I had flying withdrawal symptoms so we  went ashore to the water sports centre to try and get a ride on the flying boat but they said it would need to be at 1700 as already other bookings for the morning. We agreed to return then. I then headed off to town to try and find someone to do my hair. As always the option of flying came first.  Anyway I found a salon which had the door open with one person in it. I found that they couldn’t speak English but the lady who was getting her hair done told me that they were not open and so could I do it the next day. When I said no and we were going they agreed to do it then. They were marvellous – great colour and great cut – my hair needed it and I was starting to feel like a ragged boatie.

What was more interesting though was the other lady having her hair done was getting married that day – all the official forms and a family dinner,  then a cathedral wedding the next day with a reception at the citadel. Followed by a third day with lunch for close friends.  The couple were from Paris – but he had a holiday house in Saint Florent and they both loved the town.  I asked how many guests– 2500 – amazing!!!!

1700 arrived and we went of to go fly but the wind was up and the water way too rough. Had a good chat to the friendly pilot and paragliders as they had been up all afternoon and said the wind was “shit” all over the place and not good paragliding either. They offered to pick me up from the boat if the wind dropped. Their program for the neft few days was very full. Lots of water sports here – sailing, skiing, floating seat rides, jet skis , parapenting, flying boat , gyrocopter etc etc. All very friendly.

Back to the boat to watch Hew and James take some more wires out while trying to find a path for some cockpit speakers. I think James has caught the boat fiddlers disease – or like father like son!! 

Cocktail hour entertainment in Saint Florent is the same as Bonifacio –  watching boats racing each other  to get into the harbor and if they can’t they just anchor off the entrance – all around us. The bigger ones need to back in also like Bonifacio. Obviously a very popular town and marina. Nearly all people on the anchored boats seem to go in  for dinner. We opted for the BBQ on board by the chief chef!!

Forecast for tomorrow good but a front passing through overhead so will wait and see.  Unfortunately no flying today. 

Tuesday 21^st August

We departed Saint Florent and we about 45 mins out when our flying friends rang and said they had a cancellation – unfortunately we had already departed so decided we better keep going – very sad.

We stopped at  Porto Centuri – an old fishing village – as it seemed a good place for a swim and lunch . We walked around and loved the little town. It is a tiny port with the houses all close to the boats and many of the houses were now restaurants. It is beautiful how they present the tables even in the smallest restaurants and loved the menu on the tree. Also everywhere we found it refreshing how they combine old with new in the buildings. They are lucky that of course there is so many old buildings to chose from as well Many of the islands around corrsica and Sardinia had spare buildings in them that were not being used. The people have left the villages and not come back in many cases.

Anchoring outside was easy and James and I snorkeled around the rocks but not much to be seen. We decided to stay for the night.

Wednesday 22^nd August:  Motored round to Machinaggio in very light winds – some spectacular view of the cliffs. Had good look around the town and lunch.  Could have easily stayed another day. but decided to move on while the weather was good as forecast high winds later in the week. 

This was our last stop in Corsica and we were sad to leave. the island has very high mountains and lusher than Sardinia so some spectacular views. Where Sardinia was all about the super yachts, very large fast RIBs  and expensive hotels – Corsica was much more about family sailing. We loved the Torres on nearly every point and also all the citadels in nearly every town. As Hew said the bread and croissants were definitely french and not italian. 

James has also put up a photo album of his shots in Corsica which are great.

  https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=650902494&sk=photos&collection_token=650902494%3A2305272732%3A69&set=a.10156657182402495&type=3&fb_dtsg_ag=AdzkmFBQHSLDoDasYjnYLYLgos0UfnabDS5qAOrXV_sc9Q%3AAdy7G5UqLRpNRNSoVWbpr8_MTUcxGIdFEf3k28GFCbee3w 

Sophie Davies  and Mark Dalton arrived in the morning and we all went into town to look at the Fesch Art Museum (Palais Fesch-musée des beaux-arts, established by Napoleon I’s uncle, Cardinal Joseph Fesch) for a bit of culture before lunch.

Departed for Porto Pollo for the night planning to go and see the old stone menhirs in the area.  We had a BBQ on board – windy again. Planning to go to Filitosa the next day. Only one scooter and one bike in town. We checked the cabs  but they were not interested and so also checked the rental cars in Propriano and that seemed ok so decided to do it by rental car.

