We discovered that Kastela marina is really set up for charters ie the restaurant only opens on Friday and Saturday nights otherwise only a coffee/drinks bar. The chandlery was next to useless. The boatyard was very good but apparently they get plenty of practice on the charter board as they were explaining to us- one guy comes every year hires the same boat, and breaks something every year, mostly hitting rocks!!!! Fuel only available Friday and Saturday otherwise you have to take the yacht into Split.

Restaurant close by outside was a pizzeria and further down the road towards the old Kastela was an excellent steak restaurant with the best octopus salad I have had since I have been here. Close to the steak house was a brand new small supermarket – beautifully laid out. In the opposite direct there was a massive mall and very large supermarket- the origin of all the shopping trolleys seen in the marina!!!

When Izi arrived we went straight to the beach next to the marina.

The old town is like a fortified village with tiny harbour almost fully enclosed.

We were going to go into Split to look around the day after Izi arrived but it was so hot and we were all desperate to get out of the marina so we decided to head straight for Milna and get fuel there.

Hew went to collect the dingy and it wouldn’t start. Lifted the cover and found that someone had been into the motor- cut all sorts of wires and had all parts out. He asked the yard and apparently the technician had come to service a RIB and picked the wrong one.!!! They called him in to fix the mess and Hew waited. Meanwhile, I have the boat ready wondering what had happened??? Gave up waiting and took the paddleboard off and went out of the marina for a swim. Got back and Hew arrived with the explanation.

Finally got away and headed to the nearest beach in the side of Solta for clean water and a swim.

Had a great sail to Milna for over an hour and went into the harbour get fuel. The queue of 6 yachts all waiting then police launch ties up to dock and blocks half dock. We went into town area to show Izi then started to wander back to fuel dock hoping the queue had reduced – but no it was worse. Next, in comes a police RIB then shortly after one yacht towing another. It was hard to get around all the yachts jamming up the harbour. The police were chasing away yachts trying to leap into the gap. Finally, the towed boat got on the fuel dock and was tied down. We departed with yachts 6 waiting next to the fuel dock and 6-8 jamming up the harbour with another 6 or 8 were waiting outside and more coming into the marina- what a shambles!!!

We went around the corner and parked right in close after waiting for some day boats to depart. Great to jump into beautiful warm clear water with a secure anchorage.

Next morning I was up early and it was beautiful. Great spot.

Went into town later in the RIB to check on the fuel situation and 19 boats hanging around the fuel dock – lots of yelling and screaming.

The fuel guys told us it was like this every Friday and Saturday from 7am to 8 pm. The Norwegian guy at the bar next door said it was the best entertainment for a happy hour ever!!!! Wandered around town looked at the old buildings and had lunch.

Then we returned to our boat and our calm bay.

We had to get fuel so decided to stay the night and go early in the morning.

Got up and 6 am and left for the fuel dock. One large charter lagoon already there but we managed to squeeze in beside him stern to the pumps and waited for the fuel guys to arrive. We got the fuel at 7 and departed for the other side of the island to try and visit the monastery again. The forecast was 15 g20 for later in the day. Originally wanted to go to Vis and Bisevo again to show Izi but no point with the wind and swell direction and forecast.

As we cleared the harbour we already had 15kts so decided to sail past Hvar to show Izi (Hew and I felt we had spent enough time close to Hvar to miss it)  and on to Korcula. By the time we were out in the channel, we had 20-25 kt. Cruised past Hvar then hunkered down for the sail to Korcula Island which was hard on the nose. The wind continued to rise – we were carrying #2 reef on main and full Genoa. For the first half we were into a nasty short sea, two tacks later and the sea was more even and off the port side. We then had a steady wind of 28kt gusting 32 and were achieving 10kts hard on the wind. Great sail but thrashing the boat around a bit and required hand steering to the sea conditions.

Approaching the island we had to reef the genoa in so we could come down to aim for the harbour. Next minute the Genoa reefing line jammer let go so we furled the Genoa. Very shortly after “bang” and the #2 main reefing line broke. So dumped the main and motored into Vela Luka harbour and tied to a buoy. More repairs!! Forecast for the following day – thunderstorms and gales. !!!!

Late afternoon we looked around Vela Luka while Izi went for a run. Some very old parts but not a very interesting town. Discovered there was a cave on the hill too late to go and unfortunately it was closed Sunday.

