Split.

Restaurant close by outside was a pizzeria and further down the road towards the old Kastela was an excellent steak restaurant with the best octopus salad I have had since I have been here. Close to the steak house was a brand new small supermarket – beautifully laid out. In the opposite direct there was a massive mall and very large supermarket- the origin of all the shopping trolleys seen in the marina!!!

When Izi arrived we went straight to the beach next to the marina.

The old town is like a fortified village with tiny harbour almost fully enclosed.

We were going to go into Split to look around the day after Izi arrived but it was so hot and we were all desperate to get out of the marina so we decided to head straight for Milna and get fuel there.

Hew went to collect the dingy and it wouldn’t start. Lifted the cover and found that someone had been into the motor- cut all sorts of wires and had all parts out. He asked the yard and apparently the technician had come to service a RIB and picked the wrong one.!!! They called him in to fix the mess and Hew waited. Meanwhile, I have the boat ready wondering what had happened??? Gave up waiting and took the paddleboard off and went out of the marina for a swim. Got back and Hew arrived with the explanation.

Finally got away and headed to the nearest beach in the side of Solta for clean water and a swim.

Had a great sail to Milna for over an hour and went into the harbour get fuel. The queue of 6 yachts all waiting then police launch ties up to dock and blocks half dock. We went into town area to show Izi then started to wander back to fuel dock hoping the queue had reduced – but no it was worse. Next, in comes a police RIB then shortly after one yacht towing another. It was hard to get around all the yachts jamming up the harbour. The police were chasing away yachts trying to leap into the gap. Finally, the towed boat got on the fuel dock and was tied down. We departed with yachts 6 waiting next to the fuel dock and 6-8 jamming up the harbour with another 6 or 8 were waiting outside and more coming into the marina- what a shambles!!!

We went around the corner and parked right in close after waiting for some day boats to depart. Great to jump into beautiful warm clear water with a secure anchorage.

Next morning I was up early and it was beautiful. Great spot.

Went into town later in the RIB to check on the fuel situation and 19 boats hanging around the fuel dock – lots of yelling and screaming.

The fuel guys told us it was like this every Friday and Saturday from 7am to 8 pm. The Norwegian guy at the bar next door said it was the best entertainment for a happy hour ever!!!! Wandered around town looked at the old buildings and had lunch.

Then we returned to our boat and our calm bay.

We had to get fuel so decided to stay the night and go early in the morning.

Got up and 6 am and left for the fuel dock. One large charter lagoon already there but we managed to squeeze in beside him stern to the pumps and waited for the fuel guys to arrive. We got the fuel at 7 and departed for the other side of the island to try and visit the monastery again. The forecast was 15 g20 for later in the day. Originally wanted to go to Vis and Bisevo again to show Izi but no point with the wind and swell direction and forecast.

As we cleared the harbour we already had 15kts so decided to sail past Hvar to show Izi (Hew and I felt we had spent enough time close to Hvar to miss it)  and on to Korcula. By the time we were out in the channel, we had 20-25 kt. Cruised past Hvar then hunkered down for the sail to Korcula Island which was hard on the nose. The wind continued to rise – we were carrying #2 reef on main and full Genoa. For the first half we were into a nasty short sea, two tacks later and the sea was more even and off the port side. We then had a steady wind of 28kt gusting 32 and were achieving 10kts hard on the wind. Great sail but thrashing the boat around a bit and required hand steering to the sea conditions.

Approaching the island we had to reef the genoa in so we could come down to aim for the harbour. Next minute the Genoa reefing line jammer let go so we furled the Genoa. Very shortly after “bang” and the #2 main reefing line broke. So dumped the main and motored into Vela Luka harbour and tied to a buoy. More repairs!! Forecast for the following day – thunderstorms and gales. !!!!

Late afternoon we looked around Vela Luka while Izi went for a run. Some very old parts but not a very interesting town. Discovered there was a cave on the hill too late to go and unfortunately it was closed Sunday.

Sunday began as forecast windy, grey, overcast. Forecast in the area is for 25 g 50 – so stayed. Hew fixed the second reef for main and we have returned to the old system – hopefully, no more problems. Couldn’t fix the #1 reefing line so just added to the list of future maintenance!! The good news is RIB is still behaving so happy about that.

