The weather forecast in Corfu stayed the same for three days – thunderstorms and wind.

Gouvia Marina

On the morning of the third day, we decided to make a break for it and go to Gouvia even if we had to anchor in the bay while we got the engine pump fixed. A friend had given us the name of some agents at A1 yachting and we called them to see if they could handle our entry into Greece to save us from going into town. They came back shortly after and although the marina had told us there were no berths when we called they had managed to find one for us.

We cruised down the coast which is beautiful and green and such a change after Malta which is all brown, dry, and rocky.

Video …

Corfu was very busy with charter boats going in and out of the marina, but they were having to wait for slots in their own area and we went in and were handled almost immediately.

The engineers arrived very quickly and took the pump away to be fixed. Next, we wandered up to the office of A1 yachting and discovered that the immigration police who were in the building next door were not happy with our documents. They could not find the exit stamp for Malta but they did find the entry stamp for Italy and it was over 90 days old. According to our passports, we had been nowhere else. Here we go again. There was much discussion on the ins and outs of Schengen and the individual countries’ agreements. In the end, it came down to the fact that we should have been stamped in each country so we could count the day’s agreement separately from the Schengen days.

Of course, leaving malta they treated us as crew on a yacht. Albania had its own system and stamped papers, not passports – mainly for the yacht requirements. Then the Greek authorities were treating us as passengers but decided in the final stages we should be crew. In the end, all the documents were signed and stamped and we were legitimate.

The next day the pump came back and we were all set to leave. We picked up some fuel at the fuel dock – last visited two years ago and ago. Then we set off with a forecast that would give us 30% on a tight reach than all the rest on an easy reach to Malta at about 15kts. Sounded great. As you can see from the photo – the weather was not that warm – not the Mediterranean we were used to.

Stormy Passage

We departed down the east coast hoping for a quick trip. After passing Corfu town the wind was dead on the nose again – seems to happen to us all the time. The wind was already averaging 22kts from the South rather than SW and the sea was rough already 1-2m and short. Rather than bashing into all the way on the motor we decided to tack and motor sail to the end of Corfu.

We reached the end of Corfu late in the day and turned right slightly to track for Malta. This did not seem to help as we turned right so did the wind. The wind was hard on so we motor sailed. The forecast was ok but windy. During the night the wind increased and so did the seas. At one point we were making 3.5kts Speed over the ground – depressing.

The second afternoon we were down to 3 reefs and no genoa – or now and then a handkerchief out. Making 6.5 knots and still motor sailing as the wind was so far forward. We were running forecasts every 6 hours and decided if the wind got no better we were going to head for Syracuse and not Malta and have a rest. We were running about 6 hours on ETA.

As the evening approached the wind increased from the NW we were hand-sailing rather than on autopilot which could not see the approaching waves and we had been dropping off some of the big waves. Still doing 6.5 knots but very rough. We had a good sail for about 3 hours then night fell and we had to reduce the speed of the yacht as we could not see the waves either. The forecast was for waves bout 2m at 4 sec intervals and that was about right.

The new forecast showed us right in the red patch and it had been gusting over 40kts. There was supposed to be a calm patch at one stage but we never found it.

Syracuse

Dawn rose with our entry to Syracuse. We notified our approach into the harbour and were told to remain on the yacht and then the fun started with authorities. We had not been planning to end up in Syracuse so of course had not given them the 12 hours notice required. We wanted to get in, do the paperwork, have a rest, and clear out the next day. Not so easy. The harbour master told us what was required for the health clearance and emailed us the details. We sent the documents off to 8 email addresses!! This was by now about 8 am. Then heard no more. On querying the harbour master she told us the Health department was separate and they had no idea how long it takes. They have obviously had this problem before.

We then started to tidy up the yacht and discovered that our port Pelican Stiker wire had two broked strands. Just as well we stopped. Now looked like we would not be going to Malta and certainly not sailing. On further inspection of the yacht, we discovered that we had also cracked the area under the rear davits again. One had been mended 3 months before in Marina di Ragusa and it was not too bad but now the other was showing cracking around the base. We made the decision not to continue to Malta but to go to Marina di Ragusa and try and get the wires and damage fixed there.

