Fakarava is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve site famous for its coral and diving on the North(Garuae) and South(Tetamanu) Passes. There was a warning on the charts and information to be careful as the dive boats operate in the pass. As we arrived in the morning at the north pass ( Garuae) to enter on slack tide we saw 5 dive boats at the entrance and not one of these were near the surfacing divers.

The north pass is wide and deep and larger ships and superyachts regular visitors. Currents of 5 or 6 knots however keep you on your toes with back eddies and little whirlpools.

We moved inside round to an anchorage right on the corner. Beautiful sand bottom and 5 other yachts there in the flat calm.

Information

The atoll is in the Pacific Ocean, part of the Tuamotu Archipelago, and holds UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status, alongside the atolls of Aratika, Kauehi, Niau, Raraka, Taiaro, and Toau. It spans 21km in width and 60km in length, making it the second-largest atoll in French Polynesia after Rangiroa.

Fakarava has a fascinating past. The Pōmare Dynasty originated here before ruling Tahiti.

European explorers first mentioned the atoll in the 19th century. Fakarava became a French territory, known for coconut oil production and mother-of-pearl trade.

Christianity arrived with a Catholic priest Honoré Laval leading to the construction of churches.The Rotoava church (blessed in 1850) and Tetamanu church (dating from 1874) stand as historical landmarks.

Anchoring

You are supposed to anchor in set areas so you do not destroy the coral but we found that the anchorages were not big enough for the number of yachts, and the buoy’s that should have been there in most cases weren’t.  When you anchor on the sand you are supposed to float your anchor so you do not get entangled in the bombies(coral heads) and do not damage them.

In order to achieve this you need suitable floats and of course these were available locally in the form of disused floats from the pearl farms which seemed wash up everywhere. However with our heavy anchor and 12mm chain the logistics of trying to float the chain as recommended was not so easy and we are still refining our technique and the quantity of floats required.

Rotoava

The next day we went to the anchorage outside Rotava, the largest and the northern town. We did not anchor in the designated area as there were to many boats already there so we anchored in the NE corner which is apparently for super yachts. There we found our Swiss friends Gerald and Bridget on Jetlag anchored alongside us. Having last seen them in Colombia nearly two years ago it was a great joy to see them. Lunch and a serious catchup was planned for the next day at Havaiki Lodge

The Town of Rotoava

We needed to go ashore to pay our tourist tax and garbage charge and had a short look around town. We found a small shop but discovered that fresh fruit and vegetables come in only once a week on Wednesday with the island trader. These are swiftly snapped up by the locals and cruising yachts. Tomorrow is Wednesday!

Fakarava Church Rotoava

The Fakarava Church is built from coral rock and cement and many of the internal fixtures are made locally.

As well as protestant services the Fakarava Church actively promotes environmental protection on Fakarava Island and in all of French Polynesia. Reverend Tekurio Temanu, the pastor of the church, is a fervent supporter of environmental preservation. He has advocated against overfishing, pollution, and other environmental problems that endanger the delicate ecosystem of the island. Reverend Temanu has also collaborated with local organizations to set up marine protected areas all around the island.

He received the Goldman Environmental Award, also known as the “Nobel Prize for the environment,” in 2010 for his diligent efforts to encourage environmental preservation on Fakarava Island and throughout French Polynesia. See more at https://farandawayadventures.com/fakarava-church/

Mururoa

Largely forgotten by the rest of the world the nuclear testing program at Mururoa and the environmental consequences still loom large in French Polynesian. With 193 tests, including 41 atmospheric tests, between 1966 and 1996. Most local Tahitians were exposed to high levels of radiation and have been affected with high incidences of cancers and birth defects linked to this. France still denies there is a problem and compensation has not been possible. There are multiple reports confirming the levels of exposure but the French government has continued to brush the problems under the carpet.

Read the excellent article in the Guardian in the link below which follows the history of fallout from the testing.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/mar/09/france-has-underestimated-impact-of-nuclear-tests-in-french-polynesia-research-finds?CMP=share_btn_url

On the plus side France has poured huge amounts of money and infrastructure into French Polynesia since the 1960’s and continues to subsidise most of the activities. Consequently the islands enjoy good roads, wharf’s, airports and regular shipping and transport as well as electricity and water supplies. There is also a good healthcare system and education to tertiary level is available to everyone. This infrastructure is way beyond most of their neighbouring pacific countries.

As with most French territories fresh baguettes and croissants are available daily on larger islands. Additionally daily flights from Paris ensure the supermarkets are well stocked cheeses and other fresh food from France.

Lunch

Havaiki Lodge is a glorious spot for lunch with tables on the sand surrounded by beautiful blue water. Good food, cold drinks, good company and friendly staff, perfect. https://www.tahiti.com/hotels/havaiki-lodge-fakarava-6543

It was great to see Gerald and Brigette again and we enjoyed a leisurely lunch catching up on each others adventures over the past couple of years. Gerald, a fellow retired pilot, and Brigette have fallen in love with French Polynesia and have decided to stay here so are in the process of importing their boat (paying the taxes). As French speaking Swiss they have fitted right into the local community and have been able to give us some good information on how the place works.

We discovered they had a friend arriving on the same flight as our friends the next day so we organised a ride on the same bus and lovely leis for all of them. A very helpful local the others knew organised all this for us

Children and Sharks

Walking back from lunch we came across a local family who had been picnicing on the edge of the lagoon. Stopping for a chat we saw there were a number of sharks in the shallows which they happily ignored as they cleaned their BBQ gear and a 2 or 3 year old child played in the shallows right next to them.

