After our experiences in San Andrés, we were wondering what to expect in Providencia.

Just before we got to the harbour, we could see a navy ship anchored out on the edge of the reef. Then a huge squall came through and just after that there was a small school of seven dolphins playing on the front of the yacht bow wake for 10 minutes. A lovely sign.

Providencia is actually two islands, the small Santa Catalina to the northwest of the Harbour and then the large Providencia Island. The harbour is between the two islands and is joined by a new bridge.

The entry into the harbour through the reef is well-marked. We called up to enter the harbour and nothing was heard from the Port Control. We went in and anchored seeing two boats ahead – one was “Meow” (Oscar and Anya) who had been in San Andrés and the other was “Pacific Blue” (Hans, Irene, and Thomas) who we came to know and were also members of Panama Posse.

We contacted Mr Bush the agent and he advised us to anchor overnight and come in in the morning. We were very tired after all the sleepless nights in San Andrés and also a rather rough passage north to Providencia so we were happy with the arrangement.

Officials and Agents

In the morning James and I went into the dingy dock and Mr. Bush was waiting for us. We walked along to his home as he told us all about Hurricane Iota, a category 5 cyclone that struck the island on November 16, 2020, and destroyed the town which was still getting rebuilt. The Hurricane damaged 98 percent of Providencia Island’s energy and road infrastructure, property, and motor vehicles, causing its whole electricity grid to collapse overnight. Mr. Bush said the Colombian government had been very helpful and took immediate action and within 100 days, almost all electricity was restored. They are now trying to make a more sustainable and resilient energy infrastructure https://www.climatelinks.org/blog/after-storm-creating-sustainable-energy-future-providencia-island-following-hurricane-iota  Many of the people in town at the moment were workers bought in by the government to rebuild the town. The rebuilding is continuing and there are many articles on the devastation and the rebuilding program on the internet for those who are interested. It is good to hear some good news about governments.

All the roofs in the town were lost and most of the houses with two stories lost the second story. The Cinema was declared a write-off. Most of the government departments are still in temporary housing. All the roofs in the town are the same due to being reroofed with the same tin colour after the cyclone. Mr. Bush said his house lost the second story and he had rebuilt. There are still sheets of tin over his side window spaces.

We sat and waited with him and soon the immigration lady turned up, then the harbour master. He asked if we had paid the tourist tax and when I said yes but I had not been able to get any receipts for it, I heard that this was not an uncommon problem and did I have any evidence of it. I showed him all the conversations with the last agent on WhatsApp and Mr. Bush translated for the official. The official and Mr. Bush agreed I should send the San Andrés agent some more messages asking for the receipts again.

We were there for three days and when I came to check out the receipts had still not appeared. The official came in and Mr. Bush suggested that it was his job to make sure the agents paid the government and provided visitors with receipts. Anyway, they agreed that I did not have to pay and he went away. We then waited 2 hours for immigration to return the passports. Apparently, their power had been cut off. The contractors were supposed to be fixing another government department in a different house in the compound and cut Immigration off by mistake. Interestingly they use a Canadian software program.

At about 1030 the passports turned up and we departed Providencia. Two hours later I got my receipts from the San Andrés Agent!! I think the Official must have phoned and had a discussion with the tardy San Andrés agent.

Cruisers Catchup and Island Walk

Our time in Providencia was mostly spent relaxing and fixing some items on the yacht. On the way up we had broken a reefing line so it had to be fixed, Hew was still sorting out the Victron components, and James and I were cleaning up. The flag pole also snapped off in the wind, but luckily it was attached further up to the rails so we did not lose the flag, but we had nothing to fix that with us.

The crew of Pacific Blue and Meow came over to chat the next morning so we all had a good catch-up. Meow had decided to set sail the next day (Tuesday) for Honduras and then work up to Miami from there. Pacific Blue and ourselves were both going North, them to the Cayman Islands for Christmas and us to Belize. We had both decided to leave on Thursday when the NE winds had moved more to the east and the waves decreased.