All packed it in for an early night after watching a beautiful sunset on the clouds – Raephaelite – probably on our minds after the museum.

Monday 13th August 

Hew got diarrhea and was up all night – a wreck in the morning and so we decided to reassess at lunch time. Hew was  still feeling awful to just decided to relax and  around 1400 we decided to RIB over to Propriano and see if we could get a car for the next day.

On the way we stopped at the beach and went to look at one of the Genoese a towers but it was on private land and looked like it  was being used. Another tower closer to town also on private land and in good condition and  covered in ivy. Beach edges here every steep.

At Propriano the Hew and Mark  checked out the fuel wharf and diesel supply while I looked for rental cars. After finding the two rental agencies also found that there were no cars for three days.  We decided that fate was really against us  and perhaps we should give Filitosa a miss this time – a great pity.

We were really disappointed in Propriano – not a very interesting town.Back to the yacht into a 20kt headwind and lumpy seas – when will it stop!!!

Tuesday 14th

Early in the morning there was spectacular thunderstorm and lightening in the hills. The whole area was covered in light as bright as day and also horizontal lightning. There was very little thunder and little rain unlike NZ thunderstorms.

Hew was feeling much better so we went off to get the diesel and some shopping. Mark was made tour guide so the next stop was to Caglese. Off north we headed and again the wind was on the nose form the north blowing 15-20kts. We had started out late again despite best intentions so due to the wind we sailed past the Iles Sangairuines. Lighthouse on top – no stopping as too late. Arrived at 1900. Very small area to anchor in but quite sheltered which was a relief

Wednesday 15^th

Cargése was a lovely little town with a really homely feel to it . We loved the two churches and they were both celebrating a festa – one after the other so the bells rang all morning. We wished we had had longer to stay there and look around. 

 With a time limit for the two new guests it was onward with the itinerary and off we go to Girolata arriving at 1730.

Girolata was really a boatie town like Kawau Island. You can only get there by boat. The harbour was all moorings and full. Restaurants and bars on the beach and up the hill slightly. A very few houses and one run down genoese tower which was closed to visitors – we were told but open to locals.  The was due to renovations wheich had been going on for ten years!! Now that is a challenge. 

Thursday 16th

We got up in the morning for the normal swim and then Mark and I set off to find a way up the tower and ended up climbing the cliff form the water in jandals – not great – but really worth the climb. The tower is really in need of repair to be safe but great to go and see as it has not fallen down. We did not have a camera with us but James had his drone up while we were there.  Sophie had a go on the paddle board and a relax.

Set off for Calvi and had a lovely cruise around the Nature reserve and the red cliffs including a motor around an island with little to spare.

The wind then rose again from the north – straight on the nose at 25kts so we headed for the nearest sheltered bay in a straight line which was Baie di Grovani and L’Argentella. After having a siesta we went for an investigate of the beach and the area. Very stony beach. L’Argentelle was an old silver mine now defunct and behind the beach was a huge camp ground still in good repair but also uninhabited. At the height of  summer this did not look good.

Friday 17^th

Got up early to beat the afternoon wind and made Calvi before lunch. We had all decided that we are getting sick of sailing into head winds!!! But if we are to make Saint Florent we had no choice for the next few days except to go early.

We anchored on laid buoys there EU110 run by a different company to the marina and very helpful staff. Handed out pamphlets full of  information and offers for delivery of food from several restaurants, groceries etc etc. Huge number of buoys so plenty of room for everyone. 

We got organised and went off for an afternoon walk around the citadel. It was great – very well maintained and magnificent views. they were doing up all the buildings slowly and so they are still being lived in. One especially right on the edge of the wall and others with multi coloured ivy. Great to see the whole town looking after uch a treasure.

Saturday 18th

Arrived Saint Florent supposed to be booked in the marina and they told us to enter but when we got in they then decided they didn’t have space for us so we went and anchored outside. No sooner had we anchored than they came and visited us and said they had now found room. By this time, we were all settled having lunch and so declined.

After lunch we went ashore and had a walk around the town. Great place and lovely feel to it. We then visited the citadel and were lucky enough to be there while there was a modern art exhibition on. There were some great pieces – we were very lucky.