Sunday began as forecast windy, grey, overcast. Forecast in the area is for 25 g 50 – so stayed. Hew fixed the second reef for main and we have returned to the old system – hopefully, no more problems. Couldn’t fix the #1 reefing line so just added to the list of future maintenance!! The good news is RIB is still behaving so happy about that.

Later in the day went out to a small island which is a park nearby and had a walk around then a swim. Very good. The wind had decreased but the sea still high.

Monday dawned grey and rainy again but we went to the cave anyway in light drizzle. Very pretty views on track to it- straight uphill 880m.

Then from cave we went down to the museum there are many artifacts they have found and with really good explanations. espcially interesting is the amount of sea rise and fall over the ages and the migration routes of men.

They also have a collection of wooden model boats made from olive wood donated by the artist.

later that day we went on down the west coast of Korcula Is. There are some great spots that we had no time to call into but will return to later. On the southern cape of Korcula we saw a large Turtle but were going too fast to get a photo. Slowed and went back but as we approached he dived so no photo – very sad. There is a big program for sightings and support. We arrived at Korcula and stayed the night. As lovely as always.

Izi and Hew went to look at the town and I went to update our police docs to give us another couple of days in Croatia. The friendly port policewoman was on holiday so I had to walk to the main station 1.5k away. I got there and the first couldn’t find the doc on the computer. Then they said only the lady who was away could update it so they were calling her colleague. He was very apologetic and then had to phone her to ask what to do. Finally with help from some more staff and another phone call the document was updated and I could leave – 90 minutes waisted. Hew and Izi picked me up on the RIB as the office was actually at the end of the boat bay halfway to the port!!!

Set off again for Brna on Mljet. Motor sailed all way. Wind dead behind and not strong enough. Stopped at bay before Brna but decided to continue on to Brna.

Arrived and tied up to Mana restaurant dock. There was a family flotilla of charter yachts in the bay 15 boats. Very nice sheltered harbour. Cute restaurant and friendly staff.

The early start was not to go sailing. This time the main cabin toilet which seemed to be leaking clean water!! After taking it out completely Hew found it was just a bad fit on the main pump housing. All cleaned and back in and set off at lunchtime. Now headed to Dubrovnik the last stop before leaving Croatia for the year.

Stopped at Dubrovnik and anchored just south of the old town right next to a very popular large cave favored by all the kayakers and jumpers. Expected to see someone asking for some money but no one that night. Bit of a sloppy night as the wind came up rather than fading away and got a bit of bounce back from the cliffs.

Next morning Izi and I went off to look around the town in the RIB. I found a spot to park it but did not realize it was right outside the harbourmaster’s office. He was just coming to work and asked us if we were off a yacht and we said yes then he said they were just bout off to get payments for the anchoring so we could pay now or the yacht could pay 675kn – I thought this was really getting steep just to anchor. He said we had 24 hours so we could stay till the following morning!! Not really on the plan – but we did have rib parking in the center of the old port!!. Anyway, off we went for a look around the old town and this time we did the walk along the top of the walls. We were lucky to be in early so only a short queue. Excellent walk.

Once we were down from the top we split up and I wandered off to find an optometrist to fix my glasses which I did. The marvellous lady who had my lenses into a new set of frames for only 400kn. Frames are all much cheaper here than NZ. If I had been buying glasses I could have got the top quality lenses and a spare set of glasses all for 600kn=92NZD, unbelievable. 

We arrived back at the yacht as Hew was finishing his work and set off for Cavtat. This time we parked in the eastern bay which is much shallower and calmer. Had a rest then Izi went into town for a run and Hew and I for a walk around. Found out that we could not check out that night and we had to go onto the Q dock in the other bay but they started at 7 am in the morning. We stopped for a drink then wandered back to the dingy to find it was already at the yacht and Izi had left us messages which we had missed. She had badly sprained her ankle. She picked us up then laid her down on the outside seat with ice and pain killers.

Next morning up at 7 and round at the dock by 0730. Already friendly help was there and we were first in so tied up and off I went. First of the harbour master who I had a long chat with about the decreasing numbers of tourists in Croatia, the state of some of the concessionaires and how we should put a report in on the official website about the good and bad parts of cruising Croatia. She was very interesting and said that the government was a long way from the action and did not really listed – just put the prices of everything up as they thought they could get more money and not noticing the decreasing number of tourists.. Also mentioned that there was still corruption rife amongst some of the concessionaire deals. 