The Peak Track

Hans and Irene from Pacific Blue then said they were going to climb the peak so we decided to go as well. We all lept into the dinghies and of we went – in the middle of the day!!

We were going to get taxis around to the start of the walk but there weren’t any so we went on bikes – a driver and two passengers!! No helmets! The road was not bad but had lots of judder bars and the bike Hew and I were on had a very softback tyre.

We got to the town at the start of the track and were then told that we needed a guide at a rate of 50,000 pesos each. Luckily, we had a lot. from our refund on the diesel in San Andrés.

Off we set for 1.5 hour’s walk.

Evidence of damage from the cyclone was everywhere, damaged bridges, damaged tracks, and fallen trees. Much of the bush was regrowth.

About halfway up I had totally overheated and not had enough water so Hew and I slowed down and then stopped until I had cooled down – Hew was soaking wet from sweat.  When you stop you do get to see more of the small items and the little lizard jumped from the bridge to the tree about a meter. Then there were some beautiful fungi on one of the trees. I did hear some birds but the only one I saw was too quick for me to get a photo.

After a few minutes, we decided we could go on and at least to the saddle.

When we got there the others were not that far ahead so we continued on to the top. It seemed that Irene had also hit the wall and had to stop.

T intersection – we were not sure if they had gone to the pool or direct to the summit.

As we came out of the bush cover we saw them on the rocks at the peak.

There was a viewing platform but it had lost its roof in the cyclone and still not been replaced.

The view from the top was great and worth the hike.

We had some snacks and water then wandered off downhill. On the way down we meet another group and the leader of that group told us to come to his beach bar – Roland Roots Reggae Bar and Restaurant – and have a swim and cocktail after the walk.

We got to the bottom and set off down the road to the bar. It was right on the beach which was a nice spot but the water was so stirred up from the wind that you could see nothing in it. We had some beers and water and I tried a Mojito cocktail but it was not mint – something else with a taste more akin to lemongrass. Anyway, we had a couple of drinks each while they lit the fire to encourage us to stay for dinner.

We decided that we were all too wet and dirty to eat there and tried to organise a taxi ride back to the yachts. We managed to get one taxi and one bike. The guy with the car had his girlfriend in so four adults and a child squeezed in the back and James went on a scooter. We got back first as James and this driver stopped when it started raining and hid under a veranda until it stopped.

Last Full Day

The next day we talked about going snorkeling but it was a boat job day since it was the last day before we were leaving. This included mounting the Starlink on the Passarella so we could use it at sea. An important item and being used as I write this at sea.

We were even considering going out for dinner but were told that none of the restaurants were open. That evening we had an inspection from the Maritime Authorities again. Very nice and polite young guys. All was well. Our Zarpe came through via WhatsApp and we were all set to go as soon as our passports could be stamped the next morning.

However, as mentioned above it took several hours waiting. We did manage to get a great cappuccino in the little restaurant by the port. The first decent one since we left New Zealand.

We waved goodbye to our new friends and sailed off past Captain Morgan’s Head and out of the Providencia harbour. We would definitely go back there as we had a really enjoyable time.

Everyone relaxed into the ocean cruising mode.

Since our flagpole for the Blue Ensign had failed and couldn’t be repaired we decided to use our old New Zealand ensign until we could make permanent repairs. It is looking very well worn.

Next stop is Belize, 790 miles away. It may take a few days….

San Andrés is a coral island, long and flat, full of tourists and nightlife, 30 flights a day, and a harbour facing east. There is no natural fresh water on the island, it is either roof collection or from the desalination plant.

Providencia is a volcanic island tall and lush, with water, a very large coral reef, few people, very few tourists, one ferry and one flight a day, and a harbour facing west.

San Andrés

Officials and Agents

When we first arrived we called port control and they welcomed us in. Then the navy turned up to inspect the yacht as we were anchoring. They were lovely young guys from the mainland of Coñombia and they had coffee and biscuits with us and stamped the passports and inspected the yacht. This was a great welcome.

