The weather forecast in Corfu stayed the same for three days – thunderstorms and wind.

Gouvia Marina

On the morning of the third day, we decided to make a break for it and go to Gouvia even if we had to anchor in the bay while we got the engine pump fixed. A friend had given us the name of some agents at A1 yachting and we called them to see if they could handle our entry into Greece to save us from going into town. They came back shortly after and although the marina had told us there were no berths when we called they had managed to find one for us.

We cruised down the coast which is beautiful and green and such a change after Malta which is all brown, dry, and rocky.

Video …

Corfu was very busy with charter boats going in and out of the marina, but they were having to wait for slots in their own area and we went in and were handled almost immediately.

The engineers arrived very quickly and took the pump away to be fixed. Next, we wandered up to the office of A1 yachting and discovered that the immigration police who were in the building next door were not happy with our documents. They could not find the exit stamp for Malta but they did find the entry stamp for Italy and it was over 90 days old. According to our passports, we had been nowhere else. Here we go again. There was much discussion on the ins and outs of Schengen and the individual countries’ agreements. In the end, it came down to the fact that we should have been stamped in each country so we could count the day’s agreement separately from the Schengen days.

Of course, leaving malta they treated us as crew on a yacht. Albania had its own system and stamped papers, not passports – mainly for the yacht requirements. Then the Greek authorities were treating us as passengers but decided in the final stages we should be crew. In the end, all the documents were signed and stamped and we were legitimate.

The next day the pump came back and we were all set to leave. We picked up some fuel at the fuel dock – last visited two years ago and ago. Then we set off with a forecast that would give us 30% on a tight reach than all the rest on an easy reach to Malta at about 15kts. Sounded great. As you can see from the photo – the weather was not that warm – not the Mediterranean we were used to.

Stormy Passage

We departed down the east coast hoping for a quick trip. After passing Corfu town the wind was dead on the nose again – seems to happen to us all the time. The wind was already averaging 22kts from the South rather than SW and the sea was rough already 1-2m and short. Rather than bashing into all the way on the motor we decided to tack and motor sail to the end of Corfu.

We reached the end of Corfu late in the day and turned right slightly to track for Malta. This did not seem to help as we turned right so did the wind. The wind was hard on so we motor sailed. The forecast was ok but windy. During the night the wind increased and so did the seas. At one point we were making 3.5kts Speed over the ground – depressing.

The second afternoon we were down to 3 reefs and no genoa – or now and then a handkerchief out. Making 6.5 knots and still motor sailing as the wind was so far forward. We were running forecasts every 6 hours and decided if the wind got no better we were going to head for Syracuse and not Malta and have a rest. We were running about 6 hours on ETA.

As the evening approached the wind increased from the NW we were hand-sailing rather than on autopilot which could not see the approaching waves and we had been dropping off some of the big waves. Still doing 6.5 knots but very rough. We had a good sail for about 3 hours then night fell and we had to reduce the speed of the yacht as we could not see the waves either. The forecast was for waves bout 2m at 4 sec intervals and that was about right.

The new forecast showed us right in the red patch and it had been gusting over 40kts. There was supposed to be a calm patch at one stage but we never found it.

Syracuse

Dawn rose with our entry to Syracuse. We notified our approach into the harbour and were told to remain on the yacht and then the fun started with authorities. We had not been planning to end up in Syracuse so of course had not given them the 12 hours notice required. We wanted to get in, do the paperwork, have a rest, and clear out the next day. Not so easy. The harbour master told us what was required for the health clearance and emailed us the details. We sent the documents off to 8 email addresses!! This was by now about 8 am. Then heard no more. On querying the harbour master she told us the Health department was separate and they had no idea how long it takes. They have obviously had this problem before.

We then started to tidy up the yacht and discovered that our port Pelican Stiker wire had two broked strands. Just as well we stopped. Now looked like we would not be going to Malta and certainly not sailing. On further inspection of the yacht, we discovered that we had also cracked the area under the rear davits again. One had been mended 3 months before in Marina di Ragusa and it was not too bad but now the other was showing cracking around the base. We made the decision not to continue to Malta but to go to Marina di Ragusa and try and get the wires and damage fixed there.