Later in the day went out to a small island which is a park nearby and had a walk around then a swim. Very good. The wind had decreased but the sea still high.

Monday dawned grey and rainy again but we went to the cave anyway in light drizzle. Very pretty views on track to it- straight uphill 880m.

Then from cave we went down to the museum there are many artifacts they have found and with really good explanations. espcially interesting is the amount of sea rise and fall over the ages and the migration routes of men.

They also have a collection of wooden model boats made from olive wood donated by the artist.

later that day we went on down the west coast of Korcula Is. There are some great spots that we had no time to call into but will return to later. On the southern cape of Korcula we saw a large Turtle but were going too fast to get a photo. Slowed and went back but as we approached he dived so no photo – very sad. There is a big program for sightings and support. We arrived at Korcula and stayed the night. As lovely as always.

Izi and Hew went to look at the town and I went to update our police docs to give us another couple of days in Croatia. The friendly port policewoman was on holiday so I had to walk to the main station 1.5k away. I got there and the first couldn’t find the doc on the computer. Then they said only the lady who was away could update it so they were calling her colleague. He was very apologetic and then had to phone her to ask what to do. Finally with help from some more staff and another phone call the document was updated and I could leave – 90 minutes waisted. Hew and Izi picked me up on the RIB as the office was actually at the end of the boat bay halfway to the port!!!

Set off again for Brna on Mljet. Motor sailed all way. Wind dead behind and not strong enough. Stopped at bay before Brna but decided to continue on to Brna.

Arrived and tied up to Mana restaurant dock. There was a family flotilla of charter yachts in the bay 15 boats. Very nice sheltered harbour. Cute restaurant and friendly staff.

The early start was not to go sailing. This time the main cabin toilet which seemed to be leaking clean water!! After taking it out completely Hew found it was just a bad fit on the main pump housing. All cleaned and back in and set off at lunchtime. Now headed to Dubrovnik the last stop before leaving Croatia for the year.

Stopped at Dubrovnik and anchored just south of the old town right next to a very popular large cave favored by all the kayakers and jumpers. Expected to see someone asking for some money but no one that night. Bit of a sloppy night as the wind came up rather than fading away and got a bit of bounce back from the cliffs.

Next morning Izi and I went off to look around the town in the RIB. I found a spot to park it but did not realize it was right outside the harbourmaster’s office. He was just coming to work and asked us if we were off a yacht and we said yes then he said they were just bout off to get payments for the anchoring so we could pay now or the yacht could pay 675kn – I thought this was really getting steep just to anchor. He said we had 24 hours so we could stay till the following morning!! Not really on the plan – but we did have rib parking in the center of the old port!!. Anyway, off we went for a look around the old town and this time we did the walk along the top of the walls. We were lucky to be in early so only a short queue. Excellent walk.

Once we were down from the top we split up and I wandered off to find an optometrist to fix my glasses which I did. The marvellous lady who had my lenses into a new set of frames for only 400kn. Frames are all much cheaper here than NZ. If I had been buying glasses I could have got the top quality lenses and a spare set of glasses all for 600kn=92NZD, unbelievable. 

We arrived back at the yacht as Hew was finishing his work and set off for Cavtat. This time we parked in the eastern bay which is much shallower and calmer. Had a rest then Izi went into town for a run and Hew and I for a walk around. Found out that we could not check out that night and we had to go onto the Q dock in the other bay but they started at 7 am in the morning. We stopped for a drink then wandered back to the dingy to find it was already at the yacht and Izi had left us messages which we had missed. She had badly sprained her ankle. She picked us up then laid her down on the outside seat with ice and pain killers.

Next morning up at 7 and round at the dock by 0730. Already friendly help was there and we were first in so tied up and off I went. First of the harbour master who I had a long chat with about the decreasing numbers of tourists in Croatia, the state of some of the concessionaires and how we should put a report in on the official website about the good and bad parts of cruising Croatia. She was very interesting and said that the government was a long way from the action and did not really listed – just put the prices of everything up as they thought they could get more money and not noticing the decreasing number of tourists.. Also mentioned that there was still corruption rife amongst some of the concessionaire deals. 