Next stop was a sea side café for a drink or two – lovely under the trees and in the breeze and decided to stay and have dinner, but then found out that they only took French cheques or cash!!

Not enough on us and no ATM close by so up we get again and off to another restaurant on the sea. Also, very nice and had a lovely dinner there – mackerel, sole and bass – with one steak for James. A very satisfying evening.

On the way home we decided to take a tour around the marina and up the river – supposedly which had another opening to the sea – clearly shown on google maps. Great motor on a still night through the marina, past the camping grounds and back. Brilliant phosphorescence but the opening to the sea was shut so back the way we came.

Sunday 19th :

Sadly sophie and Mark left us to go home – off to Bastia by taxi and flight from there to London. Hew, James and I  stayed and had a day off – doing the laundry, catching up on sleep and completing blogs!! Really just needed some down time not moving…..

Thursday 2^nd  August: Back into Olbia town to collect John Latu and then to Olbia Marina some new charts for the Raymarine CMAP system from Marie at CS Marine.

Stayed at a Cala Moresca, in Golfo Arinci for the night. Very pretty anchorage. Fish farm on the outside but not too crowded.

Friday 3rd August: James and John ran up the hill in the morning to look at the signalling station and old gun emplacements and to keep fit. We could see this was going to be a much more active visitor group than the last!

Great rock formations round the corner on the eastern side.

Next stop was  on Isola di Mortorio, Spaggia di Mortoria. On the way north the first time we had thought you could not anchor here but everyone seemed to so we reread the information and it seemed OK if you were a certain distance from shore. We found a lot of day trippers in RIBs right in lose to the beach,  but a very cute bay  and we stayed the night. Luckily we had renewed our permit for the La Maddalena Islands as we were checked again as soon as we anchored.

Saturday 4th August

Motored to Capo D’Oro so the boys could climb Bear rock. Had to keep them busy and despite them thinking they could do it in one hour it took two. Hew and I had some peace and quiet time on the boat.We then sailed over to Spiaggia di Porto Palma, on Caprera Is.

Sunday 5th: More exercise needed, so we all walked over the fortifications first thing in the morning – very interesting both the older fortifications and the empty buildings from the later NATO base .

Then motored counter clockwise around Caprera Is and stopped at the NW corner for lunch – in a bay that was not charted correctly at all. When checked on google maps we could see under the water rocks but not shown on the maps.

We then continued counter-clockwise around La Maddalena Is to stop at Marina Cala del Pont for the night.  It is a small marina about 4km out of town but really close to the bridge between the two islands. There is a 3kt speed limit through the bridge, but few seem to take it seriously and the marina staff said they have had little support from the coast guard even though they photograph the worst offenders. The wash affects the marina but otherwise it is a nice quiet marina.

We motored into La Maddalena town on the RIB to have dinner and a look around for the boys. LAter we returned  at full speed, on the plane,  in the pitch black, no light,  using the Navionics maps on my iphone for navigation!!! It all worked very well.

Monday 6th August: Off to La Maddalena  for groceries and some shopping and to top up the TIM data card before  heading for Corsica while the boys went off for a wander and a bit of personal shopping.

Left for Isole Budelli, the other side of Deadmans Gulch.  This time the weather was a  light north easterly winds instead of howling westerlies. Found that we were in the side of all the big boats. Anchored in a nice little bay and went for a swim and paddle board. Sometime later some an American yacht anchored then they went off for a swim. When they came back they told us there was a big rock just off our port bow and just in front of them. We could see where they were pointing but we were currently hanging the other way. 

There was no sign of any rock on Navionics or CMAPs but looking at Google satellite you could clearly see the rock reef and the highest point was just about 50cm under the surface. This was the second time we had found a rock on google earth and not on the charts – we were using cmap on the yacht Raymarine system and NAvionics on the iphone and ipad – double checking – now triple checking

James and I went for a snorkel and saw more fish than I have seen anywhere in Sardinia so far.

When we got back the Americans had left and we had swung out so we re-anchored further into the bay.

Tuesday 7th August : Finally disposed of on board hitch hiker ( see separate post by Hew) who had been eating the avionics wires .

Beautiful clear water and lovely swim. Hew was talking to Barbie and then fixing the crew toilet – a job left over from a couple of month ago.