We then settled in for a rest. Got up after lunch and still no emails with a clearance. Called the harbour master again and explained that we would like to leave first thing the next morning because we wanted to take the calm weather window before the next storm. She was very helpful and even suggested not getting off the boat but clearing at Pozzallo. We called them but they asked us to call Marina di Ragusa as they did not speak English well. I talked to the girls there about a marina and the situation with the authorities and that we did not need to be stuck at Pozzallo if we did leave due to the approaching storm. She got back to me and had been told that Pazzallo now comes under Syracuse so if we couldn’t get the health clearance in Syracuse it would be a problem in Pozzallo.

The good thing that came out of the conversation was that they knew an agent in Syracuse who they had used before and they might help. We then called Giorgio siracusa@luise.com at Luisa Yachtshttps://www.luise.com/italy/ and had a chat. He told us that the process was with the health department there – if we did not give 12 hours notice then they threw the file in the next day’s list so we would not get it today. Sit back and relax. In fact, we would not get it until close to lunchtime the next day – certainly not first thing in the morning. We explained our problem with the weather and trying to get away as soon as possible but it seemed nothing to do but wait.

As we were sitting on the yacht waiting we had a visit from another yacht who had been in Marina di Ragusa previously. Brad and Janet were waiting for the current weather to go through before continuing to MdR. They were good friends of Chris the Refrigeration man we had met in Malta.

The forecast for the next few days was not good as can be seen from the shots of Predict wind below. The third photo was of the gust we got in the bay the next day. It was very windy and 0.5meter swell even in the harbour. The wind got up at 4am and at 6am we got the motors on an motored into the wind to get the bridle up and then release more chain. Beside us in the anchorage, another yacht was doing the same, and ahead of us one dragged so far they had to pull their anchor right out and start again. We were in around 7m and had about 60m of chain out. We really grabbed as we let the bridle out and did not move again while we were there.

The following are some views of the harbour in Syracuse. It is a lovely old town but overshadowed by the big cruise ships. I know people love them but this one had speakers going with the exercise music and dancing most of the day and the noise was awful. It dwarfed the old town and you could see why people do not wantcruised ships in some of these old traditional towns.

Hew loved this boat below, said it really was a James Bond-style yacht – big aft deck for all the fun and games!! Plenty of room for the helicopter as well. Great name.

Other boats seen around town.

When the weather finally cleared we decided we had one afternoon to walk around town – looking at the sights as seen above, the old and the new.

Departure for Marina di Ragusa

Then next morning we decided to get up before sunrise and leave at daybreak. I think the harbour wanted us to stay. The anchor came up so far and then we found we were totally entangled in an old net that had obviously been dumped. 45 minutes later we had cut it off. the movement of the boat over the last three days as shown on the screen probably aided the entanglement. What a muddy mess!!

Finally on our way to Marina di Ragusa.

We had an uneventful trip and were happy to return to the old marina. Clean and tidy and lots of welcoming smiles. Also much warmer than Corfu and even warmer than Syracuse.

Sea trial of the rigging the next day showed no problems just a half turn needed on the side stays.

Bureaucrats

Well, we finally had the rigging in sails on and most things we knew about repaired. It was definitely time to leave. We wanted to leave the next day but the only item we hadn’t finalised was how to get the VAT back. So we left the boatyard to anchor out in Rinella Bay to sort out last few issues. We were exhausted as well and in no state to start out that night.

You may think we had left the VAT issue fairly late but this battle /discussion/ arguments had been going on for weeks!! Talk about getting the run around from government officials!!

Firstly we asked the boat yard but they said they could not offer us VAT exempt invoices. They suggested an agent who sorted it for super yachts and he said flat fee €3000 to look at it!! Then we asked the VAT office- they said only yachts run as a business could claim it back. We stayed that any foreigner leaving the EU could on departure. Their answer was not a yacht as it is not a person!! Next we tried the customs office at Msida marina – no one there but said call this number. We did so and were told he would be there soon. Nothing for half an hour so then called back and same person said sorry he is not coming in today.!! Come to our office at Grand Harbour. With yacht in Msida and fairly windy we decided to do it another day.

Next try went to Customs office at the ferry terminal in Valletta. Two chaps behind desk- I had been here before to have papers signed. Asked these chaps, they said no nothing to do with them and no one else in building could help us and to call these 3 numbers.