We then settled in for a rest. Got up after lunch and still no emails with a clearance. Called the harbour master again and explained that we would like to leave first thing the next morning because we wanted to take the calm weather window before the next storm. She was very helpful and even suggested not getting off the boat but clearing at Pozzallo. We called them but they asked us to call Marina di Ragusa as they did not speak English well. I talked to the girls there about a marina and the situation with the authorities and that we did not need to be stuck at Pozzallo if we did leave due to the approaching storm. She got back to me and had been told that Pazzallo now comes under Syracuse so if we couldn’t get the health clearance in Syracuse it would be a problem in Pozzallo.

The good thing that came out of the conversation was that they knew an agent in Syracuse who they had used before and they might help. We then called Giorgio siracusa@luise.com at Luisa Yachtshttps://www.luise.com/italy/ and had a chat. He told us that the process was with the health department there – if we did not give 12 hours notice then they threw the file in the next day’s list so we would not get it today. Sit back and relax. In fact, we would not get it until close to lunchtime the next day – certainly not first thing in the morning. We explained our problem with the weather and trying to get away as soon as possible but it seemed nothing to do but wait.

As we were sitting on the yacht waiting we had a visit from another yacht who had been in Marina di Ragusa previously. Brad and Janet were waiting for the current weather to go through before continuing to MdR. They were good friends of Chris the Refrigeration man we had met in Malta.

The forecast for the next few days was not good as can be seen from the shots of Predict wind below. The third photo was of the gust we got in the bay the next day. It was very windy and 0.5meter swell even in the harbour. The wind got up at 4am and at 6am we got the motors on an motored into the wind to get the bridle up and then release more chain. Beside us in the anchorage, another yacht was doing the same, and ahead of us one dragged so far they had to pull their anchor right out and start again. We were in around 7m and had about 60m of chain out. We really grabbed as we let the bridle out and did not move again while we were there.

The following are some views of the harbour in Syracuse. It is a lovely old town but overshadowed by the big cruise ships. I know people love them but this one had speakers going with the exercise music and dancing most of the day and the noise was awful. It dwarfed the old town and you could see why people do not wantcruised ships in some of these old traditional towns.

Hew loved this boat below, said it really was a James Bond-style yacht – big aft deck for all the fun and games!! Plenty of room for the helicopter as well. Great name.

Other boats seen around town.

When the weather finally cleared we decided we had one afternoon to walk around town – looking at the sights as seen above, the old and the new.

Departure for Marina di Ragusa

Then next morning we decided to get up before sunrise and leave at daybreak. I think the harbour wanted us to stay. The anchor came up so far and then we found we were totally entangled in an old net that had obviously been dumped. 45 minutes later we had cut it off. the movement of the boat over the last three days as shown on the screen probably aided the entanglement. What a muddy mess!!

Finally on our way to Marina di Ragusa.

We had an uneventful trip and were happy to return to the old marina. Clean and tidy and lots of welcoming smiles. Also much warmer than Corfu and even warmer than Syracuse.

Sea trial of the rigging the next day showed no problems just a half turn needed on the side stays.

Bureaucrats

Well, we finally had the rigging in sails on and most things we knew about repaired. It was definitely time to leave. We wanted to leave the next day but the only item we hadn’t finalised was how to get the VAT back. So we left the boatyard to anchor out in Rinella Bay to sort out last few issues. We were exhausted as well and in no state to start out that night.

You may think we had left the VAT issue fairly late but this battle /discussion/ arguments had been going on for weeks!! Talk about getting the run around from government officials!!

Firstly we asked the boat yard but they said they could not offer us VAT exempt invoices. They suggested an agent who sorted it for super yachts and he said flat fee €3000 to look at it!! Then we asked the VAT office- they said only yachts run as a business could claim it back. We stayed that any foreigner leaving the EU could on departure. Their answer was not a yacht as it is not a person!! Next we tried the customs office at Msida marina – no one there but said call this number. We did so and were told he would be there soon. Nothing for half an hour so then called back and same person said sorry he is not coming in today.!! Come to our office at Grand Harbour. With yacht in Msida and fairly windy we decided to do it another day.