The black tip sharks and sleeping(nurse) sharks are all around the Fakarava Lagoon and the children feed them, play with them and swim with them. It occured to us that sharks in the shallows in NZ would see everybody out of the water!

Diving the North Pass

The following day we decided to dive with Top Dive in the northern pass. Mark had blocked sinuses and did not come so Hew and I set off with a local dive company. Our adventures began half way across the lagoon when one of the outboard motors lost drive to the propellor so we continued on one engine only.

The first dive started in shallow water outside the entrance and we swam back through the pass slowly getting deeper as we crossed into the main channel. The current was running strongly by now and at one stage we had to crab across the current holding on to the bottom before letting go and flying downstream with the scenery rushing past.

After a break in on the beach inside the atoll we ventured out for our second dive starting outside again but initially deeper as were to make our way up into the shallower pass. The instruction was to descend to 28-30m where we would find the wall to start coming up to around 15-18m in the pass. However with the currents and a choppy sea state the boat had dropped us further out than planned and at 30m we could neither see the bottom or the wall with several of the group going to nearly 40m before realising the depth they were at. In the end we did all manage to swim to the wall but we were unimpressed with the dive operator both on the drop off and also diving deeper on our second dive which is not good practice – we would not reommend them as an operator.

Unfortunately no photos as teh gopro was not working and I had problems with the older camera as well. However there are many more photos and video links in this blog, and on the Kiwiflyingfish Youtube channelhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfFESL5kPhUAsarowPnnLXg

Supply Ship arrives

The supply ship comes once a week on Wednesdays (weather permitting) and takes about two hours to unload. Everyone waits for its arrival and the fresh food it brings. Apart from coconuts and fish everything is imported so there are all sorts of things coming off the ship from building materials, gas bottles, furniture and vehicles.

As the main event of the week there are lots of people waiting for the ship with their orders and also outside the grocery shops for the fresh fruit and vegetables. The fruit and vegetables are gone as soon as they hit the shelves, likewise imported cheeses and anything else perishable. Outside the shop are some enterprising locals who also sell locally grown melon on the same day. Interestingly frozen meat is always available – mainly because it is so expensive.

Photo

Visitors Arrive

Two days later Simon and Liz turned up and Hew was excited to see them with a collection of spare parts from New Zealand. As our first NZ visitors since Panama they had to bring an extra bag just for boat bits, such is the cost of coming to visit us in remote locations!

Unfortunately the day they arrived all the restaurants were closed so we decided that we would go back to the anchorage that we had first been at the northern entrance. It was late in the day and not much time to explore but lovely for a swim and a walk ashore on the beach.

Baguettes

The weather forecast was not looking great for the next week and with southerly winds forecast we needed to move to the southern end of the atoll and shelter from the sea state if not the wind. The atoll is so big that the forecast 25-30 knots winds would build up to 2.5m waves at the anchorage at the northern end.

A foraging expedition went ashore in search of essential supplies to get us through next few days. Returning with croissants, baguettes,wine and tonic water we were ready to head south.

Hirifa

Next day off to Hirifa in the southeast corner. The trip down takes 4 hours and since it was the first time we had to be on watch to keep an eye out for bombies even in the marked channel. The charts are better than Raroia but we felt we could not entirely trust them. Sailing down on a pleasant breeze we were joined by several other boats heading to the same destination.

We anchored in good holding amongst a fleet of boats seeking the same shelter. The wind was still out of the west so the anchorage remained a bit bumpy as we waited for it to go round to the south and increase. It was very windy and ideal for kite surfers, wing foilers etc but not great for peaceful cruising. We went ashore for a look around but neither the restaurant nor the kite surfing facility seemed open. A walk along the beach for some exercise and we chatted to various fellow cruisers also exploring what was on offer.

Gerald, Bridget and Vereana on Jetlag had said they were coming down but had branched off to Tetamanu. The photos looked great but unfortunately if you were not a kite surfer then it really was windy. By now it was blowing 20-30kts and the kite surfers were loving it.

Tetamanu

After talking to Bridget and Gerald we decided to go to Tetamanu and explore the South Pass. It was still just as windy but they said it was Ok sheltered behind the little islands. We found shelter behind the reef and decided to explore the famed South Pass.

Snorkelling Tetamana South Pass

The plan was to snorkel on the incoming tide so we got in the dingy and Hew said he would be boatman. Since this was Liz and Simons’s first experience with drift diving in a current and we hadn’t snorkelled here yet either we were excited about what we would find. Everyone snorkels on the incoming tide as it is clear with fresh incoming water from the open sea, on the slack tide it can be murky and an outgoing tide is just not a good idea! As the tidal changes are not very accurately forecast the cruisers all wait for the local operators to go out then leap in their dinghys and follow.

Starting out in shallow water out of the current we were surrounded by little black tip sharks and remora doing their thing. It was then off downstream in the current which increased as we swam downstream until we reached the shallows a few hundred meters. Lots of excitement with the swimmers so it was back upstream for a repeat performance.