Next to the pharmacy – more antihistamine cream, then the bakery  – always in the morning, then the police to finally check out. All complete and on the way – off to Montenegro.

We being good kiwis headed out to the 12-mile limit then did a triangle back – everyone else we saw just sailed along the coast about 1 mile out. It had been emphasised by the policeman that we must not stop – when I had queried him on the distance out and back since the countries are so close – he had re-emphasised the rule but it seemed that it was more important not to stop than to make the distance. Anyway, we made Montenegro and had not even been questioned by the radio watch.  I had heard others being asked for information early on then no one.

The arrival and the following week are on the next blog https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/08/montenegro-izi-week-3/

Cheers Barb  Hew

Water polo was set up on the foreshore and a car-free promenade along the foreshore every evening with only permitted delivery vehicles during the day. Auckland could learn a lot!

Sarges last dinner was on the waterfront watching Waterpolo.

Sarge departed Saturday morning for Dubrovnik airport and the UK.

Hew and I ate breakfast in town then returned to the yacht and watched the antics of berthing boats all morning. The best viewing since Bonifacio last year …. wrong places and shifted by harbourmaster, hooked anchors, change of places to fit other yachts, and on and on. The harbourmaster’s crew sit in a cafe till they are needed then turn up and seem to rearrange everything. The radio is not used and it is hard to figure out how the yachts/launches are sorted. In the middle of all this, you have canoes, paddle boats and swimmers. Everyone seems relaxed and to wait for everyone else. Swimmers seem to have priority and there is a very big swimming club here – out every morning and evening and just swim across the bay/harbour!!

Matt arrived at lunchtime and was initiated into sailing life with a dive on our mooring to thread an extra rope through the mooring chain we were on just so we could be sure for the next day when we had decided to take a trip to the old town in Dubrovnik.

Later we went to the beach bar for a drink and watched the waiters change deck chairs for bar stools then leap off the ledge for a swim. Good job if you can get it.

Graeme arrived at 9 pm in the middle of a festival which no one seemed to know the reason for but had pirates, painted ladies, fire eaters, belly dancers, African dancers, drummers and stilt walkers – a real mixture.

After walking to the wrong harbour from the taxi we finally found him and we had a great dinner at Buganvile restaurant – $$$ but perfect. The crew are now Barb, Hew, Matt, Graham.

Sunday we went by ferry to Dubrovnik to look at the old town on a guided tour.

Lots of people in town and a very interesting place. some beautiful churches and buildings and all so old, and the fortifications are spectacular. We could easily have spent another couple of days there. I was easy to understand how exposed they were to a sheeling from the hilltop above during the war. Since it was a very hot day and tourist numbers were huge, we decided to return to Cavtat, go for a swim and then move.

Departed Cavtat late afternoon and anchored at Kolocep Is, Uvala Donje Celo. There was a lot of rubbish on the seabed in the Bay so ended up anchoring again trying to avoid as much as possible of old mooring blocks, tyres, pipes!!

Late in the day a small yacht came in and moored right next to us. At around 0400 we got up as stern was slapping and found ourselves very close to the little yacht as the wind was pushing us out but the swell pushing us in. We decided it was easier to leave and motored off in the pre-dawn darkness to the next island -Lopud – and anchored in a lovely bay called Uvala Sunj. Only three yachts were there and one motorboat. We all went to bed and when we woke at 0800 when all the day boats started to arrive.

Mljet

We finally departed at 1100 and headed out for a good sail ending up at Mljet, Luka Saplunara. As we were getting closer a rib came out to encourage us to visit his restaurant called just “MS” and use the moorings so we did. He had come out much further than any other restaurant assistants that we had seen previously. We anchored in the western harbour and MS was just above the middle of the beach in the trees.

The restaurant had a lovely setting, great service and very good food but was pricey compared to others on the island we have been to. Well worth it – we had a lovely evening. I am sorry we did not have some photos of the restaurant site and more of their preserves but here are a couple.

The next day we set off up the coast stopping in the bay just over the peninsula to have a look and it was very pretty and a good but small anchorage.

