Paget and Stella arrived late on a Friday night when we were having dinner with friends we had met on the Atlantic crossing. Their flight had been delayed and we thought this was the easiest way to meet up and a cute place to see. The restaurant, Fish & Blue, is situated on the water’s edge and is delightfully eclectic. The highlight is the unisex toilet which is the size of a small room.

Taaha

The weather for the trip to Taaha was initially very windy so we went straight to Tapuama Baie, opposite the Coral Gardens where we hoped to snorkel. The bay was a good place to anchor because there was a small village with a wharf, shop, roadside fruit and vegetable stalls and a little bar to explore while sheltered from the strong winds.

TapuamaVillage

Flowers

There are hibiscus everywhere around the village which was quite sheltered from the wind even though it was very windy.

Fare Miti Bar

Fare Miti Bar was a gorgeous little bar at the top of the harbour located opposite the local rum distillery. It was built on a boat attached to the land by a long pontoon. The deck was situated facing the west and the setting sun and we made good use of it. The ceiling inside was all woven mats as were many of the wall panels. The roof was thatched with solar panels for power. Most of the building materials were local.

Drinks were followed by a walk to the local pizza shop and some dinghy navigation in the dark to get home.

Neiona Pizza

Pearl Farms

The weather continued to blow, not very good for snorkelling, so we decided to visit a pearl farm around the corner. With everyone in the dinghy it was off past Manta Ray point to the next bay.

La Orana

La Orana Peral Farm has a big dingy dock and is easily accessible. They gave us a lovely welcome and an excellent tour explaining how the pearl farm worked. We were interested to see that all the collecting and placing out of the pearl shells and all the sales were done by the locals, but all the seeding of the pearls and the fine work was done by Chinese staff.

They had a great selection of pearls for sale and Hew and I were enticed into buying a necklace. Paget and Stella were far more restrained and just walked around and viewed the facility. They were rebuilding the pier while we were there and doing a very good job.

Snorkelling

As the wind moderated we were off to the Coral Garden to do some snorkelling which was what Stella had really come for. We floated around the area for about an hour and did two runs with the inflowing current.

Coral Garden

In the Coral Garden you anchor your dinghy in the shallows at the Eastern end then walk down a path on the little island and hop in at the western/seaward end. This enables you to drift down with the current through the garden and return to the start if you wish.

The water is beautifully clear and there are plenty of fish although when the tide is not full you can get stuck between coral bombies and have to backtrack. It is a lovely relaxing place to snorkel. A video is also available ………….

Manta Ray Point

As the wind increased again went looking for Manta Rays just around the point from the anchorage. The area next to the cliff was quite sheltered and ideal for snorkelling. The water depth drops away steeply but there is a shallow area on top where the Manta Rays like to come in and circle. They were spectacular and worth waiting for. We went out twice and the second morning they came up close. Instead of chasing them, if you float quietly, they will swim all around you. Unfortunately, everyone else followed us out looking for them so we soon left. Video coverage is via this link https://youtu.be/7HMIEdjvan8

With the Coral Garden, Peral Farm and Manta Rays ticked off we wanted to find another good snorkelling spot.

Motu Mahae

The following day the weather forecast indicated that it might be good for half the day so we decided to motor around Taaha. By midday it was blowing again and raining but an hour later, just as we approached Motu Mahae, it cleared. The Motu is one side of one of the reef passages to the open sea. We decided to stop and snorkel while we could and found the water was beautifully clear . It was windy but worth having a look.

Fa’a’aha

Fa’a’aha where it blew and rained for two days. Not weather for doing anything much except reading. We did go out for an evening walk around the town, and dinner at one of the caravans the meal was very good.

The last night was still forecast to be windy so we decided it was easier to stay on a bay we hadn’t visited in Taaha so we did that. It was more sheltered from the wind than Raiatea would have been and we could pick up a mooring courtesy of the local pearl farm. The price for taking a mooring in the bay was to visit the farm which seemed very fair.

The snorkelling was no good as it was still too windy so the water was very murky but we went for a motor around the little island and then for a walk through the village. The main interest points were a fresh baguette from the local baker and the Pearl Farm.