Video:Tetamanu drift snorkelling https://youtu.be/vHN52l63g-k

The local dive operator was located in the South Pass with a 5 minute boat ride to the dive sites in the pass. Noting they seemed to have a bar and restaurant we enquired about a booking but as the pensions here were full of divers and could not serve any food to non-guests. Such are the issues of operating tourism ventures with irregular supply deliveries.

Tetamanu Village

The next day we dicided to have a look around the town while we were waiting for the tide and more snorkelling. The village is quite small but was once the capital of the Tuamotos.

There is a very pretty old church made from coral dating from 1874

Central Channel

As the weather had improved we decided to head north again this time up the central channel which is relatively well marked on the charts. This time we sailed on a genoa up the centre channel just behind Jetlag. This was a good ride with not many bombies until the last quarter when suddenly Jetlag veered at right angles in front of us as they had almost run into some pearl farm buoys. For the next 30 mins we saw many buoys in that section of the channel.

Back in Rotoava

Back up north we discovered that the restaurants were only open on Thursday to Sunday so no dinner out.

On Tuesday Liz, Simon, and Mark set off on a bike ride with Bridget and Vereana and then met up at Havaiki Lodge for lunch. The same restaurant we had dined in earlier. Hew was very excited to be able to complete some repairs with the parts Liz and Simon had bought with them

They cycled from town to the end of the northern spit, then back against the wind. Liz was not impressed especially in the exposed area around the airport. They aimed to find the Taputavaka and Topoka lighthouse ruins but only found one. They all made it back for lunch where Hew, Gerald and I caught up with them later.

Pufana Rock

The next day the wind was still blowing but we decided we should do one more snorkel before they went home so we tied up to the buoy at Pufana rock this was spectacular snorkelling as well and a great mooring – solid chain. Here are a few photos of the snorkeling and a video: https://youtu.be/R1rm16cb-YI

We headed back to the town for the night as Liz and Simon were going the next day.

In the morning Liz and I went for walk along the waterfront. We found by accident the other lighthouse that they had not seen the day before because it was not in the right place on the map. We also afound one of the Pearl farm shops but it was all clsoed.

Liz and Simon departed that afternoon. Mark and Hew and I stayed the night to have a meal at the local restauarant Hirinaki Lodge that had happy hour and tapas. https://www.facebook.com/TemoanaRangihei/

The next day we headed back down to Hirifa because we had decided that we had to do the dive in the South Pass at Tetamanu before we left . It is rated as one of the top dive sites in the world.

Raimiti

Enata Diving

The dive shop was based at Raimiti just north of Hirifa. The next morning they collected us from the yacht and we had a great dive. The first dive started on the Eastern side of the channel and then crossed over the deepest area onto the western side. They stopped between dives at the little beach at Tetamanu for snacks and a drink, and an explanation of the next dive drawn in the sand. then straight back into the water the second we went to the “viewing room” which is a small cave to watch the sharks go by, then finishing around the corner where we had also finished our snorkelling previously.

The best diving we have had for a while with lots of fish life and on the second dive more sharks than we have ever seen!! Excellent dive operators who were all alot of fun. Enata diving operation link https://www.enatafakaravadiving.com/en/

Tetamanu Pass Dive Video: https://youtu.be/E8BopO_okyk

Raimiti Lodge

After getting back to the yacht then washing the dive gear and changing our clothes, we decided to go to Raimiti Resort for a drink. What a beautiful resort and what a surprise, it is perfectly placed for the sunsets. https://raimiti-fakarava.com/en/homepage-en/

Once again they were unable to supply food for outsiders as they only catered for guests, perhaps we will go back and stay there sometime. A very beautiful laid back little resort.

After two days it was tiime to head out for Huahine and the Society Islands.

Next blog: Huahine

Rugged Coast

As soon as you depart the channel the size and isolation of the terrain on the north side of the island is obvious and very beautiful. The following are just some of the photos we took to give you an idea of the size of the country which is huge, rugged, and undisturbed. The area reminded us of Fiordland although a little warmer. We did not find many other cruising boats as most just head north from Chaguaramas straight up to Grenada.

La Vache Bay

We stopped in La Vache Bay for the night, this was a huge bay with only two other fishing boats there and only a few rock fishermen.

Maracas Bay and Beach

Maracas Bay is one of the most famous beaches in Trinidad and is situated on a spit at the end of a river gulley below some spectacular hills. From the distance, there appears to be little housing but it is all nestled in the bush and only obvious closer in. There is a huge circular bay with the main beach to the southeast of the entrance and then several smaller beaches abound the edges of the bay with the main fisherman village to the South western end. It we had had more time we could have stayed and had a look around – maybe next time.

Also seen along the coast are all the coastal monitoring stations. North Coast Radio covers the area up to Grenada which includes the gas and oil rigs in the area.

Birds

There were many places along the coast where we watched the Pelicans and Frigate Birds – sometimes in competition with each other. Below are a few passing shots

Sailing across to Tobago meant motoring up the North Coast until we could get a good wind angle across Galleon Passage to Tobago. A distance of only 30 miles but we needed to avoid a large reef Drew Bank and Wasp Shoal at the Tobago end which were notorious for shipwrecks in the past. The charts showed depths of 6 meters with notes that considerably less water had been reported including breaking shoals – avoid the area! This area is littered with old sailing shipwrecks and legend has it many of them Spanish Galleons laden with treasure returning to Europe.