Next try went to Customs office at the ferry terminal in Valletta. Two chaps behind desk- I had been here before to have papers signed. Asked these chaps, they said no nothing to do with them and no one else in building could help us and to call these 3 numbers.

Depart and call the numbers got nowhere. Got interrogated as to why we should get VAT back as it was a tourist tax!! ….,,

Tried another number from the internet listing and got a really nice chap who said yes it was the right office and the other two on the desk should have done it and come in.

Hew goes over has a good chat all sorted can do it next day but you have to book yacht into marina so they can come and see all the rigging on the yacht!!

Too late that day as the Marina offices all shut. Get on the phone the next morning and start calling the marinas – all full. Finally one called back to say they coukd fit us in for 4 hours for €120!! Then Hew rang customs to tell them where we would be and … Oh no ….”we don’t go to you you come and tie up to our dock”😬😬

Cancel the marina then go and look at dock near ferry terminal finding somewhere to fit in. Finally found a spot right outside office and tied up.

Along comes a man who says “you shouldn’t be here it’s private” ???? Apparently he rents the building and that part of the pier to customs. Anyway when we told him we had been told to tie up here he laughed as if the shambles we had was normal.

Next a customs guy comes out and asks why we were there- “because one of your guys told us to!!!!”

Hew gets all the forms together and off he goes..

Two hours later he comes back with Captain Customs. Nice enough chap. Tells me he had a cousin from Australia at wedding on Saturday who raved about how good Aus was and how bad Malta was and ruined his day. Then to top it off the power in the building has been out for 3 days!!! He was still grumpy!!

Anyway after sitting on the boat and looking at all the invoices and forms he took them away to stamp them and post them to a crowd who now handles all the VAT refunds for the government. He said we may not get any back…he does not know.?

Gremlins

Left the pier and went back to Rinella Bay to tidy up the yacht to leave. The reason we weren’t going straight out was that the charts at the Nav Station were playing up again. We seemed to be losing the connection between the helm station and the nav station. Also the new toilet put in as part of the starboard aft cabin alteration was leaking!!! Hew was so happy- NOT!!

After pulling off the kitchen cupboard doors, and unplugging and plugging in all the connections again, and talking to the local expert we seemed to have settled it down enough to leave. Tied up the dingy and headed off.

Departure

Hoisted the main and the topping lift unclipped!! Luckily got it back before the pin was lost and set off. Genoa up and off on a 10kt breeze in the right direction- NE.

Through most of the first night some sailing and some motor sailing. New Iridium go working well but taking a while to get through all the intricacies. Yacht routing seems good but winds about 20 degrees off and more aft. Had to start the motors about 3 am as the wind died.

Day break and we put up the genniker and gull-winged it most of the day, a great day cruising along. Wind directly aft and amazing that the sails held so well. Catamarans are not supposed to be able to sail downwind like this!!

Gremlins continue

Then the gremlins appeared again. Starboard motor water pump leaking. Not fixable at sea. 24 volt fridge compressor pump loosing suction when boat speeds increased and the Port engine leaking oil!! Well we had a beautiful sail despite various issues.

Sailing and Weather

Change in forecast caused a slight alteration to track. Wind going west instead of east. About 5pm rolled up the gennaker, very dark clouds to the west of us looking like a squall. Rolled out the Genoa and were busy discussing reefing for the night. Fixed the reefing lines and topping lift which had come off again the previous day. Started the Radar and Doppler and west of us it was bright red! Radar works very well 10 min later lightening started , then the squall and pouring rain. First 15 min was a fun ride with full sail up 25kt wind and +13kt boat speed. Lightening all around us.

We got Genoa half reefed and rode down one side of the the front for the next 30 min. Finally it passed behind us and we watched the spectacular lightening display for the next hour as it lit up the evening sky as dusk fell. We were glad to be out of it.

Wind kept backing and eventually we gybed over onto a deep reach straight for the next way point.

Decided to recheck all the weathers we had but none mentioned thunderstorms for our area or westerlies, all were ESE to SSE. Got some good practice in on the iridium-go!!

Settled in for dinner and night shift thinking a good steady wind , but like the typical Med it died away and needed to start the motor again around 2300.