Champon Pearl Farm

Champon Pearl Farm had lovely grounds, eclectic garden items, and a tree house for kids. They had a wide range of pearls, colours and jewellery designs, but they did not seem to be of the same quality as the previous Pearl Farm, more a retailer than a fully operating farm.

Below are a few photos of the walk to the point and the grounds. You will notice how windy it was on the windward side of the point.

Finally, it was time to go and we sailed back to Raiatea and dropped Paget and Stella at the marina to head home. Sadly the weather was so windy we did not achieve as much as we wished but hopefully there were some good memories.

Next Blog: Tonga to NZ

Bora Bora Arrival

With only 2 days between crew leaving and picking up new crew in Bora Bora there was not much downtime. After crew changes in Raiatea, Mark leaving us after a couple of months for a reunion in London we sailed across to Bora Bora, a lovely 25 mile sail, to pick up our new crew for the great expetition to Tonga.

Bora Bora lived up to expectations with a spectacular peak and beautiful sheltered water. This comes with a cost as the place is much busier and more commercial than the previous islands. 

Moorings To’opua and the Yacht Club

Timing our arrival for mid afternoon we picked up a very sheltered mooring off To’opua Island just up from the Conrad resort and had a relax with the boat to ourselves in the company of several other cruising yachts we recognised.

After a visit from the mooring man we paid our mooring fees for our stay and discovered how the system worked. A really nice guy and very welcoming, he collects garbage from the boat a couple of times a week and apart from the moorings over at the Yacht Club which are limited to 2 nights only we could stay as long as we liked on the other mooring fields. We had been warned that anchoring and mooring in Bora Bora was difficult and fraught with officialdom but our experiences were quite the opposite – maybe a rumour to keep people away.

The next morning we watched boats leaving the Bora Bora Yacht Club moorings so decided to relocate as they are closer to the ferry terminal to pick up our new arrivals. Also the Yacht Club has a great location and the thought of a happy hour cocktail made the move more attractive.https://www.boraborayachtclub.org/

The Town of Vaitape

A trip into town to start the check out procedure was next on the agenda as it is a 48 hour process and we were also at the end of our 90 day visa and were going to be overstayers by the time the last of the crew arrived.  With some trepidation we approached the Gendarmerie and officialdom with a list of “plausible” excuses as to why we needed an extra day or two.  Our fears were completely unfounded with a very pleasant young Gendarme processing our paperwork with no questions and then telling us to return on Monday with the crew passports for stamping after which we would have 24 hours to leave.

Next on the list was Supermarkets and fuel as we needed to resupply Eleuthera through to Tonga.  With a mass of Pearl shops on the foreshore we wandered up the road and checked out the 2 supermarkets.  Both shops were well stocked and conveniently within walking distance of the harbour and the dinghy. The fuel dock was easy to access so we were sorted for the resupply.  Returning to Eleuthera with baguettes and some fresh lamb chops for dinner after our cocktails all was well.

Barb of course went snorkelling on the nearby point and had a great encounter with a Manta Ray which did a spectacular flyby which she managed to film while holding her breath and lying on the bottom. Manta Ray https://youtu.be/FtqSPmvFIhg

New Crew and Departure Preparation

Our son James and sister in law Pauline Davis arrived next morning and we made sure we were waiting for them at the dock.  There is a free ferry from the Airport to downtown Bora Bora which makes it very easy. Armed with croissants and baguettes we all returned to the boat for swims and a relax after their overnight flight up from New Zealand.

Cocktails and dinner at the yacht club that  night rounded out a relaxing day as we worked through the list of boat jobs before the next ocean leg.

Next day it was off to the fuel dock to fill up with tax free fuel for the voyage.  At around NZD 2.00 per litre it was the cheapest diesel we will see for a while. Claiming our spot on the dock was a case of might is right as the local boats tried to push in on a busy Saturday morning. As well as fuel James received instructions from the locals as to how to climb to the top of the peak which was on his list to do.

Off back to the mooring field we had a bit of an explore but the snorkelling was limited and the locals were not particularly friendly when we were off “their” shore.  We did manage to watch some of the Louis Vuitton Cup racing thanks to Starlink.  James and Hew managed to refill the props with grease and clean the bottom for a speedy voyage.

