Arrival

We had a good sail downwind from Grenada to Bonaire a few dolphins on the first day but not many other fish or birds.

The evening before our arrival we sat in the setting sun on the foredeck and discussed how great the spinnaker has been this year, how often we had used it, and would we replace it before the Pacific.

We went back to the cockpit as the sunset. Five minutes later we hear a ripping sound! Our good old spinnaker split along the head, down both side tape, and then dived under the yacht. A quick disconnect of the autopilot and a turn into the wind and we managed to fish most of it out of the sea and all the sheets. Unfortunately, it will not be going any further. A quiet night under headsail only followed. The next morning for the final few hours we hoisted the main again and sailed into Bonaire in 25kts. We watched dozens of kite surfers have a great day sailing as we passed them down the coast.

An easy arrival into the marina followed then off to customs and immigration. When the paperwork was finished it was followed by lunch at a dock cafe close to the town center.

The cafe juts out over the water and as can be seen below the water even in the center of town is beautifully clear.

Bonaire

Bonaire is administered by the Netherlands and treated as if it was a village(“a special municipality”). There are 20,000 residents. The island is 38.6 kilometers long from north to south, and 5–8 km wide from east to west. The island is much drier and they grow very little so all the food is imported. Therefore fruit and vegetables are more expensive and also depend on what has arrived on a ship and delivered to which supermarket on the day. There are many more large supermarkets and no street stalls.

A Dutch colony of old the main industry here has been salt with large lagoons in the south drying salt. Originally a labour intensive activity with slaves harvesting the salt and loading it onto ships from all over the world. Now it is a highly mechanised operation obvious on arrival with huge pyramids of salt shining in the sunlight with long conveyors to load the ships.

The official language is Dutch but most locals speak Papiamentu and are fluent in English and often Spanish. If you grow up here and want to go to university in the Netherlands then you have to have a very good level of Dutch which most of the locals don’t. The schools are trying to rectify this. The teachers may teach in Papiamentu which the children speak at home but then once the children understand the concepts they need to reply to the questions in Dutch. As you might imagine trying to teach a subject in multiple languages is not without its problems.

The reefs, beaches, and on-island reserves located on both Bonaire and Klein Bonaire are under the protection of the Bonaire National marine park and managed by Stichting Nationale Parken Bonaire (STINAPA). Most visitors come to Bonaire for diving which can be done straight off the beaches or by boat. A common sight is utes driving around with dive tanks in the back as most dive sites are accessed off beaches rather than by boat.

There are over 100 dive sites on the island. The reef is very close to the shore and the colours in the water are as beautiful as those of the houses.

Kralendijk and Colourful Buildings

The waterfront of the main town, Kralendijk, has many very pretty and colourful buildings. The bright colours apparently came about because one of the colonial governors in the early 1800s decided the place needed to be something other than white which he claimed gave him migraines.

Even the courtyards of the cafes are painted and decorated. Many different styles.

There are also many good resorts scattered all the way along the coast, including a new waterways development.

Street Art

One of the most striking aspects of the town is the spectacular street art. This takes the form of painted murals on buildings and painted signs for shops or other notices. Where normally signs are made here they are all painted either on walls or on boards and hung up. Also, there is very artful graffiti. Later we found many more examples around the country. These really tell the story of Bonaire.

Flamingo’s are an island symbol with reasonable numbers living in the lagoons on the south end of the island.

Even the signs of political disagreement are painted.

Marinas, Moorings, and Cruisers

The Marina is adjacent to Harbour Village Resort.

It is quite a small marina next to the main road on the windward side and also an open undeveloped dry estuary. When the wind blows – which did all the time we were in the marina, the dust covers the yacht. The best thing about the marina was the two Pelicans that lived there and easily few around the yacht masts and dived into the middle of the marina catching fish. They were much better flyers than those we saw in Carriacou.

After a few days, we decided to shift out of the marina onto a mooring in front of the town which was far nicer. You can just dive off the boat into clean clear water on the edge of the reef which is very healthy and full of coral. You are not allowed to anchor in Bonaire as the whole island is a reserve. The moorings are placed and maintained by the park but administered by the marina.

There is a cruising community in Bonaire though not as big as Grenada. They also seem to be mostly returnees, Americans, Canadians, and Dutch cruisers. There are poker nights, dominos nights, and jam sessions. We have only so far made the last social event. They also have a Facebook page.

Nautica runs a small jetty close to a restaurant that is called ” It Rains Fishes”. They allow the cruisers to tie their dingy up there and drop off rubbish. The restaurant also has beautiful food and a lovely view over the harbour.

The next Blog will talk about the famous reef and underwater aspects of Bonaire. There is so much to say and so many photos that I need time to sort them. A third blog will be on a trip around the interior of the island. Enjoy.

