Nearly all the Viking Explorer group left together. Sadly one yacht got a positive covid test and all aboard had to isolate. A second yacht had a medical issue and needed to postpone for another year. Two further boats delayed their departure to wait for lower winds.

We departed expecting 25-30kts from NE and we got 30G40. Seas 2-3m. The ride was a rough but exhilarating roller coaster for the first day. Max wind was 40.6kts and max boats speed 20.2kts – the fastest we have ever gone and that was with 2 reefs on main and similar on the Genoa. Over several hours we were regularly getting 16-18kts down the swells.

All was good until we needed to gybe and, unfortunately, it was a bad one. We did not know how bad until dawn the next day when Hew was looking at the boom under the mainsail cover and saw the dent/ bend.

We reduced to a third reef and then after further consideration dropped the main and continued hull winged on Genoa and storm jib. A good combination and a good ride downhill.

Later in the day, we were visited by a large pod of dolphins who had a great time jumping and during in the waves. About 50-50 individuals with babies but the pod did not hang around close to the bows but rather darted in and out across the bows and down the waves.

The following is rather long and unfortunately no music yet but the video shows some of the antics of the dolphins in the later afternoon. https://youtu.be/c1HXg6gdcUU

Day three and the wind was decreasing to we ran the spinnaker all day and night. Very pleasant.

No sailing incidents but Hew decided to be the cook for the night and during the preparation managed to fire the Pyrex dish out of his hands and down the stairs ensuring a spectacular explosion of glass pieces everywhere!! So much for a quiet night!!

On day four the wind dropped slowly all day. We had to drop the spinnaker and motor-sailed half the day with the Genoa and then with the dying wind dropped the Genoa as well.

It was a lovely day and all were relaxing and doing the washing and tidying up. I had sent an update email to the yacht Copepod to say all the water sampling was going well and we must catch up at the next stop.

The next minute Mark comes in with a very sheepish look on his face to say he had just thrown the sampling tube overboard!!!!! Adding to the plastic waste in the ocean. It has a hook to attach it while you are collecting the water but he decided not to do that grrrr. No more sampling until we can get a new one. His new nickname “Dr. Dolittle”!!!

Next, another pod of dolphins turned up – as soon as some got here others rushed in from as far as you could see. This time they all hung close under the bows of the boat and jostled for the price positions. Very unlike the behaviour of the other lot two days earlier.

They departed after about 30 min and it was lunch. The fisherman has been very quiet but he has had three lines out every day and only one nibble. Anyway out he goes after lunch to find he had lost a lure and never even heard it!!! Problem with bungee cords on nylon and no steel trace. … No more fish seen that day 🙁

That night we decided with one day to go we should all watch a film with dinner so sit down to Bohemian Rhapsody!!

The next day we were all relaxing and suddenly Mark yelled “fish”!! Pete lept up to make sure it was true, Nev came rushing up out of bed, cameras came out – in case it jumped off. It was a beautiful blue Mahi-mahi or Dorado as they call it here. It is so beautiful in the water it is sad to see it caught.

Anyway, it was lovely to have sashimi for entré and fried fish for dinner, then poisson cru the next day.

Tuesday morning we were within sight of land. Petrels were the first bird we saw then the 3 local gannets kept us enthralled watching them catch fish in front of the yacht, including one flying fish.

We arrived in the harbour just after 1230 – it is littered with wrecks and some derelicts. We berthed at 1239 with marina assistance and met the local representative Stev, plus the marina staff. Next were the health authorities to look at our vaccination certificates and PCR test results. Followed closely by the rigger to look at the boom.

We sat down to lunch while waiting for the office to open. Then later we removed the mainsail and boom.

Next, I went to sort out the marina. The staff were all lovely, smiley faces, very friendly and helpful. The whole atmosphere of the marina is very casual snd reminds us of Fiji and the Pacific.

Followed by a meet-up at the bar.

We all needed local SIM cards so that was handled in the marina office by a phone lady

The riggers returned to pick up the boom which required a lot of manouvering around the office.

Finally, we could relax with beers and a Mojito!!

The next Viking yacht did not get in until about 8 pm. They were also looking at repairs as they had blown their Genoa apart!!

We arrived at 2am into Las Palmas marina and parked on the reception berth. Slept till 6am expecting to have to move but told not to worry until the office opened.

At 9am had all the paperwork done but apparently two boats needed to be shifted for us to get into our berth. 10 am we finally berthed.

The marina has 1250 berths at very reasonable prices and also handles the mooring area outside which is also full at the moment. All those on moorings or in the bay can also apply to the office to get cards for the showers and toilets.

Viking Explorer Seminars

We lept off the boat and went off to the Viking Explorer welcome and first seminar.

Embarcardo Lunch

Having finished the seminars and feeling hungry we adjourned to the closest restaurant – The Embarcardohttps://restauranteembarcadero.com/. At the time we did not realise that it was probably the best in town and we wouldn’t find a better one. Three hours later and many laughs with the Manager we left for a siesta!!!!

Las Palmas Harbour

The harbour is huge with room for marinas, cruise ships – large and small, oil drilling rigs, container ships and the Navy. Fishing boats are all shapes and sizes and all flags: Belize, China, Japan, Korea, Spain….. On land there is maintenance facilities plus an aquarium.

Beaches

There are beaches both sides of the peninsula. There are very nice walkways and cycle ways all along both areas of beach and through town. The first is next to the Marina.

The other one to the north side is good for surf and very touristy.

Also at the eastern end of the beach there are a huge area of sand sculptures

Saint Lucy’s Day – First Party Hosted by the Swedish Boats

Shortest Day Celebration – Saint Lucy’s Day – hosted by the Swedish members of the Viking Explorer group.