Finally all was finished and we decided to depart for Corsica and stay in Rondinara – baquette bay again. 

Arrived late in the day very busy, cloudy after noon, high humidity and water not nearly as clear as the Maddalenas. It seemed a disappointment this time. 

Wednesday 8th August : Dawned with a beautiful clear calm day.  The baquettes, croissants, choco-pain and raisin bread arrived at 0830.  Life is good. 🙂

We set off Bonifacio and got to the cliffs at the town entrance in time for lunch so anchored in front of a favourite swimming spot. I had a snorkel and the boy wents off to jump from  the cliffs.

Departed after our lunch swim and got to Bonifacio about 1400 and then had another argument about whether we had a berth or not. Then I discovered the boat name in the booking system was incorrect. After much discussion/argument they found our booking and we were on the end of a pier in the middle of town, just down from the fuel wharf. Great spot as at the edge of the channel which is very narrow and could see all the comings and goings and arguments for the rest of the afternoon. The boys and girls doing the marina organization have boats and they do a great job of shepherding everyone everywhere. Made really good entertainment for the cocktail hour. Lots of little shops and cafes around to chose from very close by.

The harbour was absolutely full and huge super yachts had to back into their space near the capitaneria at the far end of the harbor. Very little room and the ferries just dodged in and out around them as they back up – amazing to watch. Complete traffic jam by 1700  with horns blasting, people yelling and and general bedlam. Anyone who wanted gas also had to line up or hover around the fuel wharf. If you were on the large boat marina area you could get a tanker but not where most of the yachts were parked so in the morning there was a rush for the fuel dock then more boats cluttering up the harbor as they waited to get diesel.

Thursday 9th

Walked all around the old town and citadel and down the steps in the cliff. Pity you couldn’t swim at the end at that spot as very hot and crowded. Up again for a gelato and then off back to the boat.                    

Friday 10^th

Departed  early for  – Porto Pollo  skipped the fuel dock as too many in the queue ( hovering in the way)

Saturday 11th

We confirmed our marina booking for Ajaccio in the morning and were told that we could  not be in until 1700 so we went over and stopped at Spiaggia di Stagnolu, on the southern side of Golfe d’Ajaccio  For lunch. Very windy as 15kt northerlies again and a lot of boats but nice for a swim and lunch.

The booking form for Ajaccio said Tinno Rossi Marina, but when we got there there were no boys in boats only on land standing around doing nothing,  and no English spoken on the radio and so James and I got into the RIB and went to office where I found the guy with the radio and screens storming out of the office to have a fist fight with one of his staff – who was supposed to be doing something but was instead blowing up a paddle board!!! He was hauled off by two other staff members went back to the office and then another staff member who spoke English informed me that we were at the new marina at Ajaccio called Margunaghju!! What a name but the directions were between the ferry and the other main marina called Porto Charles Ornano. James and I went ahead in the RIB and found the boys there really helpful. The marina was only 3 weeks old and only one pontoon which seemed to be only for Catamarans. The staff  were a complete change from Tino Rossi and it was really close to the train station so was in fact perfect. The ferries were a bit noisy in the afternoon but all shut down by night. 

Sunday 12^th August:John departed at 0730 on the train with his “small” travelling bag for Bastia . Both boys agreed it was the first sunrise they had seen on the trip!!  All three of them holding themselves up with their hands in their pockets!! We returned  to the boat for a clean up before our next guests.

Liz and Simon arrived in the afternoon, and we gave them the bad news that we would be most of the next day in the marina.  We all went out for dinner in town at local restaurant recommended by the taxi driver – very good.

Tuesday 17 July: Geordie turnedup about 0900 on the ferry from Livorno which was about an hour late. At 0930 the engineer turned up and said he had to remove the steering rams, take them to the workshop, then would be back later and hoped to finish by 1800.

Liz and I left the boys and went off to get the Costituto stamped by the local Guardia Costiera. We were dropped off in town at the plaza by the marina shuttle and was told it was just up the road at the beginning of White Island where the main ferry port was.  We walked there about 1 km and found that the building was the Head Office and the staff there then sent us  off to the port office – another km to the ferry building – through ferry security then upstairs and into a queue as per normal. Finally get in – they take one look and stamp it in 2 seconds then we walked 2 km back into town. We had a nice peaceful coffee in a waterfront café then a quick wander through the middle of town.  Not much to see except plenty of expensive label shops for tourists.