Then we had to meet the agent ashore at the marina. He was recommended by Panama Posse and so we thought all should be well. I took all the papers in and met him on the dock. The immigration lady came to collect the passports, disappeared, and came back 20 min later. The port authority was there and I signed the paper and he gave it to the agent. The agent asked me for the tax money $ 35 USD each, plus his fee. I paid and he said he was just off to the bank to get the forms and would be back. That was the last we saw of him.

the agent had also organised to get the laundry done. I waited on the dock for two hours and no one turned up. I gave up at 5 pm and went back to the yacht. Meanwhile, I met Sylvie and Eduardo a lovely couple on a catamaran “Second Wind”. They told me another yacht in the bay had had problems with our agent.

The next day I went and had a chat with Oscar and Anya, who were on a cat called “Meow”. They were going in to see their agent so I asked if I could tag along and ask him some questions. Their agent Mr. Rene said he could help me with information but since I had already used the other agent I had to get the papers from him.

There were many WhatsApp messages and calls most of which the Agent did not answer. The night before we left I finally got the Zarpe so I could check out at 1730 via email. No sign of the receipts or tax card which I needed for the next stop in Providencia to prove that I had paid the tax.

After all the bad weather and anchor problems we decided to go anyway. We got Mr. Rene to give us the name of an agent in Providencia.

We called the harbour master and gave the Zarpe number and he responded with “happy journey”.

The day before we left we asked Mr. Rene if he could recommend a driver to take us on a tour around the island. He did so and it was his brother.

San Andrés Harbour

We spent several days anchored in the harbour 20kts gusting just under 40kts. The harbour is full of all sorts of boats and they are often rafted up together all on the same mooring. It also has a couple of wrecks and one schooner attached to the bottom on a sand bar. Many of the boats were not in very good shape.

The local boats are out day and night even in 35 knots of wind. the sea is fairly calm as the harbour sits inside the coral reef.

Our first anchoring was in sand and good holding but after going in for diesel and being held up, then trying to anchor in rain at dusk we missed the sand patch. The rest of the bottom is sea grass and in only 2 m of water and high winds, we were lifting the chain off the bottom.

We dragged later in the night as a squall went through at 38kts, as did the yacht behind us. They ended up badly scratched on the waterline by an old wreck.

Trying to re-anchor we popped the capstan circuit breaker when it jammed. Driving around in the dark in a storm, with boats all around, trying to stay head to wind, and an anchor chain jammed is not my idea of fun. Anyway finally got it fixed and had another go and held for the rest of the night.

The next day we put a lot more chain out and we were hoping to leave first thing the following morning. The anchor held all day and all night until about 5 am when the anchor alarm went off again. This time we just sat on the motors until daybreak and then departed with great relief to be away to Providencia.

San Andrés island tour

We decided to take a day off the boat for a trip around the island. Unfortunately, it was one of several wet days. But if you don’t take the chance you don’t know what you might miss.

We drove through town in a taxi and discovered it was a public transport-only day in town. The place is usually full of scooters, a few cars and trucks. Every Friday for half a day there are no vehicles so it is really easy to walk all around. None even parked on the sidewalks.

Just past the town centre is the airport with all the fences painted or holding panels by various artists.

There is a whole section on recycling made from recycled plastic bottle tops and pieces of bottles. The work was a great acknowledgement of the opportunity to recycle waste.

Firstly there were the sea creatures – fish, shellfish, crustaceans and octopus.

Then there were the sea birds.

The display ends at the main beach which has a wide walkway along the edge of town and ends in a tiny harbour for the local fishing boats.

Museum

The next stop was the museum which was very well done and we had an excellent guide. Entry was 10,000 pesos about $ 2 USD and you could tip the guide at the end.

The area had an old traditional wooden house from the colonial era with balconies upstairs and down and a detached kitchen and separate toilet block. The inside had old photos and period memorabilia.

There were also paintings on all the walls to tell a story such as the plantations, the music and instruments and the pirates. ( every pirate painting or statue bore a remarkable resemblance to Captain Jack Sparrow!)