Depart and call the numbers got nowhere. Got interrogated as to why we should get VAT back as it was a tourist tax!! ….,,

Tried another number from the internet listing and got a really nice chap who said yes it was the right office and the other two on the desk should have done it and come in.

Hew goes over has a good chat all sorted can do it next day but you have to book yacht into marina so they can come and see all the rigging on the yacht!!

Too late that day as the Marina offices all shut. Get on the phone the next morning and start calling the marinas – all full. Finally one called back to say they coukd fit us in for 4 hours for €120!! Then Hew rang customs to tell them where we would be and … Oh no ….”we don’t go to you you come and tie up to our dock”😬😬

Cancel the marina then go and look at dock near ferry terminal finding somewhere to fit in. Finally found a spot right outside office and tied up.

Along comes a man who says “you shouldn’t be here it’s private” ???? Apparently he rents the building and that part of the pier to customs. Anyway when we told him we had been told to tie up here he laughed as if the shambles we had was normal.

Next a customs guy comes out and asks why we were there- “because one of your guys told us to!!!!”

Hew gets all the forms together and off he goes..

Two hours later he comes back with Captain Customs. Nice enough chap. Tells me he had a cousin from Australia at wedding on Saturday who raved about how good Aus was and how bad Malta was and ruined his day. Then to top it off the power in the building has been out for 3 days!!! He was still grumpy!!

Anyway after sitting on the boat and looking at all the invoices and forms he took them away to stamp them and post them to a crowd who now handles all the VAT refunds for the government. He said we may not get any back…he does not know.?

Gremlins

Left the pier and went back to Rinella Bay to tidy up the yacht to leave. The reason we weren’t going straight out was that the charts at the Nav Station were playing up again. We seemed to be losing the connection between the helm station and the nav station. Also the new toilet put in as part of the starboard aft cabin alteration was leaking!!! Hew was so happy- NOT!!

After pulling off the kitchen cupboard doors, and unplugging and plugging in all the connections again, and talking to the local expert we seemed to have settled it down enough to leave. Tied up the dingy and headed off.

Departure

Hoisted the main and the topping lift unclipped!! Luckily got it back before the pin was lost and set off. Genoa up and off on a 10kt breeze in the right direction- NE.

Through most of the first night some sailing and some motor sailing. New Iridium go working well but taking a while to get through all the intricacies. Yacht routing seems good but winds about 20 degrees off and more aft. Had to start the motors about 3 am as the wind died.

Day break and we put up the genniker and gull-winged it most of the day, a great day cruising along. Wind directly aft and amazing that the sails held so well. Catamarans are not supposed to be able to sail downwind like this!!

Gremlins continue

Then the gremlins appeared again. Starboard motor water pump leaking. Not fixable at sea. 24 volt fridge compressor pump loosing suction when boat speeds increased and the Port engine leaking oil!! Well we had a beautiful sail despite various issues.

Sailing and Weather

Change in forecast caused a slight alteration to track. Wind going west instead of east. About 5pm rolled up the gennaker, very dark clouds to the west of us looking like a squall. Rolled out the Genoa and were busy discussing reefing for the night. Fixed the reefing lines and topping lift which had come off again the previous day. Started the Radar and Doppler and west of us it was bright red! Radar works very well 10 min later lightening started , then the squall and pouring rain. First 15 min was a fun ride with full sail up 25kt wind and +13kt boat speed. Lightening all around us.

We got Genoa half reefed and rode down one side of the the front for the next 30 min. Finally it passed behind us and we watched the spectacular lightening display for the next hour as it lit up the evening sky as dusk fell. We were glad to be out of it.

Wind kept backing and eventually we gybed over onto a deep reach straight for the next way point.

Decided to recheck all the weathers we had but none mentioned thunderstorms for our area or westerlies, all were ESE to SSE. Got some good practice in on the iridium-go!!

Settled in for dinner and night shift thinking a good steady wind , but like the typical Med it died away and needed to start the motor again around 2300.

