Nearly all the Viking Explorer group left together. Sadly one yacht got a positive covid test and all aboard had to isolate. A second yacht had a medical issue and needed to postpone for another year. Two further boats delayed their departure to wait for lower winds.

We departed expecting 25-30kts from NE and we got 30G40. Seas 2-3m. The ride was a rough but exhilarating roller coaster for the first day. Max wind was 40.6kts and max boats speed 20.2kts – the fastest we have ever gone and that was with 2 reefs on main and similar on the Genoa. Over several hours we were regularly getting 16-18kts down the swells.

All was good until we needed to gybe and, unfortunately, it was a bad one. We did not know how bad until dawn the next day when Hew was looking at the boom under the mainsail cover and saw the dent/ bend.

We reduced to a third reef and then after further consideration dropped the main and continued hull winged on Genoa and storm jib. A good combination and a good ride downhill.

Later in the day, we were visited by a large pod of dolphins who had a great time jumping and during in the waves. About 50-50 individuals with babies but the pod did not hang around close to the bows but rather darted in and out across the bows and down the waves.

The following is rather long and unfortunately no music yet but the video shows some of the antics of the dolphins in the later afternoon. https://youtu.be/c1HXg6gdcUU

Day three and the wind was decreasing to we ran the spinnaker all day and night. Very pleasant.

No sailing incidents but Hew decided to be the cook for the night and during the preparation managed to fire the Pyrex dish out of his hands and down the stairs ensuring a spectacular explosion of glass pieces everywhere!! So much for a quiet night!!

On day four the wind dropped slowly all day. We had to drop the spinnaker and motor-sailed half the day with the Genoa and then with the dying wind dropped the Genoa as well.

It was a lovely day and all were relaxing and doing the washing and tidying up. I had sent an update email to the yacht Copepod to say all the water sampling was going well and we must catch up at the next stop.

The next minute Mark comes in with a very sheepish look on his face to say he had just thrown the sampling tube overboard!!!!! Adding to the plastic waste in the ocean. It has a hook to attach it while you are collecting the water but he decided not to do that grrrr. No more sampling until we can get a new one. His new nickname “Dr. Dolittle”!!!

Next, another pod of dolphins turned up – as soon as some got here others rushed in from as far as you could see. This time they all hung close under the bows of the boat and jostled for the price positions. Very unlike the behaviour of the other lot two days earlier.

They departed after about 30 min and it was lunch. The fisherman has been very quiet but he has had three lines out every day and only one nibble. Anyway out he goes after lunch to find he had lost a lure and never even heard it!!! Problem with bungee cords on nylon and no steel trace. … No more fish seen that day 🙁

That night we decided with one day to go we should all watch a film with dinner so sit down to Bohemian Rhapsody!!

The next day we were all relaxing and suddenly Mark yelled “fish”!! Pete lept up to make sure it was true, Nev came rushing up out of bed, cameras came out – in case it jumped off. It was a beautiful blue Mahi-mahi or Dorado as they call it here. It is so beautiful in the water it is sad to see it caught.

Anyway, it was lovely to have sashimi for entré and fried fish for dinner, then poisson cru the next day.

Tuesday morning we were within sight of land. Petrels were the first bird we saw then the 3 local gannets kept us enthralled watching them catch fish in front of the yacht, including one flying fish.

We arrived in the harbour just after 1230 – it is littered with wrecks and some derelicts. We berthed at 1239 with marina assistance and met the local representative Stev, plus the marina staff. Next were the health authorities to look at our vaccination certificates and PCR test results. Followed closely by the rigger to look at the boom.

We sat down to lunch while waiting for the office to open. Then later we removed the mainsail and boom.

Next, I went to sort out the marina. The staff were all lovely, smiley faces, very friendly and helpful. The whole atmosphere of the marina is very casual snd reminds us of Fiji and the Pacific.

Followed by a meet-up at the bar.

We all needed local SIM cards so that was handled in the marina office by a phone lady

The riggers returned to pick up the boom which required a lot of manouvering around the office.

Finally, we could relax with beers and a Mojito!!