We had a great sail across with 15-20 knots of breeze on a tight reach, our first real sail for some months, it was good to blow out some cobwebs. We passed just north of the reefs and yes did see breaking water, a trap for the unwary as they are right on the rumb line from Trinidad to Tobago.

Next Blog: Tobago

A Private Paradise

The sail across from Bequia was short and uneventful although we were hard on the wind as the island is on the outermost eastern edge of the Grenadines. We were not sure what to expect but we were welcomed by the harbourmaster who guided us to a mooring in the bay. Anchoring is not allowed and there 30 or 40 mooring bouys available.

Dianne and I had read a book by Colin Tennant’s wife about the island and then decided we should go and have a look. The book is called “Lady in Waiting: My Extraordinary Life in the Shadow of the Crown”.https://www.publishersweekly.com/9780306846366 It is an autobiography by Anne Glenconner, who was a lady-in-waiting to Princess Margaret and a close friend of the royal family. The book was published in 2019 and is an interesting read both for the comments on Mustique and for the observations on her life and marriage.

History

Mustique is one of a chain of volcanic islands formed by the collision of the Atlantic and Caribbean tectonic plates. The island covers an area of 1,400 acres (5.7 km2) and has several coral reefs that provide habitat for marine life.

The history dates back to the pre-Columbian era when it was inhabited by indigenous people who arrived from South America around 2500 BC. Later, it was occupied by the Arawaks and then by the Caribs, who left behind some simple tools that can still be found on the island.

The first European settlers arrived on Mustique in the 17th century when the island was claimed by France. The name Mustique comes from the French word for mosquito, moustique, as the island was once infested with these insects. The French established sugar and cotton plantations on the island, using enslaved African labor. The island changed hands several times between France and Britain during the colonial wars, until it was finally ceded to Britain in 1763. The British built three forts on the island to protect it from pirates and invaders.

However, after the abolition of slavery in 1834, the plantations went downhill and in 1958, it was purchased by Colin Tennant, 3rd Baron Glenconner, a Scottish aristocrat and entrepreneur. At the time it was a desolate island covered in shrubs, cacti, and jungle with no natural water, roads, or jetty. Tennant had a vision of transforming Mustique into a private paradise for the rich and famous.

He gave a 10-acre plot of land on the island as a wedding gift to his friend Princess Margaret, the sister of Queen Elizabeth II, who built a villa called Les Jolies Eaux. Tennant also invited other celebrities and royals to buy or rent villas on the island, creating a very exclusive community

In 1979, Tennant sold his shares in Mustique to a consortium of villa owners, who formed the Mustique Company to manage the island’s affairs. The company is responsible for maintaining the island’s infrastructure, security, environment, and services. The company also owns and operates the only hotel called the Cotton House.
The company also runs a beach café and another restaurant called the Veranda. The company also offers ferry service from Saint Vincent on the M/V Endeavour².

Current Day

Today, Mustique remains a private island that is owned by its homeowners. There are around 120 villas on the island, many of which are available for rent through the Mustique Company https://mustique-island.com/about/the-company. The villas come with staff, including chefs, butlers, and housekeepers, who cater to every need of the guests. The villas also have access to amenities such as tennis courts, golf carts, horses, and water sports equipment. Mustique is an ideal destination for those who seek privacy, tranquility, and luxury.

You can only go to the island if you are staying at one of the accommodation options. The island has nine beaches that offer pristine sand and turquoise water. Some of the beaches are secluded and quiet, while others are more lively and social. The island also has a network of trails that allow visitors to explore its natural beauty and wildlife. The island is home to tortoises, herons, iguanas, and many other species. The island also hosts various events throughout the year, such as music festivals, cocktail parties, and charity fundraisers.

The island has a reputation for being discreet and respectful of its guests’ privacy.

Privacy
Mustique is a private island that is owned by its homeowners, who have formed the Mustique Company to manage its affairs. The Mustique Company has the authority to grant or deny access to the island and its waters, as well as to impose fees and charges for various services.

Before you go to Mustique you need to obtain permission from the Mustique Company before entering the island’s waters. You can contact them by phone, email, or VHF radio. You will need to provide information such as your boat name, registration number, flag, length, draft, number of passengers and crew, arrival date and time, departure date and time, and intended anchorage or mooring location. You need to clear customs and immigration into the Grenadines at either St. Vincent or Union Island before sailing to Mystique but you can clear out of Mystique at the airport.

You need to pay a mooring fee of US$75 per night for boats up to 60 feet in length, and US$150 per night for boats over 60 feet in length for a minimum of three nights. The mooring fee includes very well-maintained moorings in Britannia Bay, access to water, garbage disposal, security patrols, and dinghy dock facilities. You can pay the mooring fee at the Mustique Company office or at Basil’s Bar.

You must respect the island’s rules and regulations while sailing and staying on Mustique. These include observing the speed limit of 5 knots within the harbor area, keeping a safe distance from other boats and swimmers, avoiding anchoring or fishing in prohibited areas, refraining from loud music or noise after 10 pm, respecting the privacy of the villa owners and guests by only going on land in the allowed areas which are very small, and following the environmental guidelines for waste disposal and conservation. You can get a tour of the island by taxi but it only takes about one hour as there is not much you can see.

You need to book any activities or services that you wish to enjoy on Mustique through the Mustique Company. These include dining at restaurants, visiting the spa, playing tennis or golf, renting water sports equipment, taking island tours or taxi rides, or attending any events or parties.