We discovered that Kastela marina is really set up for charters ie the restaurant only opens on Friday and Saturday nights otherwise only a coffee/drinks bar. The chandlery was next to useless. The boatyard was very good but apparently they get plenty of practice on the charter board as they were explaining to us- one guy comes every year hires the same boat, and breaks something every year, mostly hitting rocks!!!! Fuel only available Friday and Saturday otherwise you have to take the yacht into Split.

Restaurant close by outside was a pizzeria and further down the road towards the old Kastela was an excellent steak restaurant with the best octopus salad I have had since I have been here. Close to the steak house was a brand new small supermarket – beautifully laid out. In the opposite direct there was a massive mall and very large supermarket- the origin of all the shopping trolleys seen in the marina!!!

When Izi arrived we went straight to the beach next to the marina.

The old town is like a fortified village with tiny harbour almost fully enclosed.

We were going to go into Split to look around the day after Izi arrived but it was so hot and we were all desperate to get out of the marina so we decided to head straight for Milna and get fuel there.

Hew went to collect the dingy and it wouldn’t start. Lifted the cover and found that someone had been into the motor- cut all sorts of wires and had all parts out. He asked the yard and apparently the technician had come to service a RIB and picked the wrong one.!!! They called him in to fix the mess and Hew waited. Meanwhile, I have the boat ready wondering what had happened??? Gave up waiting and took the paddleboard off and went out of the marina for a swim. Got back and Hew arrived with the explanation.

Finally got away and headed to the nearest beach in the side of Solta for clean water and a swim.

Had a great sail to Milna for over an hour and went into the harbour get fuel. The queue of 6 yachts all waiting then police launch ties up to dock and blocks half dock. We went into town area to show Izi then started to wander back to fuel dock hoping the queue had reduced – but no it was worse. Next, in comes a police RIB then shortly after one yacht towing another. It was hard to get around all the yachts jamming up the harbour. The police were chasing away yachts trying to leap into the gap. Finally, the towed boat got on the fuel dock and was tied down. We departed with yachts 6 waiting next to the fuel dock and 6-8 jamming up the harbour with another 6 or 8 were waiting outside and more coming into the marina- what a shambles!!!

We went around the corner and parked right in close after waiting for some day boats to depart. Great to jump into beautiful warm clear water with a secure anchorage.

Next morning I was up early and it was beautiful. Great spot.

Went into town later in the RIB to check on the fuel situation and 19 boats hanging around the fuel dock – lots of yelling and screaming.

The fuel guys told us it was like this every Friday and Saturday from 7am to 8 pm. The Norwegian guy at the bar next door said it was the best entertainment for a happy hour ever!!!! Wandered around town looked at the old buildings and had lunch.

Then we returned to our boat and our calm bay.

We had to get fuel so decided to stay the night and go early in the morning.

Got up and 6 am and left for the fuel dock. One large charter lagoon already there but we managed to squeeze in beside him stern to the pumps and waited for the fuel guys to arrive. We got the fuel at 7 and departed for the other side of the island to try and visit the monastery again. The forecast was 15 g20 for later in the day. Originally wanted to go to Vis and Bisevo again to show Izi but no point with the wind and swell direction and forecast.

As we cleared the harbour we already had 15kts so decided to sail past Hvar to show Izi (Hew and I felt we had spent enough time close to Hvar to miss it)  and on to Korcula. By the time we were out in the channel, we had 20-25 kt. Cruised past Hvar then hunkered down for the sail to Korcula Island which was hard on the nose. The wind continued to rise – we were carrying #2 reef on main and full Genoa. For the first half we were into a nasty short sea, two tacks later and the sea was more even and off the port side. We then had a steady wind of 28kt gusting 32 and were achieving 10kts hard on the wind. Great sail but thrashing the boat around a bit and required hand steering to the sea conditions.

Approaching the island we had to reef the genoa in so we could come down to aim for the harbour. Next minute the Genoa reefing line jammer let go so we furled the Genoa. Very shortly after “bang” and the #2 main reefing line broke. So dumped the main and motored into Vela Luka harbour and tied to a buoy. More repairs!! Forecast for the following day – thunderstorms and gales. !!!!

Late afternoon we looked around Vela Luka while Izi went for a run. Some very old parts but not a very interesting town. Discovered there was a cave on the hill too late to go and unfortunately it was closed Sunday.

Sunday began as forecast windy, grey, overcast. Forecast in the area is for 25 g 50 – so stayed. Hew fixed the second reef for main and we have returned to the old system – hopefully, no more problems. Couldn’t fix the #1 reefing line so just added to the list of future maintenance!! The good news is RIB is still behaving so happy about that.

Later in the day went out to a small island which is a park nearby and had a walk around then a swim. Very good. The wind had decreased but the sea still high.