Fairly steady night motoring until about 3am when the wind and waves got up again. Now the wind was from SE and waves from South. We tacked just before I went to rest. Sea got up to about 1.5 m but short and cross seas with a very nasty short chop. Boat fell off a wave several times or got slapped from below. Very noisy. Very little we could do about it. Same conditions continue all the way until just north of Corfu with the wind rising steadily and peaking at 27 knots boat speed peaked at 14 with help from the waves.

Reefed down to 1 on main and 1 on Genoa, then again to 2 on both. Better ride and still averaging 9 knots with many brief spurts of 12kts.

Ooops

At the peak of the wind and crossed sea state I decided we needed a sandwich. Opened the large fridge door and all the cheeses and a half dozen egsgs lept out at me. Quickly shut the door and proceeded to clean smashed eggs off the floor. Obviously we have been cruising the Med too much – this fridge is not designed for a bad seaway!! Decided to not open that fridge again to get to the new bread and instead use old bread from the small fridge. Went to open that one very carefully and the entire door feel off in my hands!!! Couldn’t get it back in so yelled at Hew for some some help .Finally he heard me and came in to assist.

Got to the channel between Corfu and Albania and the wind finally calmed down. Unfortunately completely on the nose so started both engines and motor sailed the rest of the way. With Hew sleeping on the seat. You will note that we are wearing many more layers of clothing than a week ago – autumn has come!!

Arrival Albania

Arrived in Sarande at 1705, called the port and got answered by the agent who said the harbour master would be there in 30 minutes, and no marinas available due to impending storm!! Anchored in front of the beach with a couple of other yachts and the anchor seemed to have caught well.

Went ashore with passports and finalised the paperwork. Jelja from Sarande Summer tours is a great agent and lovely to see her after 2 years away. https://www.sarandasummertours.com/ Got an updated forecast which was not very worrying, in fact for Sarande only low to moderate winds but rain for the next three days. We decided that if the anchorage became untenable and we had to shift over to Corfu we would get a clearance out that night. did all the paper work then went out and had dinner. Albania was the same as previously – lovely people and simple and reasonable prices, we must come back some day and explore this country. Started raining before we got back to the yacht but still light winds.

Woke up in the morning to torrential rain and decided we should stay in bed. Next minute hit by a really strong gust and the yacht took off out to sea!!! Out into the pouring rain. Tried to re-anchor twice and then gave up – all we were doing was plowing up seagrass by the anchor load. Decided change of plan again and we should head for Corfu, two hours away.

Corfu Arrival

As we motored along the wind died and we could see the Albanian coast clearly and fairly calm. Wishing we hadn’t checked out and could stay in some of the little coves. Half way to Corfu we finally had reception with Greece again. We got a new forecast from Meteo blue and it did not look good, thunderstorms, squalls and rain for three days. Hew was trying to get hold of A1 yachting about whether we get a marina and whether they could clear us in. we had been We had been recommended them fby a friend as we had not used any in the past and had had no real issues but this time was a real test. I was steering and looking at a wind line ahead – pitch black to the south and further west of our position there was a lot of wind and waves – reassessment time. Hew got the report of no marinas available, no slots in the old harbour so we did a 180 and headed for a northern bay we had discussed as a bolt hole the night before. A good decision soon we were motoring at 8 knots and as the wind and waves caught up with us we were doing 12 kts.

Another 30 minutes and we were inside the bay anchoring in 20kts of wind. Lots of chain out and we had a really good hook in. We waited with engines going for some time to make sure we did not shift. Then settled down for the day. Shortly after we anchored the yacht in front of us dragged and you could see they had anchored on a patch of sea grass as we had in Sarande and their anchor was full. After two more goes they finally got a good spot and settled down.

The wind and rain came in patches and in between you could look around this beautiful bay in realatively calm conditions. we were really glad we had changed our mind when we did. Having internet and phone again communication was recommenced with the outside world. looks like we will be here for several days. Paperwork for Greece was finished, A1 yachting https://a1yachting.com/ were handling it all except the TEPAI which we had done on line on arrival in the bay. Now time to relax and catch up on the current blog which I wrote on a long night watch, perhaps even some of the unfinished ones. Looking at the forecast we will not see sun for at least three days.

Just before publication have had another squall of 30kts through and another yacht drag. Finally caught very close to us – then up anchored further away. I am very glad as he came in late and was too close. Looks like it may be a long night.