Arriving in Britannia Bay

We went ashore to book the restaurant at Basils Bar https://basilsbar.com/ and found there were few other people there. There were some in the bar from a couple of charter yachts in the harbour but only one other couple for dinner. Very quiet for a place that has a reputation for parties. Perhaps we were there the wrong day of the week or the wrong season!!

Since you can’t go more than 100 meters on the island without a guide on the first day we just snorkelled and rested. There was no hurry as we had paid for three days and we were not sure how we were going to fill the time.

Island Tour

On the second day Di, Pete, and I took a taxi tour. The island was very neat and tidy, manicured in all the public spaces, but you could see very little of the private houses except distant views.

Public Areas

Area Around the Airport

The airport was interesting as the runway was like a banana, curved up at both ends. There was a reasonable terminal but only turboprops came in. I checked out of there as our next stop would be Carriocou which is part of Grenada and the checkout was friendly and easy.

Houses and Mansions

Here are a few photos to give you an idea of the layout but if you would like to have a closer look go to the Mustique company website https://mustique-island.com/villa/

The Terraces on the top of Mustique is the largest villa there and sits on 17 acres of land.

Macaroni Beach

Macaroni Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches and is in a very natural setting with smaller villas peppered in the hills above. Most of the bush is allowed to stay natural and it is all interspersed with the Flamboyant tree a favourite of the islands.

Macaroni Beach

There is a local village just to the north of the wharf with a small town but we did not visit it while we were there. Many of the workers on the island come in live on other islands and commute by ferry for extended work shifts.

The friendliest individuals on the island were the laughing gulls who visited us most days. One decided it particularly liked the Starlink dish.

The snorkelling was not bad but not very exciting. I went out further to the reef but the water was murky and the reef was really bare. A few schools of fish but again not very exciting.

The sunset on the last evening before we left was spectacular with large buildups in the distance.

Departing

As we left the next morning I wanted to take some more photos but it was directly into the sun so not have much luck. We did pass the large solar energy installation which was interesting as many islands only have diesel generators, a few have wind generators and solar is only just appearing.

Overall we found that the visit was interesting but we would not return.

Next Blog: The Outer Islands

On the trip over from Saint Martin Pete had tried to fish but the sailing was good and we were going too fast again. He did catch a barracuda but we through that back in.

Arrival

Arriving in Gustavia, the capital of Saint Barts, we were delighted to find the easy check-in procedure, typical of the French islands. The warm and friendly welcome made us feel instantly at ease, allowing us to start our exploration without any hassle. However, due to the windy and bumpy conditions just outside the entrance channel in the anchorage area, we decided to continue on to Colombier Bay for a calmer anchorage.

Colombier Bay

Anchoring in tranquil Colombier Bay we found ourselves surrounded by lush vegetation and pristine waters creating a very picturesque setting to relax in for the evening.

The following day, Di and I set off on a trek from Colombier Bay to a patisserie. We had only vaugue instructions about a track and could find no signs on the beach. We then asking the advice of another lady on the track and she told us there was only a subdivision if we went straight up the hill but we might find a shop if we followed the track to Plage de Flamands, along the Colombier Beach Trail. The trail led us through a variety of landscapes, from bare rock with breathtaking coastal views, to later some nice bush and a far better track at the end. We also came upon a man practicing yoga with his dog, and some morning walkers.

The hike was much more than we had expected and we could not find a shop so we continued along the beach to a hotel and then asked the way. They indicated 5-10 mins straight up the hill – literally. Off we again and some 20 minutes later found St Jean village and a charming patisserie. The aroma of freshly baked pastries greeted us, and with a coffee and water we sat down for a late but well deserved breakfast.

To complete the walk, we followed the Route de Colombier road back to the lookout point. From there, we were treated to a stunning panoramic view of the island, with its red roofed houses, green hillsides and sparkling blue waters.

As we descended along the trail, through much more vegetation than the other side, we encountered the cute red toed land tortoises, native doves and the giant rock formations, all part of the island’s natural scenery.

Our dingy was still there after our 3 hour trek it seemed to be dwarfed by the house at the top of the hill. – We couldn’t wait to get to the water and have a swim.

Gustavia

After spending 3 nights in Colombier Bay we decided we needed to visit the town before we left and so headed back to Gustavia. We also needed to check the rigging and do a minor repair behind the anchor locker where the anchor seemed to have hit the hull several times just behind the anchor locker. We checked into the quayside and with few boats there we could go alongside.This was much better than the rocking rolling anchorage outside the town but there was still a lot of water movement. A trip up the mast confirmed that all was well and then Hew and I spent an hour in the dingy doing a temporary plaster of several holes in the hull. I was trying to hold the dingy steady while Hew tried to do a smooth patch job – needless to say with the wind and water movement it was more like artistic plastering.

After the plastering we headed off to have a look around the shops. All top end, famous labels and very expensive prices. Di and I managed to resist the urge during the day but later that night Pete and Hew found some shorts they couldn not resist and Di bought a new swim suit. The shops and contents were certainly beautiful to look at.

Evening

We had drinks on the boat before dinner and watched the activities in the harbour such as a super yacht parking on the other side of the harbour to us and backing in all the way. He had to go stern to due to the number of other yachts on that side.As the sun was going down the moon was coming up.

We decided one day in town was enough for us and we departed the next day for St Kitts and Nevis. WE enjoyed Saint Barts and would probably go again because it is very different from the other islands and there was definitely more to see and more places to go.