A visit from a French boat next door led to us swapping a RNZYS burgee from one from YCLB (La Baule Yacht Club) in France as the skipper Arnaud Naintre’s father is Commodore there. He is sailing round the world in his Outremeer 51 and in good cruising fashion is waiting in Bora Bora for parts and repairs. Great to talk to a fellow yachty who was like us interested in the Americas cup.

We had a young Humpback whale swimming around the mooring field which was great to see.  Young juveniles remain in these waters to grow while the adults swim back to Antartica.

Final Crew Member and Last Minute Shopping and Climbing

On Monday morning Debbie Whiting arrived and Barb and Hew went in to collect her as she was bringing more Gin and other essential supplies.  Barb and Deb went off to the Gendarmerie to check out which was a 10 minute process and we were good to go, passports stamped and exit documents complete.

Moving the boat back to the Yacht Club moorings, we had a booking for dinner, Debbie and Pauline felt the need engage in some retail activity and James had a mountain to climb.  Delivering them back to town Hew left them to find their own way back to the Yacht Club.

The adventurers returned laden with retail spoil and photographs of a successful climb to the top of the mountain.

Departure

After final cocktails and dinner we departed Bora Bora at 7.30 pm heading for Aitutaki.

Aitutaki

We had a great sail across averaging 200 miles a day for the voyage only slowing down in the last few hours to ensure landfall in daylight. 

We were all looking forward to Aitutaki. All the pre arrival forms and been fulled in, harbour master, customs and immigration all knew we were coming and they said there was room in the harbour. On the way we had a message from our friends on Zipper, saying they had a problem with a leaking skin fitting. It was very similar to the same problem we had had so they changed course and also headed for Aitutaki. We planned to catch up with them and the day before we arrived they told us they had just got in and it was very full, but we might squeeze.

We arrived with the crew excited to get ashore on their promised 4 island tour of the Pacific. Calling up the harbourmaster on the radio established that our booked berth had evaporated and we would need to anchor in the lagoon. Also it would be best if we came in the dinghy to check it out.

James and Hew took the dinghy in down the recently dredged channel to discover the Boat Harbour is muddy work in progress and full of boats.  Additionally the supply ship was due the next day and the 2 catamarans already there would have to move to allow the barge to operate as the ship anchors outside the reef. An inspection of the “anchoring” area quickly established there wasn’t one suitable for Eleuthera.  We did find Zipper and left them with a plumbers plunger to seal their skin fitting from the outside while they repaired it.

With no room in the car park we decided to move on and head for Niue, another 550 miles away.  After a chat to Bubbles the local whale watching boat we had seen with whales a mile or so away we hoisted the sails and carried on. 

Passage Activities

Slipping into an onboard routine Scrabble and 5 Crowns were in regular use with the whole crew playing the games.  Very difficult to beat the Scrabble queens and their list of 2 letter words. Cooking has become a regular pastime and the crew continues to eat well.  Our new crew members Debbie and Pauline are also new to catamaran sailing and struggle to get used to the sometimes loud crashes and bangs underneath from the waves passing through.  Debbie likens it to travelling on the underground.

Debbie caught the first fish – a flying fish off the deck. Perhaps she is a pink lure!

Beveridge Atoll & Niue

A change in the weather forecasts suggested that a delay in visiting Niue would be beneficial as some Northerlies were due which would make staying on the mooring field untenable.  Also there were no moorings for our original arrival time at Niue.

A suggestion was made that we visit Beveridge Reef on the way so course was altered for a new destination.  Calculations were made and the sails trimmed to reduce speed and allow for a daylight arrival as Beveridge barely breaks the surface of the surrounding ocean. A detour to Beveridge for a beveridge seemed to hit a chord with the crew.

As you may guess as we were approaching Beveridge we get a message from Niue saying they do have a mooring for us – too late!! We were almost there.