The first day we decided to take a taxi to the monastery and then walk to the town of Anogi to see the house and then on down Kioni village. Walk- Monastery to Agoni then Kioni.

Unfortunately, the caretaker who Di came to see was in Vathi for the day. But we had a walk around before starting on the track. The bell tower of the monastery was further up the hill in amongst a cluster of aerials – the old and the new – probably a way to make money for the church.

Then it was off to walk the track which Di had looked up and it said it was an “easy track”. It may have been for goats but a bit more ruggard and uphill than we were expecting. Spectacular views through to the south over Vathy and towards Kefalonia. Passed a few goats in the second half of the track, but no walkers.

Once we reached the village we discovered there was no food as the cafe was catering for a party that night – so coffees and ice cream only. After a brief stop, we headed off to look at the house as it had been pointed out by the taxi driver and when Di tried to get more information at the cafe we found the taxi driver’s husband there drinking coffee with his friends. We learnt that the man who had just died, had a brother who had died previously, and so there were no living relations there – they were in NZ and Australia.

Hew and I headed off downhill and Pete opted for a taxi, while Di wanted to idle along at her own speed. The track down was for the most part much better than the part form the Monastery to Anogi with only a rough bit in the middle, and also a large olive grove. There was also a little chapel that was very cute about halfway down the hill.

We got back to Kioni late in the day so decided to stay the night.

Next day it was off to Paxos via Lefkas Canal which we reached at 1100 right in time for the opening on the hour.

The next day was off to Paxos where we stayed at Mongonisi Bay again since we had liked the anchorage so much the first time. We again tried for the quayside but the wind was wrong so anchored on the other side of the bay against the cliffs with five other catamarans – three owned by New Zealanders, us, “Site Office” a lagoon sailing catamaran and “Oscar” – leopard power cat, plus one by an American and one by a French Fountain Pajot ower. Mongonissi Bay Bar was shutting that weekend – the end of the season, and the other cafe was only going for two more weeks. Made us realise that the cruising was really getting close to the end.

The next morning we sailed past the main town of Gaios and there were only three yachts at the quayside whereas a month ago it had been full with over 50 yachts – huge change.

Next Stop Corfu.

Departed at 1815L motored most of the way to Syracusa with little to see. Best was sunset passing the Straits of Messina with Etna in the background.

Sunset over Messina Straits and Mt Etna

Arrived Syracuse about 35 hours later at 0615L and anchored then fell asleep for several hours.

Di and Pete went into town to explore while Hew and I went off to get the Costitutio. For a change the office was tidy and organised and only took an hour during which I had to handwrite a crew arrival list which I had already typed out with identical information but not an identical form …..

Then we went back to the boat to sort out a few jobs. All met up and went for a la passeggiata (the evening stroll around town) and then dinner. Lovely evening and a great change from the day we were here last year which was cold and windy. But weather is definitely getting cooler.

Hew feeling cold and colourful

Lovely old buildings that we walked past and we also wandered up the canal in the dingy to look around.

The Paintings on the roof in every room tell a story

Next morning Di and Pete were dropped off to get a rental car and view Sicily before heading to Spain. The steps on the canal were filthy and close by the best hotel in Syracuse – so sad for a tourist town.

We departed for the last leg back to Marina Di Ragusa motor sailing into the wind 15-20kts for the first half then gradually declining wind for the last part.

Capo Murro di Porco

Arrived at 1730 feeling tired and salty. Entry seems even more silted up and now has buoys marking the main channel at the entrance. Cheerful welcome on the radio and parked next to an Australian yacht Katherine owners Lee and Andrew, friends of Rob and Virginia’s.

Quick tidy, early dinner and early night all jobs left for the next day.

We had a good sail north with the crew really enjoying themselves with a good wind.

In Poros on the way north and we anchored quite close to the ferry terminal and then the anchored dragged slightly when the wind reversed in the middle of the night. We would not want to be any closer.!!

The next stop was Effimia – a great little town.

After the windy ride, there was a little shopping and a relaxing night. The other option was Sami but the wind was blowing from the wrong direction and so Effimia it was.

We wanted to spend a day on land and visit the famous Melassani Lake caves where the water crosses from one side of the island to the other – Argostoli to Sami.