After leaving Saint Barts we sailed past the following two islands that we did not have time to stop at.

Saba

Saba is a very small and tall volcanic island rising straight out of the sea. Saba has a land area of 13 square kilometres (5.0 sq mi) and a population of 1900. There is one anchorage in the shelter of the island then further around there is a landing and a few moorings. There is a very steep road or walking track up to the town which is sheltered in the centre of the island. We did not have time to stop but friends of ours did and loved the place so we will return at some stage for a look around.

Eustatia

Locally know as Statia it was formerly part of the Netherlands Antilles, Sint Eustatius became a public body of the Netherlands in 2010. It is part of the Dutch Caribbean, which consists of Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao, Saba, Sint Eustatius, and Sint Maarten. Bonaire, Eustatia and Saba,  form the BES Islands, and are also referred to as the Caribbean Netherlands. Most of the beaches are supposed to be black sand and the largest private employer on the island is the oil terminal owned by GTI Statia.

Next Blog : Saint Kitts and Nevis

Maho Beach

We decided we had to come and see this tourist attraction and it didn’t disappoint. You cannot anchor near here due to the approach/departure path of the airport. Between watching the aeroplanes coming in and out and watching the photographers getting thrown across the beach it was a lot of fun. Despite all this, it is a beautiful beach. There is a large casino and hotel to the north side with a restaurant close to the beach which we tried out called Tortuga. There is also a real beach bar – the Driftwood Boat Bar.

On the other end, there are several other restaurants which you can watch from. They will serve cocktails and food in takeaway containers so you can go down to the beach to be closer to the action.

The rocks below the bars and restaurants contain several birds that seem totally unmoved by all the activity and noise.

Road Trip

When we asked what was good to go and look at there were only two places that were recommended one was Loterie Farm and the other was Parrot Ville. On the way there we thought we should stop in Philisburg the main town on the Dutch side. The area has many of the big retail shops/chain stores as well.

Philipsburg

This trip was the first time that we had been to the Dutch side – other than the area around the marina. Philipsburg is a cruise ship town. It is dead if there are none there which was the case this weekend and so it was very quiet when we walked around and all the shops were either shut or had about 5 staff and no patrons. There is quite a pretty beach and the boardwalk caters to tourists as does the first street back from the beach so it was all very quiet even at 10am. Here are a few photos to give you an idea of the town.

The electricians who were working on the alternators on the yacht were out racing in trimarans this weekend so here are a few pictures of the yachts.

Parrotte Ville

Parrotte Ville is privately owned and operated https://www.facebook.com/parotteville/. It is a very low-key large aviary in one of the suburbs of Philipsburg. They give you a small cup of seeds to feed the birds and the birds can hold onto the edge of the cup so they are quite happy. They are very friendly birds and if you don’t move much they will climb all over you. I had to give Hew my cup as I was trying to take photos but the birds were happy to come and talk to me anyway. At one stage Hew had 5 birds on him. It was great fun and very relaxing to see so many happy friendly birds.

There is a viewing platform in the middle of the aviary and some of the birds like to hang out underneath it. You can see parts of it in the pictures. There were many forms of climbing frames and ropes for the birds to play on. There were also birdhouses all around the enclosure and many had been opened or had the entries made larger by various birds to suit themselves. There was also a lot of vegetation in the gage similar to Taro plants that they both used as shade and occasionally nibbled on. The guide for the days says they do not usually wreck the plants as they just regrow so a good one to have.

The Toucan is kept in a separate enclosure because it is a meat eater and the meat attracts rats and mice. Funnily there were lizards in the Toucan enclosure as well and they did not seem particularly concerned. His favourite place is under a table, probably for the shade.

Loterie Farm

Loterie Farm https://loteriefarm.com/ is a private nature reserve of 54 Hectares on the french side. There are walking tracks, a zip line, swimming pools, and a restaurant. It was midday by the time we got there and we felt it was too hot to go walking so we just took in the restaurant with a nice lunch, a lovely cocktail, and a large iguana walking over the roof. We then had a relaxing couple of hours around the pool for our afternoon siesta.

Sundays

We decided last week that we would get a rental car as we had several jobs to do that needed to go all over the island.

Since it was Sunday and all the shops are shut or shut at lunchtime we thought we would go out for a late brunch and then onto the beach. We walked around Marigot town and it was empty and only new thing was another painted wall I hadn’t seen before. I love the street art you find in these islands and wonder why we do not make more use of our blank walls in New Zealand.

We finally found an open cafe for breakfast near the airport. We then headed up the coast past Maho to find a beach. After driving up and then back down the coast past many gated communities we finally went and had a swim at Mullet Bay beach. A lovely beach and surprisingly sheltered. It is one bay over from Mahoe so you can still see the arriving aircraft. It has a very steep sand bank at the moment. There is only a small beach bar and no big development like Maho. The beach is backed by a golf course which I assume has kept it from becoming totally developed.

Iguanas

On Monday Hew needed to get a new gas bottle and fittings as our Italian ones could not be fitted here and we couldn’t find adaptors so off to Philipsburg again. We managed to get all the parts and a bottle at one stop. Just down the road, we watched as a huge Iguana near the bus stop decided to move out of the sun and up the hill. the Iguanas are very common around the island and often sun themselves on the rocks around the bridges. Their colour really depends on their background. You can see the difference between these two photos and the one above at Loterie farm which was very green being on a very leafy tree.