When the British owned the island Capt Harry Morgan was in charge but he was basically just a pirate. He apparently had 48 wives and 150 children and died at age 50 of syphilis. Meanwhile, he was in San Andres and Providencia for 4-5 years and then became Governor of Jamacia. Many of the original island families had English names and spoke English and they still do. Spanish and Creole are also spoken.

At the end of the visit you had to go and learn the Salsa – a good laugh.

Captain Morgan’s Cave

This attraction was 20,000 pesos each and was like a wet dirty rundown discarded movie set.

The museum had a collection of old pistols, daggers and swords. Although they told us some were from Spain and some were found around the island I am not sure how many were authentic.

The grounds and paths are full of life-sized pirates of all shapes and sizes – male and female. As you can see Hew particularly liked one statue.

There are also old canons scattered around.

Captain Morgan’s cave was a large cave that was full of fresh, slightly saline water. It is apparently open to the sea somewhere underneath. This is where he hid his treasure – apparently.

More Salsa dancing lessons before you could get out..

Blow hole

The last attraction was the blow hole. We have many in New Zealand but it is not generally encouraged to stand on top of them. There is a channel which you can apparently swim through in calm water. We watched for about 40 minutes as people came and stood over the hole to get caught in the rush of air or water. You could not predict which you would get and it did not seem to make any difference depending on the angle or strength of the water against the cliff. Everyone there was happy and cheerful – just having fun. There were lots of tourist shops and many colourful restaurants and bars. The place was very busy.

Many of the buildings were partially or fully painted in pictures and various colours.

There is no natural underground water in San Andres and most of the water collection is all from the roofs of the houses into these small plastic tanks – many painted with designs as seen here.

Confiscated Buildings

Another interesting feature of the NE coast of San Andrés is the huge number of very large and expensive holiday houses. Scattered amongst all these are properties that are looking very well maintained are others that look like wrecks. The latter are properties that have been confiscated from the drug kings but where the ownership has been tied up in court to stop their sales. Until the government wins they can only just lock them up. It seems many have been in this state for several years.

Well, that was the story of San Andres. The Story of Providencia is in the next blog and also the continuing saga of officials and agents.

Arrival and First Day

We arrived just after daybreak, which was the first time to arrive in daylight at a new port for a long time. The wind had died away and the reflections were lovely. A complete change in weather with high mountains inland and we are now south of the trade winds which have been with us since leaving the Cape Verde Islands.

We contacted the port control and after the usual questions, they welcomed us to Colombia. It was the first of many welcomes and smiles, from the Port, the marina staff, the marina office, and numerous men who work on the boats. It made you feel that you really were welcome.

This was the first continent we had been on for 6 months. High-rise buildings, a big port, and many ships and tugs. Coal and grain are shipped out of Santa Marta. A bit of a culture shock after small Caribbean islands with tourism as the main industry.

The wind had died just as we got close so we put on the engines and suddenly there was a burning smell. Stopped the engines and looked everywhere onboard for the source with no sign of a problem. We then went to the front of the yacht and you could smell it up there so it was not us on fire. Looking forward and we saw all the smoke haze in the distance. We were wondering what sort of place Santa Marta was going to be!

The Marina

The area around the marina is quite pretty but the roads drain straight onto the beach and the water is full of rubbish. It does not feel very clean to swim in. They still fish here in the evenings though and the egrets seem to find it OK to fish as well!!

The Santa Marta marina is modern and has very wide pontoons so they can drive golf carts down the, plus a helipad. There is also a fuel dock and boatyard area for maintenance and many workers around to clean and polish your boat, organise taxis and trips and fix sails or flags. The staff are welcoming, helpful and knowledgeable, and available every day of the week.

All the trolleys on the marina are 3 wheels and a good height. The Wifi is the best we have had anywhere, fast and free, which was great for catching up on blogs. Unfortunately that is not true for Shelter Bay, Panama which is slow on the phone or or wifi.

Currency and Income

According to the World Bank Colombia is one of the most unequal countries in the world with the 10% richest people having 46 times more money than the average of the other 90%. As you look around the town you can see indications of this disparity.