Fairly steady night motoring until about 3am when the wind and waves got up again. Now the wind was from SE and waves from South. We tacked just before I went to rest. Sea got up to about 1.5 m but short and cross seas with a very nasty short chop. Boat fell off a wave several times or got slapped from below. Very noisy. Very little we could do about it. Same conditions continue all the way until just north of Corfu with the wind rising steadily and peaking at 27 knots boat speed peaked at 14 with help from the waves.

Reefed down to 1 on main and 1 on Genoa, then again to 2 on both. Better ride and still averaging 9 knots with many brief spurts of 12kts.

Ooops

At the peak of the wind and crossed sea state I decided we needed a sandwich. Opened the large fridge door and all the cheeses and a half dozen egsgs lept out at me. Quickly shut the door and proceeded to clean smashed eggs off the floor. Obviously we have been cruising the Med too much – this fridge is not designed for a bad seaway!! Decided to not open that fridge again to get to the new bread and instead use old bread from the small fridge. Went to open that one very carefully and the entire door feel off in my hands!!! Couldn’t get it back in so yelled at Hew for some some help .Finally he heard me and came in to assist.

Got to the channel between Corfu and Albania and the wind finally calmed down. Unfortunately completely on the nose so started both engines and motor sailed the rest of the way. With Hew sleeping on the seat. You will note that we are wearing many more layers of clothing than a week ago – autumn has come!!

Arrival Albania

Arrived in Sarande at 1705, called the port and got answered by the agent who said the harbour master would be there in 30 minutes, and no marinas available due to impending storm!! Anchored in front of the beach with a couple of other yachts and the anchor seemed to have caught well.

Went ashore with passports and finalised the paperwork. Jelja from Sarande Summer tours is a great agent and lovely to see her after 2 years away. https://www.sarandasummertours.com/ Got an updated forecast which was not very worrying, in fact for Sarande only low to moderate winds but rain for the next three days. We decided that if the anchorage became untenable and we had to shift over to Corfu we would get a clearance out that night. did all the paper work then went out and had dinner. Albania was the same as previously – lovely people and simple and reasonable prices, we must come back some day and explore this country. Started raining before we got back to the yacht but still light winds.

Woke up in the morning to torrential rain and decided we should stay in bed. Next minute hit by a really strong gust and the yacht took off out to sea!!! Out into the pouring rain. Tried to re-anchor twice and then gave up – all we were doing was plowing up seagrass by the anchor load. Decided change of plan again and we should head for Corfu, two hours away.

Corfu Arrival

As we motored along the wind died and we could see the Albanian coast clearly and fairly calm. Wishing we hadn’t checked out and could stay in some of the little coves. Half way to Corfu we finally had reception with Greece again. We got a new forecast from Meteo blue and it did not look good, thunderstorms, squalls and rain for three days. Hew was trying to get hold of A1 yachting about whether we get a marina and whether they could clear us in. we had been We had been recommended them fby a friend as we had not used any in the past and had had no real issues but this time was a real test. I was steering and looking at a wind line ahead – pitch black to the south and further west of our position there was a lot of wind and waves – reassessment time. Hew got the report of no marinas available, no slots in the old harbour so we did a 180 and headed for a northern bay we had discussed as a bolt hole the night before. A good decision soon we were motoring at 8 knots and as the wind and waves caught up with us we were doing 12 kts.

Another 30 minutes and we were inside the bay anchoring in 20kts of wind. Lots of chain out and we had a really good hook in. We waited with engines going for some time to make sure we did not shift. Then settled down for the day. Shortly after we anchored the yacht in front of us dragged and you could see they had anchored on a patch of sea grass as we had in Sarande and their anchor was full. After two more goes they finally got a good spot and settled down.

The wind and rain came in patches and in between you could look around this beautiful bay in realatively calm conditions. we were really glad we had changed our mind when we did. Having internet and phone again communication was recommenced with the outside world. looks like we will be here for several days. Paperwork for Greece was finished, A1 yachting https://a1yachting.com/ were handling it all except the TEPAI which we had done on line on arrival in the bay. Now time to relax and catch up on the current blog which I wrote on a long night watch, perhaps even some of the unfinished ones. Looking at the forecast we will not see sun for at least three days.