We also needed sheets and went to a great store called Cost for Less which was very like Costco in the USA – everything in bulk. We decided that we really did need a list so we did not buy anything extra and left the shopping for another day.

Seamog

Matt and Jo friends from the South Island who we met cruising last year had turned at the end of the week. We had a lovely dinner at Dock 46 with them on Friday. Then on Tuesday, they needed to come into the marina and since it was fairly full they tied up alongside. They too are off to Europe.

It looks like it is going to be a social week again.

The alternators are finally in and the belts arrive today. We are expecting Di and Pete tomorrow and to be off the dock the day after. I hope all will go as planned.

Ronde Island

Halfway between Grenada and Carriacou is Ronde Island. This was a great anchorage to stop for the night and have a snorkel/dive. Chris and Rose on Ari were there ahead of us. The anchorage is a bit rolly but worth it for the scenery and clear water.

Carriacou

Sailing from Grenada north the first inhabited island that you reach is Carriacou. The southernmost harbor is Tyrell Bay which was full of yachts when we arrived and also many derelicts and wrecks. The island is renowned for its boatbuilding with its traditional Carriacou sloop easily recognizable around the Caribbean. When we first arrived we decided to stop gave a look then anchor outside at Lime Kiln Bay. There was only one other boat slightly south of us. Nev and I set off snorkelling and found our first flying gurnard amongst the seagrass and our first peacock flounder. We also found a nest of crayfish. We could not take these as it was locals only. Nev was limited to taking photos and he was so upset that he was shaking with the first few, but he gradually got an idea of how to get good photos, however, he really did not feel it was as much fun as catching them.

It has two very small marinas, several shops, and cafes.

Towards the end of our stay at Sandy island, we went for a dive with the local guys at the two sisters. The soft corals were huge and magnificent and it was one of the best dives we did in our cruising.

Sandy Bay and Paradise Beach Bar

Sandy Island was our first stop after Tyrell Bay. It is run by the park so there are moorings but you can still anchor on sandy patches – if you don’t like the look of the moorings. they still charge you for a night’s stay and snorkeling.

Opposite Sandy Island is Paradise Beach Club.https://www.facebook.com/p/Paradise-Beach-Club-Carriacou-100063786595743/ A really lively little bar and restaurant that has survived COVID-19 by running a great taxi service. Give them a call and they will come and collect you off the boat and deliver you home afterward. They have a painting night on Wednesdays – where you can paint the name of your boat on a piece of wood and it will be attached to the wall along with all the others. This has become so popular that they are now on some walls and all the external fences. They also have live music some nights and dancing if they can get the patrons up on the floor.

Neville felt that he had to get into the floor show as well and lend a hand!

Nev’s Birthday

We decided that since it was Nev’s birthday we would have a party at the Paradise beach bar but we had had a really good time there only two days before and we had been at Sandy island too long, so we looked around for a lovely bay. The wind was still blowing 20-25kts so we needed somewhere that was sheltered and had no swell. Well, off we went to Anse La Roche. A lovely bay at the northern end of Carriacou. It had a lovely Sandy beach and bar so we settled in for lunch and a siesta.

But then we heard from our friends that it would be too rolly at night for them in a monohull so we decided to go and hide behind Jack Aden’s Island. This is a tiny island north of Sandy island but it has a big reef and was very calm. Then we settled in for the night with Ari beside us and birthday dinner on the table.

Petit Martinique

We found a good anchorage close to town in amongst all the fishing boats. The boats were well looked after, painted many colours and so were the houses ashore. For a very small island, it was tidy, clean, and quiet. We were told to come back for their regatta later in the year.

The houses and buildings were tidy and painted in many colors. There were also some great little (tiny) beach bars along the beach and along the main road.

Fishing is the main industry of Petit Martinique followed by boat building and inter-island freight trading. Boats and the sea are in the blood of these people as it’s their livelihood.

After emancipation, several Scottish and Irish sailors and shipwrights migrated to Petit Martinique. Their skills were carefully observed and learned by the locals. It was also observed that fishing, boat building, and the cargo trade were far more lucrative than farming on the limited land available. Today boat building and fishing remain the main activities of Petite Martinique.

Boat building is a tradition on this island and they start building them when they are young men, and each builds their own boat.

Boat launching is special so there is a bit ceremony which you can read about at https://gov.gd/petite-martinique-most-unique-and-charming-tiny-island-seafaring-souls

The Piton Hill Walk

We decided we needed to get off the boat and go for a walk so off we went. We needed to get groceries so a short track on the way looked like a good idea – only 1.5 km so it should be easy. Unfortunately, it went steeply uphill and we hadn’t taken any water and, in my case, no hat so by the time we got to the top we were very hot and thirsty. But the view was worth it.

Mopion & Punaise

After leaving Petit Martinique it was off to Saint Vincent & the Grenadines. On the direct route, you pass two little sand banks called Mopion & Punaise so we had to go for a snorkel on these. Some of these photos are from Nev’s camera, and Neville features prominently as Man Friday!

The Queen Conch trade is still very strong in the islands where there are still some remaining but many of the fisheries have been completely destroyed. Unfortunately it is a big income for the fisherman and the government so although there have been meetings to try and restrict trade or legislate for limits they still have not worked. We saw several islands covered with conch shells all with a small hole where the flesh had been removed, it is not surprising the fishery has been destroyed.