Arrival

Having delayed our arrival for daylight we approached the reef which is only visible at less then 2 miles when we had a whale join us less than 100 metres away. As we gybed to head down to the entrance the whale breached in spectacular fashion and we were treated to this huge creature airborne alongside the boat. Of course no one had a camera ready but we were all amazed by the sight. The physics of getting 50 feet and several tonnes of whale into the air are a little daunting

Arriving at slack tide we had a very easy ride in through the entrance. Clear water but good depths in the channel and our charts seemed accurate. Then we headed for the NE and an old fishing boat wreck. It was great to be in still water – no swell in the anchorage and only 10 kts of wind. The scenery was beautiful – dark blue and turquoise water with beautiful clear skies.

The anchorage was easy with only a few Bombies and nothing very high. Everyone kept into the water when we got there because it was so clear and beautiful.

We had a rest then later that later that day did a snorkel on the wreck and then on the Bombies all the way to the yacht. James had some work to do and the girls were more interested in cocktail hour after being deprived of their favourite beverages for 5 days.

Sand Bar

We could see a sand bar at low tide on the western side so we were very keen to across for a look and a walk on dry land.

James had his drone with him which showed the colours of the water and the clarity very well.

Departure

After our interlude on the sand bar it was time to depart the next morning. If we didn’t leave then the forecast was for high winds, big swell and rain. With a low reef bigger seas break over it and set up a very unpleasant wave pattern on the inside. The other yachts were staying until after the weather so they could go to Niue, we decided to skip the island as the forecast weather on the moorings would have been untenable. So off we went into the sunset again.

Next Blog: Vava’u Sailing Week: https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2024/10/vavau-social-and-sailing-week/

Fakarava is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve site famous for its coral and diving on the North(Garuae) and South(Tetamanu) Passes. There was a warning on the charts and information to be careful as the dive boats operate in the pass. As we arrived in the morning at the north pass ( Garuae) to enter on slack tide we saw 5 dive boats at the entrance and not one of these were near the surfacing divers.

The north pass is wide and deep and larger ships and superyachts regular visitors. Currents of 5 or 6 knots however keep you on your toes with back eddies and little whirlpools.

We moved inside round to an anchorage right on the corner. Beautiful sand bottom and 5 other yachts there in the flat calm.

Information

The atoll is in the Pacific Ocean, part of the Tuamotu Archipelago, and holds UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status, alongside the atolls of Aratika, Kauehi, Niau, Raraka, Taiaro, and Toau. It spans 21km in width and 60km in length, making it the second-largest atoll in French Polynesia after Rangiroa.

Fakarava has a fascinating past. The Pōmare Dynasty originated here before ruling Tahiti.

European explorers first mentioned the atoll in the 19th century. Fakarava became a French territory, known for coconut oil production and mother-of-pearl trade.

Christianity arrived with a Catholic priest Honoré Laval leading to the construction of churches.The Rotoava church (blessed in 1850) and Tetamanu church (dating from 1874) stand as historical landmarks.

Anchoring

You are supposed to anchor in set areas so you do not destroy the coral but we found that the anchorages were not big enough for the number of yachts, and the buoy’s that should have been there in most cases weren’t.  When you anchor on the sand you are supposed to float your anchor so you do not get entangled in the bombies(coral heads) and do not damage them.

In order to achieve this you need suitable floats and of course these were available locally in the form of disused floats from the pearl farms which seemed wash up everywhere. However with our heavy anchor and 12mm chain the logistics of trying to float the chain as recommended was not so easy and we are still refining our technique and the quantity of floats required.

Rotoava

The next day we went to the anchorage outside Rotava, the largest and the northern town. We did not anchor in the designated area as there were to many boats already there so we anchored in the NE corner which is apparently for super yachts. There we found our Swiss friends Gerald and Bridget on Jetlag anchored alongside us. Having last seen them in Colombia nearly two years ago it was a great joy to see them. Lunch and a serious catchup was planned for the next day at Havaiki Lodge

The Town of Rotoava

We needed to go ashore to pay our tourist tax and garbage charge and had a short look around town. We found a small shop but discovered that fresh fruit and vegetables come in only once a week on Wednesday with the island trader. These are swiftly snapped up by the locals and cruising yachts. Tomorrow is Wednesday!

Fakarava Church Rotoava

The Fakarava Church is built from coral rock and cement and many of the internal fixtures are made locally.