Just before publication have had another squall of 30kts through and another yacht drag. Finally caught very close to us – then up anchored further away. I am very glad as he came in late and was too close. Looks like it may be a long night.

Departed at 1815L motored most of the way to Syracusa with little to see. Best was sunset passing the Straits of Messina with Etna in the background.

Sunset over Messina Straits and Mt Etna

Arrived Syracuse about 35 hours later at 0615L and anchored then fell asleep for several hours.

Di and Pete went into town to explore while Hew and I went off to get the Costitutio. For a change the office was tidy and organised and only took an hour during which I had to handwrite a crew arrival list which I had already typed out with identical information but not an identical form …..

Then we went back to the boat to sort out a few jobs. All met up and went for a la passeggiata (the evening stroll around town) and then dinner. Lovely evening and a great change from the day we were here last year which was cold and windy. But weather is definitely getting cooler.

Hew feeling cold and colourful

Lovely old buildings that we walked past and we also wandered up the canal in the dingy to look around.

The Paintings on the roof in every room tell a story

Next morning Di and Pete were dropped off to get a rental car and view Sicily before heading to Spain. The steps on the canal were filthy and close by the best hotel in Syracuse – so sad for a tourist town.

We departed for the last leg back to Marina Di Ragusa motor sailing into the wind 15-20kts for the first half then gradually declining wind for the last part.

Capo Murro di Porco

Arrived at 1730 feeling tired and salty. Entry seems even more silted up and now has buoys marking the main channel at the entrance. Cheerful welcome on the radio and parked next to an Australian yacht Katherine owners Lee and Andrew, friends of Rob and Virginia’s.

Quick tidy, early dinner and early night all jobs left for the next day.

On Tuesday we got ready to depart but Hew’s has bottle had been filled but was stuck on a truck that had broken down so he needed to buy a new bottle and pick his up later. Then tried to get back to boat but couldn’t get a cab as 3 cruise ships in town!! So I had to catch a cab from the rank get it over to the gas shop pick up Hew. Driver thought firstly Hew was mad to try and get anything done on a day when 3 cruise ships were in town. Secondly, he was lazy to get his wife to come and pick him up. Thirdly, Corfu was a shambles because every summer they were invaded by barbarians from the north, the same as for hundreds of years in the past- Italians, Germans, Goths, Visigoth, etc etc but now it was every summer!!!

After three days in and around the town we seemed not to have really viewed anything but liked the town.

Very glad to get out of the old town port – away from the smell of sewerage. Port employee there very friendly and helpful and site very convenient. There are big signs saying you can’t park there, then they “fine” you so they can say they told you so and you cannot then take them to court for damages( apparently as one yachtie tried to when boat was damaged in a storm).

Departed with crew for a bay on the NE side wind up but only due to last for 4 hours so ended up returning to Kouloura Bay, site of Durrell White House.

Next day went on to look at the Northern Islands. Firstly, Erikoussa – swim and lunch and a change of anchor.

Our main anchor had not been holding well since it was bent so with plenty of manpower on board we finally made the effort to dig out the secondary anchor from below the floor of the port forward hold.

In the afternoon had a good sail on to Othonoi. parked outside bay.

Locals fix paths in winter and the rain also resets them. Not allowed to build anything in the Timoni area as it has reserve status because it was an old port. Therefore no toilets and hence why the track continuing on from Port Timoni to the peak is so dirty and reeking of urine and faeces (and wet wipes thrown into bushes everywhere)…yuk.

Dingy got fixed in Lefkada but then stopped after one run soHew went to Paxos to try and fix dingy and air conditioning with no luck. Hew discovers that one of the people on the boat was on the Greece trip with us 2 years ago.

Owner of the restaurant where we are staying talked to the mechanic at Lefkada and finds that he changed stator not the CDI unit – all becomes clear with some “googling”. An induced failure due to dodgy wires caused by Croatians in Kastela tearing the engine apart! Stator fixed but not the wires so failed again….grrrrr. But we finally have an explanation.

Hew finishes accounts, I catch up on blogs, emails and I get closer to finishing a lit. review.

We revisit Arillas beach and Ammos restaurant for really good quinoa salad and Virgin Mojito.