We did find a very nice clothing shop with some great shoes and ones that would have suited Liz in her new “Rural Retreat” but none our size. I bought a shirt – beautiful material – so some retail therapy.!!

Returned to the boat to find that the boys  needed lunch which we made them. Next  we went off grocery shopping at the supermarket about a 10 minute walk  away at 1400 – very hot.  Hew and Geordie waited for the rudder man.  The groceries were delivered and stored away as the rudders were finished. We were ready to go and waiting for the account when we discovered that they preferred cash and at the discount being offered it was really worthwhile but none of us had much with us and no ATM at the marina.  After pooling resources and using some card money we were ready to go. 

We left the marina at 1800 and  heading back to Tavolara  Island discovering on the way that the steering was still awful and probably due to  not enough fluid in the hydraulic system. Apparently the engineer had not bought any with him. We continued to Tavolara for the night and discussed options of going back the next day to get more fluid. 

Wednesday  18 July: dawned and we all slept late and then went for a walk on the shore. EU4.00 to leave the dinghy on the pier while you went to the restaurant or beach. Liz and I swam back to the boat and the boys drove back. Decided to have lunch on board and then everyone decided they were too tired to do anything and it is such a magnificent spot that we stayed the night.

Thursday 19 July:we got up early and headed to Olbia again. Hew and Geordie got off to get the fluid from the marina and also to get some cash from the ATM. Apparently the engineer had had the liquid in his van and it was another miss communication in the rush to get out of the marina.

Liz and Simon and I cruised slowly into town then turned around and headed out again as we waited for them. Not easy as narrow channel and large ferries waiting to go out as well. Picked up the boys then headed north around the coast to have a look before we went around Cape Figari. Added more fluid to the system after we had cleared the directional shipping lanes.  It was interesting to see the ferries using them but not most of the smaller boats.  Then headed north ending up at ending up at Cala Juncu.

Friday 20 July: morning with the wind still on the nose we motored up the coast. It is a really beautiful area with manicured lawns and gardens and beautiful houses landscaped into the hills on the edge of the water. This was the first sign we had seen of anyone caring for any gardens since we have been in Italy – mostly just a few plants and bare ground.  There were also some lovely beaches and huge private yachts all around. Cala Petra Ruja, Cala di Volpe, Costa Smeralda, Capaccia, Giufo Pero, Porto Cervo.

This as also the start of the really big boat area – after a while they all got to seem normal. You can only tell the height and length by looking at the people on them.

The wind was on the nose from the north – so motored to Cala Coticcio (butterfly bay) on Isole Caprera  – and anchored for lunch at 1400 then stayed for the day. Very busy but by 2000 only four yachts were left. The park rangers visited to check our permit and gave us a good map and also some advice on where to go – they were very helpful. They also told us that our permit entitled us to anchor on any yellow buoy as they belonged to the park this was a great piece of advice since it was not in the documentation.

Saturday 21 July:The wind was up for the first time since Liz and Simon and Geordie had been onboard, so we had our first good sail for about 2 hours – north from the Cala Corticcio, around the north of Isole Caprera and Isole Maddalena then down the channel east of Santa Maria and into Passo Decca di Morto. This is a shallow area with park mooring buoys with a sandy and rocky bottom so beautiful colours. We initially moored on the eastern side near Isole Ti Stramanari as there was empty buoys but later changed. It was our first time with moorings and was very tricky in a area with so many boats and the wind gusting 20-25kts. Our permit was also checked here. The park staff told us that we couldn’t go by sea to the famous Spiaggia Rossa but could go from where we were and walk over the hill and look at the beach. We decided to stay the night and go the next morning.

The water is so clear here it is very beautiful but so popular there are boats everywhere and tourist ferries. You see lots of interesting sights including the rock on the anchor of one of our neighbours – firmly wedged. Our neighbours for the night were 4 small sailing dinghys full of teenagers – at 20-25kts it was a real adventure for them sailing out and brilliant anchoring under sail. Made us feel like we were in NZ again.