Because there were busloads of tourist we first went to the Drogarati stalactite caves which were good to see though only the main cavern was open.

We also convinced to go to a children’s zoo which had all the stories of Odysseus – even a trojan horse – did not rate for adults!!

We were also going to visit the Naval Museum( which was supposed to be very good), but ran out of time so next stop was the Melanisi Cave. It was very beautiful and peaceful but very touristy – more so than anywhere else we had seen in the Greek islands so far. Unfortunately the guides knew little of the mechanics or the geology of the phenomenon. The inside temperature was much cooler than outside so nice on a warm day.

A well earned dinner. 

The next stop on the plan was Ithaca.

Ithaca – East Coast – Marmakas – north of Frikes. We thought it looked perfect for an anchorage but as normal the wind changed in the middle of the night and it was not as peaceful. the little church on the island was great with its own mini grottos.

The next day it was up early and on to the west coast of Meganisi which has one of the more famous grottos. This time the story was that a Greek submarine hid in the big cave during WWII – not sure but one of the caves at least is big enough( deep and wide) but shallow and not as interesting as some of the others we had seen. Last chance at cave diving for some of the crew.

The  first nights anchorage on Meganisi was  at  Abelake Bay and the second night at Port Atherinos. Both on the northern coast which is very pretty and filled with lots of places to park. Here we came across SV Katherine – friends of Rob and Virginia’s.

Early the second day we visited Scorpios Island which is actually two islands previously owned by Onassis and has a beach house that Jackie Kennedy used when she was there. He left it to the Greek government but his daughter has currently rented it out to a Russian Princess. Very beautiful little island but heavily guarded.

The last stop was Fiskardo and in the morning Mark, Barb, Chris and Virginia all went around to the cave that Mark had found on the way south when we were last in Fiskardo. It was huge and on further examination, we decided it was an old white clay mine. For some reason, it was now deserted.

The last night for the group of eight was at Fiskardo.

Rob, Virginia, Chris, and Mark all departed by taxi the next morning for Argostoli airport.

These 10 days with eight onboard have been really interesting. All eight are sailors and all enjoy sailing and boating and swimming and all able and willing to help. It has been a very social time. Many people have asked how we could cope with so many, but when everyone helps and is keen and enthusiastic it is easy.

Rob and Virginia were our next guests and since they arrived late in the day we stayed at Agia Pelagia and all went out for dinner in the nearby taverna under a windmill. A beautiful evening to welcome them onto the yacht.

The next day it was off to Zakynthos and the famous Shipwreck Beach – a must-see on all the Greece travel guides. Well, the beach and cove are beautiful, it has spectacular cliffs and a cave to swim through, but it is swarming with visitors – thousands each day coming in ferry loads of over 200 a time!!!! Ourselves and the other yachts all got in early and then you could see the motorboats coming down the coast with their wakes – ferries of all sizes, and the big ones have their own spot on the bach. There is a roped-off area so you can sit down if you want to! the bigger ferries all feel they have to blow their horns going in and out!! The chaos and noise are hard to describe. Private boats coming squeeze in where they can on one side – some far too close to others and the ferries hoot at anyone they think is in their way – even if they are not!! I have tried to capture it all below but probably should have taken a video.

From there we slowly meandered our way down the west coast of Zakynthos looking at all the lovely inlets and beaches for those above the water.

All the great caves for those in the water. Many of the caves have names e.g. Heart Cave, Poseidon’s Face, Secret blue cave. The above water crew often got as beautiful colours as the swimmers. The swimmers could have spent all day going down the coast and go back again – it was great.

The yacht crew had to keep an eye when picking us up as we could be in 15 m of water and then suddenly there would be a pinnacle. This one was just outside of one of the cave complexes in the gap between an island and the mainland.

We looked into Porto Vromi but too full, then we pulled into the north inlet of a tiny harbour of Porto Steniti for lunch, tour boats were dropping people off here but not so many. Beautifully clear water.

Following lunch, we also tried to stop for a swim in Porto Limnionas but full of people and although two inlets there it was full of swimmers and roped off below the taverna so more set up for land swimmers than yachts. Where the was space it was too deep.