Thursday we decide to go further on our trusty scooter and visit the “love canal”, a very busy touristy area which reminds us how lucky we are on the yacht going to secluded bays and coves. The rock is very soft in some places like mud and visitors use it to cover themselves before having a swim, as seem below. The younger crowd are all into rock jumping. Albania looms through the haze in the background and you realise again how close the two countries are and yet how far apart.

In the final few days, I take many photos of the surrounding houses and countryside to give a feeling of all the beautiful colours and peacefulness in this part of Greece.

First, we needed a place to stay with good internet!! Found one in Afionas in Corfu and they assured me the internet was good!  Next we had to deliver the boat to our friends who was going to look after it for two weeks but only had a night to change over and understand all about Eleuthera!! Thought that we would need a couple of days. The weather blew up and we could not get onto the quay side at Argostoli as Eleuthera does not handle 20kts side on to the bows in bad holding!!! So ended up anchoring at the head of the arm in Kefalonia and uplifting the captain  from the beach in the middle of the night. Nice sheltered spot. Thank goodness for google maps. Cab driver was concerned that he did not know where he was going.

Wrote a huge list of instructions. A brief run through the next morning then off we went back to the town of Lixouri to try our luck there and pick up his friends. No luck still blowing a gale and so the port let us anchor in the harbour while we picked up his friends and dropped us off.

We stayed the night in a hotel in Argostoli in case of any issues. The next morning we went for breakfast so Hew could refuel, looked around, and went to book ferries or aircraft out for Monday.

Found nothing available Monday so the option was that afternoon or Wednesday. Quickly booked flights from to Corfu the rushed back to the hotel packed our bags and off to the airport. Meanwhile I read Captain Correlli’s Mandolin again – great story especially when you are right there where it was based.

All seemed to be going well  with the yacht and so we left feeling good. Arrived Corfu at 7pm and got a taxi to our apartment in Afionas arriving there about 9pm very grateful to sit down for dinner and a drink looking out over Agios Georgios.

Arose the next  morning to a lovely day, very hot and just relaxed. Walked down to the nearby Port Timoni – a beautiful spot with and old harbour wall origins lost in time. Really rough steep track and the secondary track was covered in rubbish – not very well looked after but great spot and very popular. Very hot walk back up the hill.

Next day we got a call from the yacht saying the dinghy outboard was not going – we had not had a single issue in two years – lots of discussion ensued but in the end it would need a technician. We were trying to get through some paperwork and found the internet very slow(probably due to concrete walls of the rooms) so Hew moved to using the cafe as his base – handy as they made a good Freddo Cappuccino. Very hot in the afternoons so these turned to siesta times. 

We settle into life on land. Hired a scooter to get up and down to Georgios Beach, and  checked out a different restaurant each night and all the aspects of the sun sets in the area. Afionas is on the top of a hill above Porto Timoni and has a great view both ways.

Restaurants are many and of varied standard. Scooter allowed us to range over a wider area through the next few beaches. Noticeable on land that you do not consider from the sea is the bad standard of the roads and the amount of rubbish on the road sides. Often the roads are only one lane wide – reason for the 20k limit signs, and the  other half of the road is a huge pothole. After a couple of days we were getting used to  avoiding these or stopping if traffic was coming the other way and also avoiding the holes. 

One of our expeditions took us to the Fort Angelocastro- spectacular road to the top of the hill on the way and magnificent view NW and N of Corfu.

Agios Georgios Beach – Afionas on hill behind

Lovely Path to Castle and Old Olive

Vertical Cliff to Water

By the end of the week we were missing the yacht and got a rent-a-boat for an hour and went out around the Porto Timoni headland and out to the nearest island. Great to be at sea again. 

Meanwhile we decided that Eleuthera did not like being lent to anyone. They had had continuous little issues- some easily solvable with knowing the yacht and some not so easy. The music log on(fixed), the air conditioning(over use and lack of understanding of power draw), the dinghy motor( passed to mechanic as it had never not stopped before), toilets (lack of understanding of system), shifting winds at midnight causing immediate removal from dock to an anchorage! Lots of phone calls… 

To top the week off I got a call from home to tell me that not all  was well with the aircraft engine – more cost!! Waiting for the final assessment.