As well as protestant services the Fakarava Church actively promotes environmental protection on Fakarava Island and in all of French Polynesia. Reverend Tekurio Temanu, the pastor of the church, is a fervent supporter of environmental preservation. He has advocated against overfishing, pollution, and other environmental problems that endanger the delicate ecosystem of the island. Reverend Temanu has also collaborated with local organizations to set up marine protected areas all around the island.

He received the Goldman Environmental Award, also known as the “Nobel Prize for the environment,” in 2010 for his diligent efforts to encourage environmental preservation on Fakarava Island and throughout French Polynesia. See more at https://farandawayadventures.com/fakarava-church/

Mururoa

Largely forgotten by the rest of the world the nuclear testing program at Mururoa and the environmental consequences still loom large in French Polynesian. With 193 tests, including 41 atmospheric tests, between 1966 and 1996. Most local Tahitians were exposed to high levels of radiation and have been affected with high incidences of cancers and birth defects linked to this. France still denies there is a problem and compensation has not been possible. There are multiple reports confirming the levels of exposure but the French government has continued to brush the problems under the carpet.

Read the excellent article in the Guardian in the link below which follows the history of fallout from the testing.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/mar/09/france-has-underestimated-impact-of-nuclear-tests-in-french-polynesia-research-finds?CMP=share_btn_url

On the plus side France has poured huge amounts of money and infrastructure into French Polynesia since the 1960’s and continues to subsidise most of the activities. Consequently the islands enjoy good roads, wharf’s, airports and regular shipping and transport as well as electricity and water supplies. There is also a good healthcare system and education to tertiary level is available to everyone. This infrastructure is way beyond most of their neighbouring pacific countries.

As with most French territories fresh baguettes and croissants are available daily on larger islands. Additionally daily flights from Paris ensure the supermarkets are well stocked cheeses and other fresh food from France.

Lunch

Havaiki Lodge is a glorious spot for lunch with tables on the sand surrounded by beautiful blue water. Good food, cold drinks, good company and friendly staff, perfect. https://www.tahiti.com/hotels/havaiki-lodge-fakarava-6543

It was great to see Gerald and Brigette again and we enjoyed a leisurely lunch catching up on each others adventures over the past couple of years. Gerald, a fellow retired pilot, and Brigette have fallen in love with French Polynesia and have decided to stay here so are in the process of importing their boat (paying the taxes). As French speaking Swiss they have fitted right into the local community and have been able to give us some good information on how the place works.

We discovered they had a friend arriving on the same flight as our friends the next day so we organised a ride on the same bus and lovely leis for all of them. A very helpful local the others knew organised all this for us

Children and Sharks

Walking back from lunch we came across a local family who had been picnicing on the edge of the lagoon. Stopping for a chat we saw there were a number of sharks in the shallows which they happily ignored as they cleaned their BBQ gear and a 2 or 3 year old child played in the shallows right next to them.

The black tip sharks and sleeping(nurse) sharks are all around the Fakarava Lagoon and the children feed them, play with them and swim with them. It occured to us that sharks in the shallows in NZ would see everybody out of the water!

Diving the North Pass

The following day we decided to dive with Top Dive in the northern pass. Mark had blocked sinuses and did not come so Hew and I set off with a local dive company. Our adventures began half way across the lagoon when one of the outboard motors lost drive to the propellor so we continued on one engine only.

The first dive started in shallow water outside the entrance and we swam back through the pass slowly getting deeper as we crossed into the main channel. The current was running strongly by now and at one stage we had to crab across the current holding on to the bottom before letting go and flying downstream with the scenery rushing past.

After a break in on the beach inside the atoll we ventured out for our second dive starting outside again but initially deeper as were to make our way up into the shallower pass. The instruction was to descend to 28-30m where we would find the wall to start coming up to around 15-18m in the pass. However with the currents and a choppy sea state the boat had dropped us further out than planned and at 30m we could neither see the bottom or the wall with several of the group going to nearly 40m before realising the depth they were at. In the end we did all manage to swim to the wall but we were unimpressed with the dive operator both on the drop off and also diving deeper on our second dive which is not good practice – we would not reommend them as an operator.