Next to the pharmacy – more antihistamine cream, then the bakery  – always in the morning, then the police to finally check out. All complete and on the way – off to Montenegro.

We being good kiwis headed out to the 12-mile limit then did a triangle back – everyone else we saw just sailed along the coast about 1 mile out. It had been emphasised by the policeman that we must not stop – when I had queried him on the distance out and back since the countries are so close – he had re-emphasised the rule but it seemed that it was more important not to stop than to make the distance. Anyway, we made Montenegro and had not even been questioned by the radio watch.  I had heard others being asked for information early on then no one.

The arrival and the following week are on the next blog https://kiwiflyingfish.com/2019/08/montenegro-izi-week-3/

Cheers Barb  Hew

Hvar

We (Barb, Hew and Grahame), arrived at Stari Grad about lunchtime and asked if we could park on the quay for a couple of hours to look around and have lunch. the harbour guys said no problem and no charge – a nice surprise. This was a lovely town both for the harbour, buildings and peacefulness.

As we set off we came to the house of a famous local poet Petar Hektorović’s Tvrdalj who built it throughout his life. The house for him and his friends had the same importance for him as his literary work. The fish ponds were connected directly to the sea and a local stream so the water was brackish – very clever. The fish pond also had a dovecot over it as well.

We departed Stari Grad after lunch and headed for Brac. The wind was northerly 20kt directly on the nose with a rising sea, so we decided to go to any bay that we could reach on the western side without tacking. then I noticed that I had marked one on the chart for the Monastery in Luka Brac. Arrived two yachts were already there and one had the whole of the head of the bay!. The other was anchored and tied back stern to the north so we decided to anchor the opposite. We got a good spot and had a calm night despite wind raging outside the bay for several hours.

Brac

Arrived in Brac at Milna harbour and cruised into the town for a look then out again to find a nice bay. Met a local chap as he checked his anchor was clear and he told us it was his favourite port.

We departed Stari Grad after lunch and headed for Brac. The wind was northerly 20kt directly on the nose with a rising sea, so we decided to go to any bay that we could reach on the western side without tacking. then I noticed that I had marked one on the chart for the Monastery in Luka Brac. Arrived two yachts were already there and one had the whole of the head of the bay!. The other was anchored and tied back stern to the north so we decided to anchor the opposite, found a good spot and had a calm night despite wind raging outside the bay for several hours.

The Blaca Monastery and Hermitage were erected in the karst caves of Vidova Gora on the south of Brac Island. Two monks started Blaca in 1551 by acquiring more land around the monastery and cultivating olive oil and vineyards. The monks traded the monastery’s products to passing sailing ships and the monastery flourished in the 18^th Century. The second golden age of the hermitage was the beginning of the 19^th Century when defence walls and a fort were built as well as other additions like the New House and the Peasant House and the water supply was regulated. the monastery holds a collection of Glagolitic scripts and other religious items plus a collection of clocks and the third most powerful telescope in Croatia. The last monk father Niko Milicevic Jr., a well-known astronomer, died in 1963.

Departed the bay heading for a long sailing day up the coast. As per normal the wind faded and it was a motor sail. A few hours later the wind freshened and the day turned cold and grey. Just when we were thinking of snorkeling on a wreck!! Gave that a miss and went into Rogoznica.

Rogonznica & the Dragons Eye

We were making our way north and estimating that we did not have much time if we wanted to have a good look around Sibenik. We were also going to have a look at the town and harbour of Rogoznica as a possible drop off and pick up point for Split. Since Split is so busy in summer alternatives are much cheaper. We had heard there was a good marina here and wanted to view that and the harbour. We discovered that generally, the harbour was uninspiring, and the Frapa Marina was lovely but expensive €260. There was a hotel as well and several shops. I finally got myself some rock hopping shoes – after all this time in bare feet. the boys checked out the chandlers and decided it was no good.

We then found a lovely little bay over the hill from the marina and anchored there among the day boats and a few other yachts. A great spot. In the morning we walked over the hill to look at the marina and find the “dragons eye”. This is a sinkhole and a brilliant swimming area. Access to the sea is below sea level and the water has been known to get covered in algae growth during the summer. But it is a lovely spot and great to swim in sheltered from the wind. Also, great rock jumping – a national pastime here.

Next stop Sibenik