The next Viking yacht did not get in until about 8 pm. They were also looking at repairs as they had blown their Genoa apart!!

The festive season is truly that, a season of parties. The first party was hosted by the Swedish group and it was great fun with special hats and Swedish delicacies. There were Swedish Christmas lighted hats, Viking hats and Santa hats. The party was held at sunset on the dock https://marina.palmasport.es/ that we were all attached to which was crowded, and many of the yachts had Christmas lights!!

Christmas Brunch

Eleuthera invited the Viking group for a Christmas brunch of champagne and strawberries. Very good turnout to the point where the aft end of each hull was 10cm underwater! We had the traditional New Zealand summer Christmas celebration of champagne and strawberries, a tradition which was quite foreign to most of the group, but they all loved it. A very happy cheerful gathering.

Christmas Lunch

Although the brunch ran on until 1 pm there was just enough time for Pete to cook roast lamb for lunch. Herman and Ute off Thetis joined us for a very relaxing and enjoyable time.

Pavlova had been cooked the day before but had not been cooked through as the oven turned itself off when the chief engineer was checking his generator and shore power dropped off for generator power.

The favorite ginger and fresh cherry cake was perfect though.

Shambles but all sorted on the end and a very relaxing afternoon. Needless to say, there was no dinner!

New Year

After our great success on the first day’s dinner at Embarcadero in Las Palmas https://restauranteembarcadero.com/, we decided to go to the same restaurant for New Years’ eve. The meal was a degustation menu and the food was superb and the whole evening fabulous. Brilliantly organised and timed. We were incredibly lucky and had a marvelous night.

After a very festive stay in Las Palmas, we were off to the Cape Verde Islands: https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2022/01/las-palmas-to-mindelo-high-winds-broken-gear-and-dolphins/

The night before we had booked hotel rooms as everywhere seemed full and we felt we only had time to look at one town therefore we decided on the main town of Tenerife-Santa Cruz.

We did look at going to the volcano for a day but could not get transport or tickets on the gondola so gave up that idea.

We checked in at the hotel and had a wander around the grounds.

Christmas Lights

Before wandering around town we decided to book somewhere for dinner and Hew found a restaurant close by. When we got there they could only take us at 10 pm so off we went for a wander around town.

The Christmas lights were still up on every street. The effect was magnificent and cheerful. People were wandering around everywhere and sitting and chatting in cafes. It seemed much more alive than Las Palmas.

Dinner

Park

Between the hotel and the central part of the town is a lovel cool peaceful park.

Palm Garden- Palmetum Tenerife

The Palm Garden and foreshore near it were the city’s rubbish dump. It has now been changed into a huge park and birds have returned. A marvelous effort and shows what a city can do if it is inclined.

https://palmetumtenerife.es/?lang=en

The water park is also a fabulous facility and so cheap to go and use it.

https://parquemaritimosantacruz.es/el_parque/

We returned to the hotel for nibbles and drinks in the bar then went downtown to find a streetside restaurant. Unfortunately, the food was not as good as the night before.

Next morning was a quick trip into town for some last-minute purchases of vinyl records by Pete. Then off to the ferry for the return trip with a quick stop off at the Marina to talk to an old friend – a superyacht skipper- isolating on the boat with his crew due to some testing positive for covid.

Next blog: Las Palmas to Mindelo

Halfway Stop for Coffee

Climbed up and up, and up and up for about 1.2 hrs, taking an “off the main road route! Stopped at little cafe/bar for a much needed coffee, then up and away again.

The houses were sparse and build on steep slopes, it was getting cooler, then we were up in trees and little else.

Cruz de Tejeda

At a key junction, Cruz de Tejeda, at the near top we all piled out. A bar and cafe, a small monastery (now visitor/accommodation place) a little market. Surprisingly selling jumpers???

Off down the hill 5 mins to a little village Tejeda for lunch, beer and good nosh.

Tejeda – Rated the Prettiest Village in Gran Canaria

https://localguidegrancanaria.com/en/tejeda-village/

Lunch

Menu was very good for all apertisers, Pete and Nev tried the local mountain dish of goat meat in a garlic and something source… bones too and chewy but some great flavour.