The final cave swim for the day was in the south side thorough one cave and then back through another for Barb and Di.

We missed the tiny Korakonsi port and its cave as it was getting late in the day.

That night we stopped at the edge of the Marine Park at the southern end of Zakynthos, near Keri and hoped to see some turtles but didn’t see any – they seem very shy.

Next morning it was off to Kefalonia east coast on the way north again.

Nice sail from Paxos with NW 10-15kts. Dropped sails before entering channel as Boeing good 15kts and aft quartering sea. We were going to stop at Preveza but Grey and very windy so continued on around the first headland to a sheltered bay, Panagia Vonitsa. The land all-around was much lower and flatter than we had seen previously and very little cultivation. The hills only appearing in the far distance.

The Ambracian Gulf is supposedly famous for its variety of birdlife, rare pelicans, turtles, and bottle-nosed dolphins but we didn’t see any. We needed more time and dingy trips to shallow areas. 

The wind changed to NE G20 early evening but good anchorage and calm in the morning. Sea is full of small sea urchins snot 1-2cm wide. Also large balls of tiny fish.

In the morning Jo decided to walk from the bay to the town and we motored over to town of Vonitsa in the morning to visit the castle.

The Vonitsa castle which has been owned and built by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans at various stages as they fought for it over and over again. The first recorded town there was in the 10th century. Very interesting, so much history, free with no information but run-down, quite sad, just another Greek ruin! Great views.

Girl on the gate had a 4-week old cat with her for company. Hew decided Hew should show it some attention.

The town was well kept and several nice buildings, fancy gates, fences, and balconies. Every town has its own personality if it is older, most of the newer ones seem to have lost the art of individuality.

That night we went to the other side of the Gulf to have a look and anchored at Menidi for the night but did not go ashore. Many tavernas on the waterfront. These photographs are from the paddleboard.

The next day set out back to Preveza and on to the Lefkada Canal.

We were to pick up Di and Pete the following day and since it was very windy not a great forecast and the marina at nd wall at Lefkada were full. So we motored down to Nydri and anchored far into the big bay along with many others. We stayed the night and visited the tavernas. The water was full of jellyfish, they are harmless and quite beautiful.

The bay we really liked called Tranquil Bay was full but in the morning we shifted back there as closer to the town to pick up and go grocery shopping.

Nydri is a good little town and great bottle store/bar combined which Pete and Di checked out when we were shopping for stores.

The large bay to the south is full of yacht wrecks of all sizes and others just falling apart on the moorings. Was chatting to one guy and he says people come and leave them in the sheltered bay then don’t come back. One guy had died, others had lost interest, some had sunk on their anchors. He had just bought a small one about 30′ for €1000, was going to fix it up over winter then go sail – a great idea. The photos are only a very small sample of all the yachts there.

After collecting Di and Pete we set off in the direction of Kefalonia as we were due to drop one off and collect two more in three days.

The first stop was Fiskcardo where we anchored two bays down from the town at Foki Beach as the town and harbour were full. It was a great choice and had a cave that Jo and Mark explored the next day but the rest of us had to wait for the next trip that way.

Next stop was one night at Poros. On the way down we passed the coast guard parking bay just south of Foki Bay. We did not go ashore due to late in the day and windy. Very impressive gorge next to the town. We were still undecided about the parking area for the following night due to forecast for high NW and from past experience, we knew that Argostoli would be horrible.

Next day we decided to consider Agia Pelagia marina which is just off the southern end of the airport. It was built 12 years ago but never finished. Very limited parking but sheltered in northerlies and we could go alongside the pier. Great spot. Only one other boat came in after us and we got talking to one of the permanent residents who told us he had had free parking for 12 years as they couldn’t sort out who should be in charge since it was never finished. Mostly fishing boats but the Guardia di Finanza had used it in the past to drop off immigrants and leave them on the building there for the Greeks to sort out.

Jo left us at this point we waited for Virginia and Rob who had arrived on the aircraft that Jo was flying out on.

Stuart, Mark, Chris, Jo and I had a fantastic time diving and exploring along the coast honing our freediving skills.

Some caves are shallow and others are very high and very deep.

Some caves are white or grey and others are beautiful colours,

The bigger caves are often called grottoes and invaded by the tourist boats – the bigger ones having no consideration at all for private boats or swimmers.