Then a quick drive past in Okuklje (Maestro) harbour – would definitely go back there. 4 restaurants, dockside berths and moorings. Free berth, electricity, water and internet. Very sheltered.

Polace

We arrived late afternoon. The boys went in to check out the deal for the next day trip to the Park while I took the paddleboard around the bay.

There was a beautiful calm evening until about 2100 when a great electrical storm arrived. It was forecast and we did get a bit of rain but we were tucked in close to the shore and all happy. No visit from the park staff this time???? No idea why.

Next day we got out of bed early to hire bikes ( instead of walking like the time before https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/06/mljet/).

Further rain was forecast so we wanted to get the sightseeing finished early.  We cycled around both lakes and the Soline canal. It was a very grey and overcast day so not the same pretty colours as the first time but much cooler. This time there was also a current running through the entry to the Soline Canal under the bridge so Matt and I leapt in and floated downstream at about 5 knots. Great fun.

Cycled back to the harbour and handed the bikes in and had pizza and beer for lunch ashore. It was quite windy but never actually turned to rain again thought they were forecasting more thunderstorms. We decided to have the afternoon relaxing and reading on board. The boys watched the cricket then the tennis and I ended up making biscuits and more muesli. Much cooler than it has been lately and the harbour had many more yachts than the previous trip.

Next day we motored from Polace to – Skrivena Lula for a flying visit to look at the lighthouse and show Graham and Matt the harbour. Decided not to stay and continued up the coast to Uvala Kremena at the western end of Lastovo.

Lastovo

Uvala Kremena is a pretty harbour on Prezba, NW Lastovo. Old derelict buildings all along the northern part of the harbour. The southern corner was very quiet and unpopulated with many remnants of the naval military era including a submarine tunnel and further up the coast a tunnel for a small boat. They could very easily duplicate the Vis military tours in this area if they wanted to and the history would have been interesting. The water was very clear but the submarine tunnel full of rubbish.

Vis

The first stop at the eastern end was Budicovak Island for a swim and lunch.

Next was Uvala Striniva the Mamma Mia beach which we had previously visited with Simon and Liz and this time we managed to get a buoy. Since you cannot even take even a RIB into the cove Matt and Grahme swam in to explore.

Komiza

Komiza was the last stop on Vis with the intention to walk around the town, and maybe go on to Bisevo if the weather was fine the next day. We walked around the town in the evening before dinner and it was very interesting and well signposted. There were many adjustments to older buildings where concrete lintels or complete window or door surrounds had been put in old buildings – often under arches – really rough and ugly and such a pity. Historically a fishing village and still some ruminants of this remain.

The Church of St Nicholas has a great outlook above the town and was full of graves will huge marble tombs.

Evening time and dinner. Live cray pots (with a dead one as well) were tied under the restaurants on the foreshore. Lovely spot for dinner.

Hew was most disappointed that a church devoted to pirates was shut.

The next morning the locals were out checking the moorings – in a boat that looked like one of the Messina swordfish boats.

Hvar

From Komiza it was off to Hvar, the weather was grey and rough. Hvar was full and the forecast was not great so went over to the Palenki Island to have a look and decided to use a buoy bay. Stopped in Vinogradisce. Expensive 510kuna for a mooring with nothing included. 4 restaurants in the bay were all separate. We needed to replace the anchor roller with one Graeme had carried up from NZ with him and it needed to be done when we were on a buoy or marina so boys got to work that was achieved. Hew very pleased.

We all sat down for a relax and cocktails then Matt discovered that the ferry from Hvar to Dubrovnik the next day was full so he had to get out that night to Split and then a ferry the next day to Dubrovnik. We tried to get a boat taxi for Matt but couldn’t at a reasonable price so Hew took him over in the rib. Normally we would not even think twice about taking the rib that far but it is now deflating on the left pontoon on each trip – not good. Anyway succeeded and we said goodbye to Matt. The others returned and we ate dinner on the yacht and packed it in for the night.

Next stop: Stari Grad on Hvar; Luka Blaca on Brac; Rogoznica

Useful links: https://www.noonsite.com/place/croatia/southern-mainland-trogir-and-southwards/cavtat/