The summary of the first week ashore was availability and variety of restaurants, sunsets and  views, clear water and great beaches, pot holes and bad drivers, very hot afternoons, slow progress with the paperwork – but at least there is some.  Where we are everyone watches the sunsets and eats early so the days seem short. Breakfast late like 830-0900, a bit of work, swim and lunch late 1430-1500, siesta, sunset and dinner – usually finished by 2130!! Where has all the time gone.

Hoping the the next week will be more productive and Eleuthera less temperamental.

Usual boat cleaning and washing jobs and lovely Lazure marina so no hurray. Fuel filter change on engine, was the decks , clean the whole inside, get rid of surplus rubbish and even treated ourselves to a new Greek Cruising Guide. Tracks all set up and Pre-booked the fuel for 1100 the next day on departure and all was looking good.

Sunday started clear beautiful day. We wandered up to the fuel dock and were told they were running about 15mins late. I went into clear with harbour master- knowing they had made a mistake on the document they issued with names. One of helpers came out took me in in the golf cart and looked at the document but was more worried about the date as we had until 1430 to leave Montenegro or be fined. Anyway document stamped and departure document issued and we were ushered off Q dock to hang around until we could get on the fuel doc. Both of us jumped in to have a swim as we drifted around.

Finally got on the fuel dock at 1145 and started refuelling. Had turned all electronics off as requested and signed all the forms. Fuelling was slow as uplifted 1180litres and tanks are slow to balance.

On the tax paid section of the dock I saw a Cook Islands flag so went over to have a chat to the two guys on a big yacht. Asked where they were from? The owner was Russians, the yacht is berthed in Montenegro and it is flagged for the Cook Islands!!!!! I had to smile. He said he would love to get there one day….

Got the fuel all on and I went off to pay and do more paperwork. 11 sheets of same fuel form!!! Fuel guys were very friendly and helpful. Got through all forms done, back to harbour master and customs and police. Received all the stamps and finally off the dock at 1415.

Everyone keen to get rid of us as big queues for the fuel dock and they only book tax free fuel – the rest have to wait. As we powered up the instruments and pushed off the screens seemed a bit slow – didn’t think much of it … 5 min later still no #1 and no #3. Closer look showed no GPS on #2.

By this time cruising down the narrows towards the sea. Stay or go??? Being optimists we opened the navionics on the iPads checked the positions and decided to keep going and fix everything on the way!!! Trying to navigate out, set up iPads, fix screens- shambles. End result was we could not download the full raymarine manual while still in Montenegrin waters so decided easier to leave everything as it was till Greece. Finally managed to get most info on #2 but it would not pick up a GPS. Luckily navionics now includes AIS on iPads so with the maps and AIS on iPads and the radar on the #2 screen and GPS on basic instruments we continued through the night.

Both of us were thinking we will get to Greece and all will be well……

Next morning wind was up for a while and had a good sail but then it died so we decided to try the spinnaker out. All went up ok but way too small – not full hoist 2m short at top and at least 2 m at the bottom. Beautiful colours but not much use- genniker is bigger. What to do????

Get to Corfu port about 1700 decided to go to Comnercial port as close to customs. Big mistake. Although we had read that it could have wake from ferries and be rough we had no idea how bad the condition of the wharf was- very very rough broken concrete. Anyway decided I would jump off and Hew back away from wall as it would rip the fender sand covers to shreds. Thought an hour should do.

Went to the port office who looked at Tepai and payment sent me on to customs. Meanwhile they wanted Hew out of harbour as ferry coming so he headed off outside breakwater. 2.5 hours later customs saw me, then decided they couldn’t accept proof of payment as the document hadn’t updated!!!! Customs are there for ferries, cruise ships and super yachts as lastly private small vessels. They are annoyed at having to handle the Tepai and the transit logs. They said they had not been told by the port authorities that I was coming. Not happy. They told me to come back the next day!!!

I got back to the yacht after being away 3 hours. Hew had come back to wall after 90 mins and although helped by one of the port police the fenders were a mess. We departed for the old harbour. Tied up went in for dinner quickly and crashed. After very little sleep in 30 hours I was shattered.€50 for berth in old port.

Interesting boat next door.