The many caves, arches, and underwater bridges around the eastern side of Antipaxos provided endless amusement and challenge for the swimmers. The on-water crew doing their own exploration in the above water caves.

A sample of views from the RIB. Some amazing rock formations and also black glass (obsidian) on the soft white rock in places. Lots of different strata in the cliffs.

There were some beautiful beaches but the tourist ferry was close behind us – dropping off and passing through so we didn’t go in close.

After a day of swimming, we anchored quayside in Mongonisi Bay – great spot. When Mark enquired if a 2* Metaxa Brandy was available the waitress offered him petrol from her motorbike as a viable alternative.

There is a tiny cove before Mongonisi bay that you can anchor in and is a favourite of day boats – the day we went through there was a wedding going on in the chapel. The island is separated by a very narrow channel from the main island but is fine for small boats.

Since Nassos harbour was full we anchored just down the coast and took the rib around. A tiny village with a narrow one-way road along the quay – at one stage traffic was held up by some street performers but no one seemed to mind.

Beautiful clear water for the morning swim. Jill possibly offering instruction to Stu on the paddleboard!!

Next day it was on to Gaios. forecast not great so the harbour was full and we anchored on the south side of the island. The wind got up in the night from the south – a change from the northerlies, so we shifted early round to the north of the island and anchored stern to the island. we are one of the easternmost yachts. Jill and Stuart left on the hydrofoil for Corfu and home.

After dropping off Jill and Stu we stayed one more night then off to Preveza. https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/09/preveza-to-kefalonia/

First thing in the morning we all decided to go for a walk around the village except Hew who wanted to do some maintenance on the yacht. Chris, Mark and Jo wandered up the hill and Stu, Jill and myself looked around the twin and commercial port.

On returning to the yacht some of us decided to swim to the next bay around the coast, Aspri Ammos, looking at the caves and grottos on the way. Stu and I managed 3.1km Jo and Chris 1.5k , Mark drove the RIB and Jill and Hew the yacht. Great swim.

We stayed the night in the bay as very sheltered and great views.

Next day we were due to go down the west coast of Corfu but weather blowing 15kts from SW so decided to go to Kassiopi for the night in good shelter. Much bigger town than we expected and huge number of restaurants.

Lovely bay to park in but sewerage smell was very present . Interesting since a big fish farm was just around the corner. The next morning we had a collection of fish just lowing in the shadow of the starboard hull on the surface of the water. Hew though they must have escaped from the fish farm!!

Then we decided better day we would go around the long way and down the west coast of Corfu.

Love Canal in passing.

Porto Timoni for morning tea.

Palaiokastritsas for lunch.

Paxos for dinner – see next blog.

On Tuesday we got ready to depart but Hew’s has bottle had been filled but was stuck on a truck that had broken down so he needed to buy a new bottle and pick his up later. Then tried to get back to boat but couldn’t get a cab as 3 cruise ships in town!! So I had to catch a cab from the rank get it over to the gas shop pick up Hew. Driver thought firstly Hew was mad to try and get anything done on a day when 3 cruise ships were in town. Secondly, he was lazy to get his wife to come and pick him up. Thirdly, Corfu was a shambles because every summer they were invaded by barbarians from the north, the same as for hundreds of years in the past- Italians, Germans, Goths, Visigoth, etc etc but now it was every summer!!!

After three days in and around the town we seemed not to have really viewed anything but liked the town.

Very glad to get out of the old town port – away from the smell of sewerage. Port employee there very friendly and helpful and site very convenient. There are big signs saying you can’t park there, then they “fine” you so they can say they told you so and you cannot then take them to court for damages( apparently as one yachtie tried to when boat was damaged in a storm).

Departed with crew for a bay on the NE side wind up but only due to last for 4 hours so ended up returning to Kouloura Bay, site of Durrell White House.

Next day went on to look at the Northern Islands. Firstly, Erikoussa – swim and lunch and a change of anchor.

Our main anchor had not been holding well since it was bent so with plenty of manpower on board we finally made the effort to dig out the secondary anchor from below the floor of the port forward hold.

In the afternoon had a good sail on to Othonoi. parked outside bay.