There are around 4000 Colombian Pesos to the USD. Hew felt for the first time in his life he was a millionaire twice in one day. As you may guess, although most things such as food items are cheap, the cash does not last long. The only country where we have taken out 1.5 million of the currency from an ATM.

We had two locals cleaning all the stainless on the yacht which was quoted as USD 250 a day’s work for two men – 1,000,000 Colombian pesos(COP). Lunch was 35 USD. 140,000COP. The ATM produces 50mille notes(50,000). The office told us that one American thought they were 50COP notes and was handing them out as tips- everyone was very happy until he discovered his error.

Colombian pesos get down to 100 peso coins as the smallest denomination – 2.5 US cents.

Lunch on the square

After getting some money from one ATM machine, the first only gave 300,000COP, so we had to go to another to get some more. Also, the banks and some of the ATM machines shut for lunch!! So we sat down to a long lunch on the square to await the opening of the banks.

Walk Around Town

Around the waterfront there are wide promenades and modern landscaping, but just off the waterfront you go to narrow old streets.

Around town there are mostly local tourists with a few foreigners like us. Local language is Spanish, not our strong point. Luckily we met a Swiss couple Gerald and Brigette. Gerald is an ex Swiss Air pilot, part Spanish, so fluent in Spanish plus fluent in French, German, and English as well.

Restaurant Area

There are many restaurants – most fairly small, seating 10-20.

Parks

Parque Bolivar has two monuments one to Simon Bolivar considered the liberator of Colombia and the other is the oldest fountain in Santa Marta built in 1848 – dedicated to Persephone.

Narrow Streets and Small Cars

Central City buildings

There are buildings of every sort in town and every style, old and new, vitorian, art deco, spanish. There seems to be a move to retain many of the old buildings for government offices which ensures their restoration and retention.

Boutique hotels

Art

Continuing the commentary on the street art in various countries, here is the local Santa Marta art. It is iinterting to observe all the local styles, and themes.

Dive trip, Isla de la Aguja

I was down looking for a courtesy flag and happened across a dive shop so we booked in and off we went to two dives sites near Isle de la Aguja. The water was rather murky due to the recent rain so I did not have high hopes of a good dive, but the soft and hard corals were fabulous. Both of the dives were “drift” dives in quite strong currents and the second dive, called “the exit” was all brain coral. Huge growths and a huge variety of colours. Unfortunately any photos at a distance were difficult due to the lack of clarity but here are a few photos that are reasonable. Usually the slower the dive the more you see, but in a drift dive you do not have much time to stay and look at one spotwithout being left behind, especially when the visibility is low!

Fish

Coral

The corals come in a huge variety of shapes and colours. When diving deeper you loose some of the colours. Close in (<30cm)the lights bring back the colours but further away they do not have much effect. Hence some of the larger picktures look as though they are lacking in colour. Also, although I have tried to name all the corals from interest, I am no expert and there could be errrors, if so please let me know.

Fire Corals

Branching Corals

Brain

Gorgonians – Soft Coral

Plate

Star Coral

Flower

Crayfish

Moray

Clam

Worm

Sponges

Vase

Most other dive sites the vase sponges were thin and delicate at this site, apart from some very small ones, they were huge and thick. Quite a different appearance.

Algae

Dinner in a local restaurant

When we got back from diving it was very hot so we spent the afternoon relaxing ahead of going out to dinner with Gerald and Brigitte. We had a recommendation for a good local restaurant for the next night so off we went to Quasimo. The art on the outside and the inside was done to reflect local activities and food and were very good. The menu was good and nice wine. Unfortunately, halfway through dinner Hew had to leave as he felt sick and later Gerald also had stomach problems. The next day we had booked a trip inland for all of us to Minca and neither of the boys could go. They both had the beef!!

Inland to Minca

The trip to Minca was by taxi to the town and then a new driver and 4WD for the rest of the trip. Minca was originally guerilla territory and was closed off to everyone, except locals. Following the ceasefire by the paramilitary and guerilla groups over the last several years, Minca was by backpackers and then eventually opened up to host visitors. Most of the visitors are still from Colombia, especially since Covid, all learning about their own country. Minca has a museum and many interesting sites in the surrounding hills but we only had time to do two waterfalls and La Victoria coffee plantation.