Firstly a cold beer, and what a beer, ICE floating in the big glasses and the team agreed the beer was OK!

After a long lunch (Spanish style) with local deserts for the hungry and a short walk around the village …

Walk Around

We then discovered that Mr googles map route was closed for the day!

So back up to the road where we had been earlier, turn right and we were on our correct route to Roque Nublo!!!, where we should have been going earlier…??!!????.. As Hew would say “off piste”

Spectacular Roque Nublo and Paque Rural del Nublo

For more information see the following links: https://www.canarirural.com/EN/turismo/gran-canaria/Parque-rural-del-Nublo-ref129

https://www.spain.info/en/nature/pilancones-natural-park/

We arrived at the Roque Nublo (1800 meters) parking and all thought, yes, off we go…a short jaunt to the top…. A great path which started going up, up and up until 40 mins later, we were near the top!!

Across the flat plateau to the base of Nublo which climbs 150ft vertically all by itself. First climbed by the Germans in 1934, still is a rock climbers vertical challenge.

It’s was windy and cool (10 degrees), so now we knew why there were jumpers and jacket sellers down below! Stunning views and as it was 5pm the hews and different landscape highlights were spectacular, the photos don’t lie.

20 mins on top and everyone was ready to go, it gets dark here quickly at about 630pm so need to get back. Stunning adventure, not what was expected, always take a wind breaker or buy a jersey!!!

Birds Enjoying the updrafts

On the way down the wind had really risen and the birds were having a great time soaring in the updrafts.

Beautiful views from every where in a national park with spaced trees and lots of benches for summer picnics out of the sun. Fortunately for us they were empty as its mid-winter!!

All happy back at the car, there was a coffee truck with beautiful eyes (and awful coffee) but we were off home, via another scenic routing with Hew under pressure with delayed instructions and missed turned as Mr Google tried to keep up.

Via Terror and Lanzarote , and the same round about a couple of times, but home safe sound and satisfied …. Inland hills were much bigger and better than expected, need to have the right shoes and clothes and walking/climbing bits. Big sleep tonight

Next Blog: Christmas Week

We arrived at 2am into Las Palmas marina and parked on the reception berth. Slept till 6am expecting to have to move but told not to worry until the office opened.

At 9am had all the paperwork done but apparently two boats needed to be shifted for us to get into our berth. 10 am we finally berthed.

The marina has 1250 berths at very reasonable prices and also handles the mooring area outside which is also full at the moment. All those on moorings or in the bay can also apply to the office to get cards for the showers and toilets.

Viking Explorer Seminars

We lept off the boat and went off to the Viking Explorer welcome and first seminar.

Embarcardo Lunch

Having finished the seminars and feeling hungry we adjourned to the closest restaurant – The Embarcardohttps://restauranteembarcadero.com/. At the time we did not realise that it was probably the best in town and we wouldn’t find a better one. Three hours later and many laughs with the Manager we left for a siesta!!!!

Las Palmas Harbour

The harbour is huge with room for marinas, cruise ships – large and small, oil drilling rigs, container ships and the Navy. Fishing boats are all shapes and sizes and all flags: Belize, China, Japan, Korea, Spain….. On land there is maintenance facilities plus an aquarium.

Beaches

There are beaches both sides of the peninsula. There are very nice walkways and cycle ways all along both areas of beach and through town. The first is next to the Marina.

The other one to the north side is good for surf and very touristy.

Also at the eastern end of the beach there are a huge area of sand sculptures

Saint Lucy’s Day – First Party Hosted by the Swedish Boats

Shortest Day Celebration – Saint Lucy’s Day – hosted by the Swedish members of the Viking Explorer group.

Beautiful Old Town Las Palmas

The week of seminars concluded and Carlota who organises the Viking Explorer group took us on a walk through the old part of Las Palmas. The architecture was interesting but so too we’re the shops which are all international labels pitched at international tourists. The total income to the island is 95% tourism. The streets are beautiful to walk around due to the beautifully paved areas and very few vehicles. As you will see from the photos the paving is all different and very effective.

For those who are interested in local prices here are some photos of the local market.