Unfortunately no photos as teh gopro was not working and I had problems with the older camera as well. However there are many more photos and video links in this blog, and on the Kiwiflyingfish Youtube channelhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfFESL5kPhUAsarowPnnLXg

Supply Ship arrives

The supply ship comes once a week on Wednesdays (weather permitting) and takes about two hours to unload. Everyone waits for its arrival and the fresh food it brings. Apart from coconuts and fish everything is imported so there are all sorts of things coming off the ship from building materials, gas bottles, furniture and vehicles.

As the main event of the week there are lots of people waiting for the ship with their orders and also outside the grocery shops for the fresh fruit and vegetables. The fruit and vegetables are gone as soon as they hit the shelves, likewise imported cheeses and anything else perishable. Outside the shop are some enterprising locals who also sell locally grown melon on the same day. Interestingly frozen meat is always available – mainly because it is so expensive.

Photo

Visitors Arrive

Two days later Simon and Liz turned up and Hew was excited to see them with a collection of spare parts from New Zealand. As our first NZ visitors since Panama they had to bring an extra bag just for boat bits, such is the cost of coming to visit us in remote locations!

Unfortunately the day they arrived all the restaurants were closed so we decided that we would go back to the anchorage that we had first been at the northern entrance. It was late in the day and not much time to explore but lovely for a swim and a walk ashore on the beach.

Baguettes

The weather forecast was not looking great for the next week and with southerly winds forecast we needed to move to the southern end of the atoll and shelter from the sea state if not the wind. The atoll is so big that the forecast 25-30 knots winds would build up to 2.5m waves at the anchorage at the northern end.

A foraging expedition went ashore in search of essential supplies to get us through next few days. Returning with croissants, baguettes,wine and tonic water we were ready to head south.

Hirifa

Next day off to Hirifa in the southeast corner. The trip down takes 4 hours and since it was the first time we had to be on watch to keep an eye out for bombies even in the marked channel. The charts are better than Raroia but we felt we could not entirely trust them. Sailing down on a pleasant breeze we were joined by several other boats heading to the same destination.

We anchored in good holding amongst a fleet of boats seeking the same shelter. The wind was still out of the west so the anchorage remained a bit bumpy as we waited for it to go round to the south and increase. It was very windy and ideal for kite surfers, wing foilers etc but not great for peaceful cruising. We went ashore for a look around but neither the restaurant nor the kite surfing facility seemed open. A walk along the beach for some exercise and we chatted to various fellow cruisers also exploring what was on offer.

Gerald, Bridget and Vereana on Jetlag had said they were coming down but had branched off to Tetamanu. The photos looked great but unfortunately if you were not a kite surfer then it really was windy. By now it was blowing 20-30kts and the kite surfers were loving it.

Tetamanu

After talking to Bridget and Gerald we decided to go to Tetamanu and explore the South Pass. It was still just as windy but they said it was Ok sheltered behind the little islands. We found shelter behind the reef and decided to explore the famed South Pass.

Snorkelling Tetamana South Pass

The plan was to snorkel on the incoming tide so we got in the dingy and Hew said he would be boatman. Since this was Liz and Simons’s first experience with drift diving in a current and we hadn’t snorkelled here yet either we were excited about what we would find. Everyone snorkels on the incoming tide as it is clear with fresh incoming water from the open sea, on the slack tide it can be murky and an outgoing tide is just not a good idea! As the tidal changes are not very accurately forecast the cruisers all wait for the local operators to go out then leap in their dinghys and follow.

Starting out in shallow water out of the current we were surrounded by little black tip sharks and remora doing their thing. It was then off downstream in the current which increased as we swam downstream until we reached the shallows a few hundred meters. Lots of excitement with the swimmers so it was back upstream for a repeat performance.

Video:Tetamanu drift snorkelling https://youtu.be/vHN52l63g-k

The local dive operator was located in the South Pass with a 5 minute boat ride to the dive sites in the pass. Noting they seemed to have a bar and restaurant we enquired about a booking but as the pensions here were full of divers and could not serve any food to non-guests. Such are the issues of operating tourism ventures with irregular supply deliveries.

Tetamanu Village

The next day we dicided to have a look around the town while we were waiting for the tide and more snorkelling. The village is quite small but was once the capital of the Tuamotos.