The rainforest was spectacular and very luscious. Apparently, it rains for about 2 hours every day and we saw that towards the end of the trip. Some of the trees and plants were huge – about twice the size we usually see for the same plant. The giant bamboo was enormous and planted along the edges of the steep roads to hold them up and stop slips. This is true rain forest country.

La Victoria Coffee Plantation

The plantation is 600 acres and 12 families live on the plantation full time. The electricity for the machinery in the plantation buildings and all the homes are supplied from a small hydro generator. Much of the machinery was installed around 1900 and is still operating today, lovingly maintained by the operators who are descendants of the original owners. The coffee is flavoured by the trees growing around the plants the Arabica coffee grown here is known for its slight mango favour. They also believe it is freshened with the sea breezes that flows up form the coast.

During the harvest the beans are hand picked and carried in the plastic bucket shown below. When this if full it weighs 14kg, and they then empty it into the wooden collection box. The large one when full contains 86kg of beans – a worker can fill 4-6 of these in a morning. Along with the families who live here there are usually 90 extra workers housed on the plantation for the harvesting.

From the trays the beans go into the sorter by water movement. All movement of the beans is by water pressure, then later air pressure using a venturi effect.

The top 20% of the beans are retained and roasted on the plantation under their label. The rest are sent to wholesalers. They grade into three levels, top, medium, and lower. The top beans are dried inside in the driers which takes 24 hours and the rest are dried outside which can take up to 4 days depending on whether it rains. In the smaller plantations they dry the beans in the roof of the houses. The humidity needs to be right – between 10-12%, too much and you get fungus and too little and there is less flavour.

Then the jelly is removed and quality checked – where they float in the water. The heavier the coffee bean the better quality. then the skin and sugar.

All the machinery is maintained by those working on the farm over the 8 months when there is no harvest. Although very old it s in beautiful condition.

They grow their own replacement plants. The plants will begin fruiting in three years and fruit for 15-20 years. They also grown their on fruit and vegetables on the plantaion.

All the parts of the plant that are not used go into the mulch including the pods, and the skins etc. The first stage of the mulch outside takes 8 months then it is hand cleaned and placed in the toughs seen undercover. When ready it is taken to drop off points by cart and then carried up around the plantation in back packs.

The plants flower in March and April for two days and the hills look white form all the flowers.

Swimming Holes – Pozo Azul

These two pools and the area around are very popular with the locals and people from Santa Marta. There are many restaurants in the area that cater to all the visitors, especially on the weekends. You can either walk down or pay for a motorcycle either to yourself or get a lift on one.

As mentioned earlier they use giant bamboo here to hold up the sides of the roads – it is very effective.

The swim in the pool was very refreshing after a long hot morning.

If a busload of tourists arrive they have to pay for a lifeguard service.

Waterfall Las Casadas de Marinka

This time we walked up to the waterfall and our driver stayed behind. We could see why later but it was worth it.

A selection of the flowers on the track. The area around the waterfall was well maintained.

Just as we were getting ready to leave the afternoon rain shower happened. It poured. We sat for about 45 minutes waiting for it to slowdown. We watched one of the staff pull the boards retaining the pool water out by hand just before the water flooded over the wooden decking. The pool was anoted as 1.2m when we swam in it, it rapidly rose about 60cm and as the shower was easing it was showing the gravel bottom in places. They obviously need the wooden dam for the number of visitors they have.

After that we just travelled back down the hill and then out to Santa Marta, unfortunately due to the delay with the weather we did not have time to stop in the town which we would have liked to and both of us were wet from the rain so decided to head straight back.

Departure

We reached the marina to find the boys were better but not brilliant. After delaying our departure for another day of resting, it was time to leave. Diesel was (USD 65c per litre) so we filled up expecting to have considerable motoring time on the next leg, and then set off for Panama with a forecast for little wind.

We hope to return to investigate Minca town again, the Tayrona National park, the bird watching and the lost city ruins. We would highly recommend the area.