Monday dawned grey and rainy again but we went to the cave anyway in light drizzle. Very pretty views on track to it- straight uphill 880m.

Then from cave we went down to the museum there are many artifacts they have found and with really good explanations. espcially interesting is the amount of sea rise and fall over the ages and the migration routes of men.

They also have a collection of wooden model boats made from olive wood donated by the artist.

later that day we went on down the west coast of Korcula Is. There are some great spots that we had no time to call into but will return to later. On the southern cape of Korcula we saw a large Turtle but were going too fast to get a photo. Slowed and went back but as we approached he dived so no photo – very sad. There is a big program for sightings and support. We arrived at Korcula and stayed the night. As lovely as always.

Izi and Hew went to look at the town and I went to update our police docs to give us another couple of days in Croatia. The friendly port policewoman was on holiday so I had to walk to the main station 1.5k away. I got there and the first couldn’t find the doc on the computer. Then they said only the lady who was away could update it so they were calling her colleague. He was very apologetic and then had to phone her to ask what to do. Finally with help from some more staff and another phone call the document was updated and I could leave – 90 minutes waisted. Hew and Izi picked me up on the RIB as the office was actually at the end of the boat bay halfway to the port!!!

Set off again for Brna on Mljet. Motor sailed all way. Wind dead behind and not strong enough. Stopped at bay before Brna but decided to continue on to Brna.

Arrived and tied up to Mana restaurant dock. There was a family flotilla of charter yachts in the bay 15 boats. Very nice sheltered harbour. Cute restaurant and friendly staff.

The early start was not to go sailing. This time the main cabin toilet which seemed to be leaking clean water!! After taking it out completely Hew found it was just a bad fit on the main pump housing. All cleaned and back in and set off at lunchtime. Now headed to Dubrovnik the last stop before leaving Croatia for the year.

Stopped at Dubrovnik and anchored just south of the old town right next to a very popular large cave favored by all the kayakers and jumpers. Expected to see someone asking for some money but no one that night. Bit of a sloppy night as the wind came up rather than fading away and got a bit of bounce back from the cliffs.

Next morning Izi and I went off to look around the town in the RIB. I found a spot to park it but did not realize it was right outside the harbourmaster’s office. He was just coming to work and asked us if we were off a yacht and we said yes then he said they were just bout off to get payments for the anchoring so we could pay now or the yacht could pay 675kn – I thought this was really getting steep just to anchor. He said we had 24 hours so we could stay till the following morning!! Not really on the plan – but we did have rib parking in the center of the old port!!. Anyway, off we went for a look around the old town and this time we did the walk along the top of the walls. We were lucky to be in early so only a short queue. Excellent walk.

Once we were down from the top we split up and I wandered off to find an optometrist to fix my glasses which I did. The marvellous lady who had my lenses into a new set of frames for only 400kn. Frames are all much cheaper here than NZ. If I had been buying glasses I could have got the top quality lenses and a spare set of glasses all for 600kn=92NZD, unbelievable. 

We arrived back at the yacht as Hew was finishing his work and set off for Cavtat. This time we parked in the eastern bay which is much shallower and calmer. Had a rest then Izi went into town for a run and Hew and I for a walk around. Found out that we could not check out that night and we had to go onto the Q dock in the other bay but they started at 7 am in the morning. We stopped for a drink then wandered back to the dingy to find it was already at the yacht and Izi had left us messages which we had missed. She had badly sprained her ankle. She picked us up then laid her down on the outside seat with ice and pain killers.

Next morning up at 7 and round at the dock by 0730. Already friendly help was there and we were first in so tied up and off I went. First of the harbour master who I had a long chat with about the decreasing numbers of tourists in Croatia, the state of some of the concessionaires and how we should put a report in on the official website about the good and bad parts of cruising Croatia. She was very interesting and said that the government was a long way from the action and did not really listed – just put the prices of everything up as they thought they could get more money and not noticing the decreasing number of tourists.. Also mentioned that there was still corruption rife amongst some of the concessionaire deals. 

Next to the pharmacy – more antihistamine cream, then the bakery  – always in the morning, then the police to finally check out. All complete and on the way – off to Montenegro.

We being good kiwis headed out to the 12-mile limit then did a triangle back – everyone else we saw just sailed along the coast about 1 mile out. It had been emphasised by the policeman that we must not stop – when I had queried him on the distance out and back since the countries are so close – he had re-emphasised the rule but it seemed that it was more important not to stop than to make the distance. Anyway, we made Montenegro and had not even been questioned by the radio watch.  I had heard others being asked for information early on then no one.

The arrival and the following week are on the next blog https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/08/montenegro-izi-week-3/

Cheers Barb  Hew

Some of the photos are from along the northern cliff of Gozo on the way back to Malta.