There is a very pretty old church made from coral dating from 1874

Central Channel

As the weather had improved we decided to head north again this time up the central channel which is relatively well marked on the charts. This time we sailed on a genoa up the centre channel just behind Jetlag. This was a good ride with not many bombies until the last quarter when suddenly Jetlag veered at right angles in front of us as they had almost run into some pearl farm buoys. For the next 30 mins we saw many buoys in that section of the channel.

Back in Rotoava

Back up north we discovered that the restaurants were only open on Thursday to Sunday so no dinner out.

On Tuesday Liz, Simon, and Mark set off on a bike ride with Bridget and Vereana and then met up at Havaiki Lodge for lunch. The same restaurant we had dined in earlier. Hew was very excited to be able to complete some repairs with the parts Liz and Simon had bought with them

They cycled from town to the end of the northern spit, then back against the wind. Liz was not impressed especially in the exposed area around the airport. They aimed to find the Taputavaka and Topoka lighthouse ruins but only found one. They all made it back for lunch where Hew, Gerald and I caught up with them later.

Pufana Rock

The next day the wind was still blowing but we decided we should do one more snorkel before they went home so we tied up to the buoy at Pufana rock this was spectacular snorkelling as well and a great mooring – solid chain. Here are a few photos of the snorkeling and a video: https://youtu.be/R1rm16cb-YI

We headed back to the town for the night as Liz and Simon were going the next day.

In the morning Liz and I went for walk along the waterfront. We found by accident the other lighthouse that they had not seen the day before because it was not in the right place on the map. We also afound one of the Pearl farm shops but it was all clsoed.

Liz and Simon departed that afternoon. Mark and Hew and I stayed the night to have a meal at the local restauarant Hirinaki Lodge that had happy hour and tapas. https://www.facebook.com/TemoanaRangihei/

The next day we headed back down to Hirifa because we had decided that we had to do the dive in the South Pass at Tetamanu before we left . It is rated as one of the top dive sites in the world.

Raimiti

Enata Diving

The dive shop was based at Raimiti just north of Hirifa. The next morning they collected us from the yacht and we had a great dive. The first dive started on the Eastern side of the channel and then crossed over the deepest area onto the western side. They stopped between dives at the little beach at Tetamanu for snacks and a drink, and an explanation of the next dive drawn in the sand. then straight back into the water the second we went to the “viewing room” which is a small cave to watch the sharks go by, then finishing around the corner where we had also finished our snorkelling previously.

The best diving we have had for a while with lots of fish life and on the second dive more sharks than we have ever seen!! Excellent dive operators who were all alot of fun. Enata diving operation link https://www.enatafakaravadiving.com/en/

Tetamanu Pass Dive Video: https://youtu.be/E8BopO_okyk

Raimiti Lodge

After getting back to the yacht then washing the dive gear and changing our clothes, we decided to go to Raimiti Resort for a drink. What a beautiful resort and what a surprise, it is perfectly placed for the sunsets. https://raimiti-fakarava.com/en/homepage-en/

Once again they were unable to supply food for outsiders as they only catered for guests, perhaps we will go back and stay there sometime. A very beautiful laid back little resort.

After two days it was tiime to head out for Huahine and the Society Islands.

Next blog: Huahine

We motored for the last 12 hours before our arrival to arrive in time to get through the Passe De Tipu, and anchor outside the town for the night. This was our first attempt at entering an atoll through a pass in the reef and while the charts were accurate and the pass well marked being able to see the bottom up close was uncomfortable. A mile offshore we had depths of 1500m coming up to less than 15m in the pass with shallow reefs either side! With strong currents flowing out most of the time we needed to be careful and not drift off course.

Following the marked channel down to the town we anchored just as the light was fading. This was the first time we had no swell or waves for months and we were completely unaccustomed to sitting still in the flat calm water. Time to great to relax and celebrate our first atoll pass crossing.

Raroia(also known as Raro-nuku) is an oval-shaped coral atoll on the eastern side of the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia.  The atoll measures 43 km by 14 km, with a land area of 41 km² and an impressive central lagoon of 359 km².