Covid and Rule Changes

For the first week the rules were masks only inside. Week two just before Christmas the rules changed to masks everywhere. They are also giving boosters to everyone over 60 so Hew and I were both able to get our booster vaccination shots here at no cost. Very good efficient service.

The ARC Rally

Even though the ARC rallys leave also leave from LAs Palmas we have not heard much about them until the other day. The news of the November rally losing a sailer and two boat did make it through but more interesting was a discussion had by one of the Viking cruisers with the local chandlery. He was trying to replace a Dan buoy that wouldn’t fit the back of his boat due to the wind geenrator being in the way and was told they didn’t take returns on safety gear. Big signs all over the windows. The reason being that ARC participants must pass a safety test before they can leave – they come in and buy everything they are missing or have to replace. Then when they pass the check they try and return the new gear!!! Unbelievable that some people would pay so much to join a rally then skimp on their own safety gear!!

Well back to work getting the yacht ready:

Next Bog : Inland Grand Canaria

We arrived in Alcaidesa Marina https://alcaidesamarina.com/en/home/ at La Lineas near Gibraltar from Cartagena at 9 pm. We stopped at the main office for instructions and I mentioned that the berth they had allocated appeared to be too short from the diagrams. The man on duty said the office had allocated it so it should be right. So off we went to park the yacht.

Well, I was right and he was wrong – we only just squeezed in and the floating pontoons only came halfway up the boat.The pontoon was for a 12m boat and we are18 m.

Mark had arrived early and came to assist.

The next day Mark who was staying in the little houseboats for the night shifted in. He had eaten something odd the night before and had been up all night.

The next morning we shifted onto pier 9 which was a wall behind another catamaran. The only problem with pier 9 was Hew had to link 3 electrical cables together to reach the electrical box.

Into Gibraltar

Late morning we wandered into Gibraltar for lunch. We picked a cafe on Queen’s wharf where one of the other yachts “Ari” from the Viking Explorer group was moored. So after lunch, we went down and met Chris and Rose for a cup of tea. They were berthed in a shady and cold corner. We had not been able to get into any of the Gibraltar marinas, but now did not mind because although our berth was windy it was in the sun.

Arrival of Nev and Peter

Neville and Peter arrived late in the afternoon after walking from the airport because they could not find a taxi on the Spanish side of the border. After getting all the gear onboard and partially unpacking we decided to go into La Lineas town for dinner. Mark was still feeling off so stayed on the boat. Pete and Nev came as we searched the back streets for a restaurant recommended by the Marina office “La Charca”. https://m.facebook.com/lachacratapasgrill/

We arrived 10 min before it opened so went off to have a beer. We returned shortly and just got in before it rapidly filled up. Obviously a very local restaurant and superb. It was Pete’s birthday so we celebrated with a couple of bottles of the local red!! You had to like meat as there were very few vegetables to be seen!!

The Rock of Gibraltar

The next day was off to Gibraltar to do the tourist trip and look around the rock, and do a few chores in town. The tour by taxi around the rock was perfect. We had plenty of time for the lookouts, monkeys, tunnels, and caves as seen below.

The Monkeys

The Caves

The Tunnels

The View

We wandered to a cafe for a nice cappuccino and lunch.

Next Mark and Hew had to pose outside the post office in remembrance of times past- 40 years ago.

Provisioning

The next day was provisioning day in La Lineas – which Pete, Mark, Nev, and Barb. We achieved most of the shopping in a supermarket which delivered but needed to get meat from the butchers as Hew was feeling like a lamb roast. There was a 6 person queue outside.

Then Nev went off hunting for more fishing gear.

Final Preparation Day

The next day was all the odd jobs still to be finished! Nev’s toilet had not been working and a few days before Hew discovered it only had a 12 volt supply and not a 24 v supply to the pump!! The fridge compressor he had bought in Gibraltar the day before was the wrong one!! Then they were shut. The rigging needed a final check. All his maintenance gear needed to be stored away for the trip!!

Nearly ready to go!!