Sunday 22 July: After some difficulty finding the track since it was not marked on any map or any signs, we got to the top of the hill then down to the beach. Here we found a “beach guardian” – who was living like a hermit but looked after the beach and sold books about the beach. We were lucky that a visiting French couple and their children were there, and the wife could speak good English and obviously Italian, so she translated. The pink colour the beach is from Miniacina minicina, a single-celled organism that builds multi-pink calcareous shells and usually lives on the leaves and rhizomes of the local sea grass Posidonia oceanica.  When there is a lot of wind the branches get washed ashore and as they disintegrate, and the shells are washed up on the shore causing the colour. The beach has been closed as too many people were taking the sand away and the beach lost its colour. Very interesting.

We then departed the island and headed for La Maddalena and marina and a dinner ashore. La Maddalena is a pretty little town and the marina staff at Cala Gavetta were very good. The marina is right in the middle of town so very handy.

Monday 23 July: We left La Maddalena in a strong westerly and sailed for Corsica. We debated going direct to Bonifacio but since it would be on the nose and probably mean motoring again we opted for a straight line to a bay called Rondinara – a beautiful place and quiet sheltered anchorage. Quite a few boats but many disappeared later in the day.

Tuesday 24th July: We awoke to a lovely day and a delivery of bread a croissants by Boston Whaler from two enterprising young men. Great food and great to see some enterprise – we should have this in New Zealand.

After a leisurely breakfast we decided to go with the wind up to Port Vecchio. We were also having problems with the RIB motor and thought we might need some parts. I was also under the impression that I needed to clear customs or some port authority. When we got there we found they had no room in the mariana so we had to anchor off and get a lift in with the marina staff since our rib wasn’t working.

I went off to sort out the documents but none was really interested. Since we had come from Iatly that was fine as it was part of the EU. Besides there are only two international port in Corsica – Ajaccio or Bastia and they are the only place that is interested apparently.

Liz, Simon and I went for a look up the hill at the old fortified town which was really cute. We could have spent the whole day there but especially noteworthy was the church of Saint Jean Baptiste  which is all plastered inside and painted “Trompe-l’œil”. Amazing.

.Liz bought some new shoes since her current ones were giving her feet problems and we stopped at a very nice cafe then went back to the boat to see how the boys were getting on.

They were nearly ready so we decided to leave Porto Vecchio and go down to a nice beach at Porto Nuovo. It was a great find. The beach nearby were full but there were very few boats there so we had a lovely peaceful night nd one of the most beautiful sunsets we had seen.

Wednesday 25th July: We motor sailed into a strong westerly to get to Bonifacio but found that we could not get into the marina and by then the wind was 20 -25kts from the NW and we did not have room to get into the bay on the north side of the harbor either so decided to call it off and went back to  Cala Rondinara

Thursday 26th July: Palau – stopped in the marina for three hours while we had lunch and then Liz and Simon departed by car for Olbia where they were catching a flight out. 

That left Geordie, Hew and myself so we decided to just anchor off for the night just outside the marina which was great as clean water and nice beach and easy ride into town. I had also been trying to sort out out TIM data card and had been to pay for it s it would not recharge on line but when I got back to the boat it would not work so I had to go back in the morning. Nothing seems simple. We had music all night from two discos but a pleasant stay.

Friday 27 July: I went back to the Tim shop to sort out the card and this time they got it right – I had to take the card, and the passport to prove I was a foreign person!! To enable them to give me the overseas rate. Then we left for Liscia

This was the night of the moon eclipse and we got a great view – unfortunately I didn’t have a camera to do it justice

Saturday 28 July: Night Spiaggi del Golfo delle Saline

Sunday 29 July: All three of us  walked up from Cala de saline to the Bear Rock. Great walk and great view of the whole area through the La Maddalena Islands. Also fascinating that the rock has been used as a navigation aid for thousands of years. Then nice cool drink at the beach bar on the way back.

Monday 30 July : We then set sail and went to Canniogne for lunch. Couldn’t get into the marina there so anchored just in front with some other yachts then went up to get rid of the rubbish and look for some groceries. A great little town – very pleasant. Had a great lunch at a restaurant just above the yacht and both boys had desserts. Then off in the yacht and a good sail to Golfo di Marinella ad Cala Sabina

Tuesday 31st July: Dropped Geordie off at Olbia then motored to Cala Brandinichi for the evening  – very nice but very busy. hew and I had one night together before the next visitors!!.