Background

Since this is the first blog in the Tuamoto Islands here is a little history

Archaeological evidence suggests that Polynesian settlers arrived in the Tuamotu Archipelago, where Raroia is located, around 800-1000 AD, although some studies indicate an earlier settlement. Ancient Paumotu people referred to Raroia and Takume as “the Twins.”

In 1606, Raroia was discovered by Europeans when Spanish explorer Pedro Fernández de Quirós sailed through the Tuamotu Archipelago and called the island “La Fugitiva.” Later in 1820, Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen a Russian cartographer rediscovered it, naming it Barclay de Tolly. In the 19th century, Christian missionaries arrived, then later traders who offered pearls from the islands for sale in Europe. France claimed the Tuamotus but did not formally annex them. Today, they remain a French overseas collective.

Main Town

Only 150 people are living on Raroia. The languages are Pa’umotu (local) and French (taught in the elementary school), and most speak some English. Primary school is on the island followed by secondary school on nearby Makemo and university in Tahiti (748 km away).

Locals primarily engage in fishing, copra cultivation, pearl farming, and a little tourism.  Raroians are known for their warm welcome, even sharing lodgings with travellers. Their diet is local seafood, imported bread, rice, and canned goods.

We set off to walk around town and find the small shop to buy some dried goods. The shop was well hidden in the back of two houses. Only allowed one person was allowed in at a time but the staff were very friendly. All the power on the island is solar as can be seen with the panels on all the houses. The streets and sections very neat and tidy

The next day we headed out of town, back past the pass, and across to the island with the Thor Hyerdahl monument. This involved dodging bombies on the way. The only accurate information is satellite photos and Mark 1 eyeball. There are channel markers from the pass to the town but none after that. Good light and a sharp lookout are required to navigate the atoll.

Eastern Side of Atoll

Thor Hyerdahl Monument

In 1947, the famous Norwegian explorer and writer Thor Heyerdahl and his crew of fellow Vikings sailed a balsa wood raft named Kon-Tiki from South America to the Polynesian islands. They eventually landed on the eastern side of Raroia after a 101-day journey from South America. This expedition was instrumental in demonstrating the possibility of ancient South American people reaching and settling in Polynesia. Unfortunately, they were later proved wrong. Bengt Danielsson, a Kon-Tiki crew member spent some time there studying Raroia’s economy and society.

The monument to the Kon Tiki Expedition is on a small island at the edge of the atoll. It is a reserve and full of birds. Mark also tried out the hammock under the trees. We walked to the outer edge of the reef with friends from another catamaran called Zipper.

Even on a calm day the swell breaking on the reef was significant so the guys on Kon-Tiki must have been a little nervous when they were about to be washed up. Raroia would have had a very small population in 1947 and they came ashore on the other side of the atoll 20 miles from the village. We are not sure how they made their way across the lagoon but I guess after surviving several thousand miles from South America another 20 miles was neither here nor there.

Hew decided that a lump of coral looked like a Viking mask from Kon Tiki (or earlier Vikings) and suited him, but we decided that NZ may not like coral artifacts!!.

Palm Island Yacht Club and the Northern Anchorage

The northern anchorage is a favourite spot here for cruisers who have given it an official yacht club name. It is well sheltered from the north and NE winds. An idyllic anchorage with snorkelling, islands to explore, and sunset drinks on the beach with some fellow yachties, just perfect (except for the Nonnies, the local tiny sandflies that come out at dusk).

Just across from where we anchored was a little inlet teaming with fish and I spent several hours there watching all the activity in shallow warm water.

However, it didn’t stay like that and at 2 am one morning, the wind switched around to the South and blew up to 30kts – gone were our smooth calm waters and peace and quiet. Luckily we didn’t drag our anchor but friends next door were up trying to reset things in the dark. Scary stuff when you know there are shallow uncharted bombies nearby that you can’t see. By morning things had calmed down, and it was much more peaceful.

While we were in Raroia we snorkelled at each place we stopped but after the high winds, the water was too murky for the next couple of days. We did not snorkel the passage as we were due to pick up friends in Fakarava in a couple of days, and after the bad weather both in the Marquesas and here we had lost time so sadly off we went direct to Fakarava to make up time.

Next Blog Fakarava: https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2024/08/friends-and-more-at-fakarava/