Next Blog: Gibraltar to the Canaries https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2021/12/gibraltar-to-canaries/

Day 1 Departing Gibraltar and getting out of the Straits

Well, daybreak saw the Marina with 25kts gusting 35kts. Waves at the entrance and cold though clear day. You will notice that the crew was really rugged up!!

We decided it was time to go anyway. It took considerable horsepower to get off the dock as we had to swing the sterns right out into the wind.

The first stop was the fuel dock in Gibraltar for duty-free fuel. Luckily it was out of the direct wind. They also sell food and alcohol but we’re out of beer due to an Aussie boat that came in the day before and bought all the beer they had!! Pete and Nev managed to go down the road to the supermarket while we were refueling.

Departed the fuel dock and motored across the harbour around all the ships, and into the lee of the hills to raise the sails 2 reefs in main and Genoa.

Then tried to sail for the exit of the Straits but really managed very little forward motion against the wind waves and tide. Did time tacking up the African side then crossed back to the Spanish side. Tangiers VTS did not want us amongst their traffic!!

Finally made it out of the Straits late Sunday. For the first half of the night, it was still windy and rough and we were still motor sailing.

Day 2 Fishing and Dolphins

Neville who is a very keen fisherman had put out two lines to try and catch some fish. He has been allocated one hull to fish in as we knew that it would get very messy. Also because we were traveling fast he was told he had to wear a harness – separate from the sailing harnesses when leaping outboard to bring the fish in. Suddenly one day he caught a skipjack tuna. didn’t have the harness on and was not ready. He hauled it aboard and bleed it all over the back of the hull – as expected and then had to wash the area down. This is a short video of the instant – but we were not ready either – so it is rather jagged. https://youtu.be/cXpBOyjAWAE

Also the same day we managed to get some footage of dolphins, but also on a new camera and very unprepared – hadn’t even read the instructions!!

Very little to report on the way down – for the first two days there was mostly motoring. The second night we were called on VHF by an Italian warship asking for details. Luckily a week before all ships had been warned that there were naval exercises in the Mediterranean and as part of this, they would be hailing boats at random and asking questions. I was not expecting it in the Atlantic though. Never mind they were very polite and gave us something to talk about.

Day 3 Good sailing and rolling seas

We got some good weather and sailed with genoa initially and then genoa and main for the whole day in a 15-20kt breeze and 2m rolling seas – much nicer than the Mediterranean, the interval was 12 sec rather than 4 sec.

Well all good things come to an end and as night was approaching and the wind was increasing and forecast to get worse with larger seas we made the decision to stop at the northern island of La Graciosa and then consider continuing south the next day.

Day 4 – Playa Francesca and Montana Amarilla Walk

We were pleased to arrive at La Graciosa around midnight and anchored at Playa Francesa. There were 7 other yachts in the bay at the time. We went to bed and as forecast, the wind increased overnight. The wind has stayed up for two days now max wind 38kts so we have all been snuggled in inside and getting on with other jobs. Neville and Mark have both been for a swim but the rest of us are waiting got the warm weather!! Air temperature 18deg, water temperature 18.5deg.

Day 5 Departing La Graciosa

We got up in reasonable time and discovered a small yacht had drifted back in the night a long way out of the bay so I sent Hew and Nev to check on him. He was very grateful that we cared but did not want to change anything while he was firmly attached to the seafloor in the current wind! Following breakfast, Neville and Mark have taken up an exercise regime as they feel the food is too good and the exercise too little. So in the morning, they were out on the aft deck doing pushups and planks!!

The afternoon arrived and they felt they must climb the hill so we dropped them off on the beach for a walk. This is the video of the walk https://youtu.be/z_0bb_KYtTE

We decided to stay the night and the next day head off at dawn which we did into a 3.5 m swell and 20kts, much better than the previous day. we had a good sail for most of the way but the wind decreased all the way to Las Palmas until we were on the motor again. The forecast was accurate throughout. A nice video of the conditions.

We arrived at Las Palmas on Grand Canary at 2 am on Sunday morning. Moored outside reception, woke at 6 am changed piers at 9 am, and made the first seminar at 10 am.

More on the next blog

Photos: All the crew Narration: Mark