After a lovely day spent snorkeling and diving there we then proceeded to Union Island part of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

We arrived at 2am into Las Palmas marina and parked on the reception berth. Slept till 6am expecting to have to move but told not to worry until the office opened.

At 9am had all the paperwork done but apparently two boats needed to be shifted for us to get into our berth. 10 am we finally berthed.

The marina has 1250 berths at very reasonable prices and also handles the mooring area outside which is also full at the moment. All those on moorings or in the bay can also apply to the office to get cards for the showers and toilets.

Viking Explorer Seminars

We lept off the boat and went off to the Viking Explorer welcome and first seminar.

Embarcardo Lunch

Having finished the seminars and feeling hungry we adjourned to the closest restaurant – The Embarcardohttps://restauranteembarcadero.com/. At the time we did not realise that it was probably the best in town and we wouldn’t find a better one. Three hours later and many laughs with the Manager we left for a siesta!!!!

Las Palmas Harbour

The harbour is huge with room for marinas, cruise ships – large and small, oil drilling rigs, container ships and the Navy. Fishing boats are all shapes and sizes and all flags: Belize, China, Japan, Korea, Spain….. On land there is maintenance facilities plus an aquarium.

Beaches

There are beaches both sides of the peninsula. There are very nice walkways and cycle ways all along both areas of beach and through town. The first is next to the Marina.

The other one to the north side is good for surf and very touristy.

Also at the eastern end of the beach there are a huge area of sand sculptures

Saint Lucy’s Day – First Party Hosted by the Swedish Boats

Shortest Day Celebration – Saint Lucy’s Day – hosted by the Swedish members of the Viking Explorer group.

Beautiful Old Town Las Palmas

The week of seminars concluded and Carlota who organises the Viking Explorer group took us on a walk through the old part of Las Palmas. The architecture was interesting but so too we’re the shops which are all international labels pitched at international tourists. The total income to the island is 95% tourism. The streets are beautiful to walk around due to the beautifully paved areas and very few vehicles. As you will see from the photos the paving is all different and very effective.

For those who are interested in local prices here are some photos of the local market.

Covid and Rule Changes

For the first week the rules were masks only inside. Week two just before Christmas the rules changed to masks everywhere. They are also giving boosters to everyone over 60 so Hew and I were both able to get our booster vaccination shots here at no cost. Very good efficient service.

The ARC Rally

Even though the ARC rallys leave also leave from LAs Palmas we have not heard much about them until the other day. The news of the November rally losing a sailer and two boat did make it through but more interesting was a discussion had by one of the Viking cruisers with the local chandlery. He was trying to replace a Dan buoy that wouldn’t fit the back of his boat due to the wind geenrator being in the way and was told they didn’t take returns on safety gear. Big signs all over the windows. The reason being that ARC participants must pass a safety test before they can leave – they come in and buy everything they are missing or have to replace. Then when they pass the check they try and return the new gear!!! Unbelievable that some people would pay so much to join a rally then skimp on their own safety gear!!

Well back to work getting the yacht ready:

Next Bog : Inland Grand Canaria

Rob and Virginia were our next guests and since they arrived late in the day we stayed at Agia Pelagia and all went out for dinner in the nearby taverna under a windmill. A beautiful evening to welcome them onto the yacht.

The next day it was off to Zakynthos and the famous Shipwreck Beach – a must-see on all the Greece travel guides. Well, the beach and cove are beautiful, it has spectacular cliffs and a cave to swim through, but it is swarming with visitors – thousands each day coming in ferry loads of over 200 a time!!!! Ourselves and the other yachts all got in early and then you could see the motorboats coming down the coast with their wakes – ferries of all sizes, and the big ones have their own spot on the bach. There is a roped-off area so you can sit down if you want to! the bigger ferries all feel they have to blow their horns going in and out!! The chaos and noise are hard to describe. Private boats coming squeeze in where they can on one side – some far too close to others and the ferries hoot at anyone they think is in their way – even if they are not!! I have tried to capture it all below but probably should have taken a video.

From there we slowly meandered our way down the west coast of Zakynthos looking at all the lovely inlets and beaches for those above the water.

All the great caves for those in the water. Many of the caves have names e.g. Heart Cave, Poseidon’s Face, Secret blue cave. The above water crew often got as beautiful colours as the swimmers. The swimmers could have spent all day going down the coast and go back again – it was great.

The yacht crew had to keep an eye when picking us up as we could be in 15 m of water and then suddenly there would be a pinnacle. This one was just outside of one of the cave complexes in the gap between an island and the mainland.

We looked into Porto Vromi but too full, then we pulled into the north inlet of a tiny harbour of Porto Steniti for lunch, tour boats were dropping people off here but not so many. Beautifully clear water.

Following lunch, we also tried to stop for a swim in Porto Limnionas but full of people and although two inlets there it was full of swimmers and roped off below the taverna so more set up for land swimmers than yachts. Where the was space it was too deep.

The final cave swim for the day was in the south side thorough one cave and then back through another for Barb and Di.

We missed the tiny Korakonsi port and its cave as it was getting late in the day.

That night we stopped at the edge of the Marine Park at the southern end of Zakynthos, near Keri and hoped to see some turtles but didn’t see any – they seem very shy.

Next morning it was off to Kefalonia east coast on the way north again.