Beautiful Old Town Las Palmas

The week of seminars concluded and Carlota who organises the Viking Explorer group took us on a walk through the old part of Las Palmas. The architecture was interesting but so too we’re the shops which are all international labels pitched at international tourists. The total income to the island is 95% tourism. The streets are beautiful to walk around due to the beautifully paved areas and very few vehicles. As you will see from the photos the paving is all different and very effective.

For those who are interested in local prices here are some photos of the local market.

Covid and Rule Changes

For the first week the rules were masks only inside. Week two just before Christmas the rules changed to masks everywhere. They are also giving boosters to everyone over 60 so Hew and I were both able to get our booster vaccination shots here at no cost. Very good efficient service.

The ARC Rally

Even though the ARC rallys leave also leave from LAs Palmas we have not heard much about them until the other day. The news of the November rally losing a sailer and two boat did make it through but more interesting was a discussion had by one of the Viking cruisers with the local chandlery. He was trying to replace a Dan buoy that wouldn’t fit the back of his boat due to the wind geenrator being in the way and was told they didn’t take returns on safety gear. Big signs all over the windows. The reason being that ARC participants must pass a safety test before they can leave – they come in and buy everything they are missing or have to replace. Then when they pass the check they try and return the new gear!!! Unbelievable that some people would pay so much to join a rally then skimp on their own safety gear!!

Well back to work getting the yacht ready:

Next Bog : Inland Grand Canaria

Day 1 Departing Gibraltar and getting out of the Straits

Well, daybreak saw the Marina with 25kts gusting 35kts. Waves at the entrance and cold though clear day. You will notice that the crew was really rugged up!!

We decided it was time to go anyway. It took considerable horsepower to get off the dock as we had to swing the sterns right out into the wind.

The first stop was the fuel dock in Gibraltar for duty-free fuel. Luckily it was out of the direct wind. They also sell food and alcohol but we’re out of beer due to an Aussie boat that came in the day before and bought all the beer they had!! Pete and Nev managed to go down the road to the supermarket while we were refueling.

Departed the fuel dock and motored across the harbour around all the ships, and into the lee of the hills to raise the sails 2 reefs in main and Genoa.

Then tried to sail for the exit of the Straits but really managed very little forward motion against the wind waves and tide. Did time tacking up the African side then crossed back to the Spanish side. Tangiers VTS did not want us amongst their traffic!!

Finally made it out of the Straits late Sunday. For the first half of the night, it was still windy and rough and we were still motor sailing.

Day 2 Fishing and Dolphins

Neville who is a very keen fisherman had put out two lines to try and catch some fish. He has been allocated one hull to fish in as we knew that it would get very messy. Also because we were traveling fast he was told he had to wear a harness – separate from the sailing harnesses when leaping outboard to bring the fish in. Suddenly one day he caught a skipjack tuna. didn’t have the harness on and was not ready. He hauled it aboard and bleed it all over the back of the hull – as expected and then had to wash the area down. This is a short video of the instant – but we were not ready either – so it is rather jagged. https://youtu.be/cXpBOyjAWAE

Also the same day we managed to get some footage of dolphins, but also on a new camera and very unprepared – hadn’t even read the instructions!!

Very little to report on the way down – for the first two days there was mostly motoring. The second night we were called on VHF by an Italian warship asking for details. Luckily a week before all ships had been warned that there were naval exercises in the Mediterranean and as part of this, they would be hailing boats at random and asking questions. I was not expecting it in the Atlantic though. Never mind they were very polite and gave us something to talk about.

Day 3 Good sailing and rolling seas

We got some good weather and sailed with genoa initially and then genoa and main for the whole day in a 15-20kt breeze and 2m rolling seas – much nicer than the Mediterranean, the interval was 12 sec rather than 4 sec.

Well all good things come to an end and as night was approaching and the wind was increasing and forecast to get worse with larger seas we made the decision to stop at the northern island of La Graciosa and then consider continuing south the next day.

Day 4 – Playa Francesca and Montana Amarilla Walk

We were pleased to arrive at La Graciosa around midnight and anchored at Playa Francesa. There were 7 other yachts in the bay at the time. We went to bed and as forecast, the wind increased overnight. The wind has stayed up for two days now max wind 38kts so we have all been snuggled in inside and getting on with other jobs. Neville and Mark have both been for a swim but the rest of us are waiting got the warm weather!! Air temperature 18deg, water temperature 18.5deg.

Day 5 Departing La Graciosa

We got up in reasonable time and discovered a small yacht had drifted back in the night a long way out of the bay so I sent Hew and Nev to check on him. He was very grateful that we cared but did not want to change anything while he was firmly attached to the seafloor in the current wind! Following breakfast, Neville and Mark have taken up an exercise regime as they feel the food is too good and the exercise too little. So in the morning, they were out on the aft deck doing pushups and planks!!

The afternoon arrived and they felt they must climb the hill so we dropped them off on the beach for a walk. This is the video of the walk https://youtu.be/z_0bb_KYtTE

We decided to stay the night and the next day head off at dawn which we did into a 3.5 m swell and 20kts, much better than the previous day. we had a good sail for most of the way but the wind decreased all the way to Las Palmas until we were on the motor again. The forecast was accurate throughout. A nice video of the conditions.

We arrived at Las Palmas on Grand Canary at 2 am on Sunday morning. Moored outside reception, woke at 6 am changed piers at 9 am, and made the first seminar at 10 am.

More on the next blog

Photos: All the crew Narration: Mark