Next morning I had been told to be there at 10. Got on bike and cycled away leaving Hew to try and contact Ray marine agent- who was not really interested!! Got to port authority again And asked if they could check Tepai payments before I went to customs but I was told that they only check documents and stamps – can’t see system.

I had checked with my bank and the payment had gone but the Tepai form had locked me out!!! Got to customs by 1030 and told to wait outside until 1200. Went to check and one girl finally went and asked inside. Managed to get through the door and sit down to wait. Then was told they had no time till after 1500 . When I said I had already spent 5 hours over two days waiting for them and could the guarantee the time at 1500 they looked at the schedule of ferries and started to say no. I was getting really fed up and then one of them agreed to do the paperwork. One hour later and much grumbling and stamping I had the documents. They had handwritten out all the information for the transit log that I had already entered in the electronic system for the Tepai. They also got another guy to come and look up my payment who then used his phone to take a photo off the screen to prove they had checked!! They could not believe the guys the night before had not done the paperwork.

Then back to port authority so they can check the same papers and enter it in their register!!!! €335 later I was on my way with a caution to come back to get stamped out of Corfu!!!!! Grrrrrr at this stage I was thinking I hate Greece and why did we come here. Or perhaps I should just say Corfu.

Hew had better luck. Had not been able to convince the Raymarine guy to come even though all gear under a full warranty but he had managed to download the full manual and achieved a factory reset on three screens after much button pushing and powering on and off.

Left the old port for a nice bay to the south for a lovely swim and glass or many of Prosecco while Hew tried to convince me to get my sense of humour back. Had a swim in the middle of the night and the water temperature was beautiful 28deg- like silk.

Next morning we decided to go back get signed out, pick up a SIM card for Greece, and some boat bits at chandlery. Hew was dead against checking out but since I had been specifically warned I felt I should.

I walked into the door of the port office and saw 6 different sets of yachties and thought – oh dear – here goes…. I stuck my head into the office I had been in the night before and the lady who did not speak english recognised me and said to wait while she found the right person. I was out in under 15 mins. Another lady told me she was trying to sell a boat and it was taking her days to get the paper work. Previous day a guy has told me he had taken the whole day walking around trying to get all the stamps. The process is a bureaucratic nightmare, colossal waste of time and money . Apparently EU flagged boats can do it in one of the marinas but non-EU can’t. The whole time I was in the port office in the morning the only words spoken by staff were- wait!, forms!, – no please, thank you …….. what ever. What has happened to “visitors are welcome”. The whole process and reasons needs to be looked at.

Left that afternoon for another bay down the coast. Settled in with Hew fixing 3rd toilet for the trip and me trying to get the Greek SIM card to work. Hew won and I failed. In process I made the problem worse – then we remembered that last year we needed at PC laptop to fix it with an internet cable. Not a Mac!!!!

Decided to sleep on it. Woke in the morning to a foggy world and flat calm.

Decided it is easier to have a small yacht with no electronics/ internet / AIS/ radios – then you do not waste time with the electronics and once out of port you disappear!! Oh for the simple life.

Off now to Kefalonia – love the hydrofoils to Sarande- very smoky.

Straight forward trip down the coast and stopped for the night st the southern end of Corfu

Next stop Bay at the northern end o Kefalonia. Very pleasant but by the morning the wind was getting up so we thought we would make straight for Argostoli.

Home of “Captain Corelli’s Mandolin” and a great reason to re read the book. Makes so much more sense when you are in Greece and all the anecdotes about the locals. I made Hew re read it and he was in tears over the funny bits. Of course it is a very sad testimony on the idiocy of mankind and wars as well.

Saw a great pod of dolphins – 7- mother and baby and juveniles all playing in the bow wave. Great to see

Argostoli was blowing 20g25 got into dock but too beam on for our bows and holding no good so set sail for North end of arm for a couple of days cleaning, clearing up and tidying up. Found a very sheltered spot under the cliffs and both blue muscles and oysters in the shallows. We passed both Oyster and mussel farms mid way to the bay. Initially tied to the cliff but again too much beam wind pressure from guts so end just anchoring out and settled down for two days of windy weather. Checked out the local cuisine….

The next two weeks were to be on dry land. https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/08/dry-land-for-two-weeks/