Sea trial of the rigging the next day showed no problems just a half turn needed on the side stays.

Bureaucrats

Well, we finally had the rigging in sails on and most things we knew about repaired. It was definitely time to leave. We wanted to leave the next day but the only item we hadn’t finalised was how to get the VAT back. So we left the boatyard to anchor out in Rinella Bay to sort out last few issues. We were exhausted as well and in no state to start out that night.

You may think we had left the VAT issue fairly late but this battle /discussion/ arguments had been going on for weeks!! Talk about getting the run around from government officials!!

Firstly we asked the boat yard but they said they could not offer us VAT exempt invoices. They suggested an agent who sorted it for super yachts and he said flat fee €3000 to look at it!! Then we asked the VAT office- they said only yachts run as a business could claim it back. We stayed that any foreigner leaving the EU could on departure. Their answer was not a yacht as it is not a person!! Next we tried the customs office at Msida marina – no one there but said call this number. We did so and were told he would be there soon. Nothing for half an hour so then called back and same person said sorry he is not coming in today.!! Come to our office at Grand Harbour. With yacht in Msida and fairly windy we decided to do it another day.

Next try went to Customs office at the ferry terminal in Valletta. Two chaps behind desk- I had been here before to have papers signed. Asked these chaps, they said no nothing to do with them and no one else in building could help us and to call these 3 numbers.

Depart and call the numbers got nowhere. Got interrogated as to why we should get VAT back as it was a tourist tax!! ….,,

Tried another number from the internet listing and got a really nice chap who said yes it was the right office and the other two on the desk should have done it and come in.

Hew goes over has a good chat all sorted can do it next day but you have to book yacht into marina so they can come and see all the rigging on the yacht!!

Too late that day as the Marina offices all shut. Get on the phone the next morning and start calling the marinas – all full. Finally one called back to say they coukd fit us in for 4 hours for €120!! Then Hew rang customs to tell them where we would be and … Oh no ….”we don’t go to you you come and tie up to our dock”😬😬

Cancel the marina then go and look at dock near ferry terminal finding somewhere to fit in. Finally found a spot right outside office and tied up.

Along comes a man who says “you shouldn’t be here it’s private” ???? Apparently he rents the building and that part of the pier to customs. Anyway when we told him we had been told to tie up here he laughed as if the shambles we had was normal.

Next a customs guy comes out and asks why we were there- “because one of your guys told us to!!!!”

Hew gets all the forms together and off he goes..

Two hours later he comes back with Captain Customs. Nice enough chap. Tells me he had a cousin from Australia at wedding on Saturday who raved about how good Aus was and how bad Malta was and ruined his day. Then to top it off the power in the building has been out for 3 days!!! He was still grumpy!!

Anyway after sitting on the boat and looking at all the invoices and forms he took them away to stamp them and post them to a crowd who now handles all the VAT refunds for the government. He said we may not get any back…he does not know.?

Gremlins

Left the pier and went back to Rinella Bay to tidy up the yacht to leave. The reason we weren’t going straight out was that the charts at the Nav Station were playing up again. We seemed to be losing the connection between the helm station and the nav station. Also the new toilet put in as part of the starboard aft cabin alteration was leaking!!! Hew was so happy- NOT!!

After pulling off the kitchen cupboard doors, and unplugging and plugging in all the connections again, and talking to the local expert we seemed to have settled it down enough to leave. Tied up the dingy and headed off.

Departure

Hoisted the main and the topping lift unclipped!! Luckily got it back before the pin was lost and set off. Genoa up and off on a 10kt breeze in the right direction- NE.

Through most of the first night some sailing and some motor sailing. New Iridium go working well but taking a while to get through all the intricacies. Yacht routing seems good but winds about 20 degrees off and more aft. Had to start the motors about 3 am as the wind died.

Day break and we put up the genniker and gull-winged it most of the day, a great day cruising along. Wind directly aft and amazing that the sails held so well. Catamarans are not supposed to be able to sail downwind like this!!

Gremlins continue

Then the gremlins appeared again. Starboard motor water pump leaking. Not fixable at sea. 24 volt fridge compressor pump loosing suction when boat speeds increased and the Port engine leaking oil!! Well we had a beautiful sail despite various issues.

Sailing and Weather

Change in forecast caused a slight alteration to track. Wind going west instead of east. About 5pm rolled up the gennaker, very dark clouds to the west of us looking like a squall. Rolled out the Genoa and were busy discussing reefing for the night. Fixed the reefing lines and topping lift which had come off again the previous day. Started the Radar and Doppler and west of us it was bright red! Radar works very well 10 min later lightening started , then the squall and pouring rain. First 15 min was a fun ride with full sail up 25kt wind and +13kt boat speed. Lightening all around us.

We got Genoa half reefed and rode down one side of the the front for the next 30 min. Finally it passed behind us and we watched the spectacular lightening display for the next hour as it lit up the evening sky as dusk fell. We were glad to be out of it.

Wind kept backing and eventually we gybed over onto a deep reach straight for the next way point.

Decided to recheck all the weathers we had but none mentioned thunderstorms for our area or westerlies, all were ESE to SSE. Got some good practice in on the iridium-go!!

Settled in for dinner and night shift thinking a good steady wind , but like the typical Med it died away and needed to start the motor again around 2300.

Fairly steady night motoring until about 3am when the wind and waves got up again. Now the wind was from SE and waves from South. We tacked just before I went to rest. Sea got up to about 1.5 m but short and cross seas with a very nasty short chop. Boat fell off a wave several times or got slapped from below. Very noisy. Very little we could do about it. Same conditions continue all the way until just north of Corfu with the wind rising steadily and peaking at 27 knots boat speed peaked at 14 with help from the waves.

Reefed down to 1 on main and 1 on Genoa, then again to 2 on both. Better ride and still averaging 9 knots with many brief spurts of 12kts.

Ooops

At the peak of the wind and crossed sea state I decided we needed a sandwich. Opened the large fridge door and all the cheeses and a half dozen egsgs lept out at me. Quickly shut the door and proceeded to clean smashed eggs off the floor. Obviously we have been cruising the Med too much – this fridge is not designed for a bad seaway!! Decided to not open that fridge again to get to the new bread and instead use old bread from the small fridge. Went to open that one very carefully and the entire door feel off in my hands!!! Couldn’t get it back in so yelled at Hew for some some help .Finally he heard me and came in to assist.

Got to the channel between Corfu and Albania and the wind finally calmed down. Unfortunately completely on the nose so started both engines and motor sailed the rest of the way. With Hew sleeping on the seat. You will note that we are wearing many more layers of clothing than a week ago – autumn has come!!

Arrival Albania

Arrived in Sarande at 1705, called the port and got answered by the agent who said the harbour master would be there in 30 minutes, and no marinas available due to impending storm!! Anchored in front of the beach with a couple of other yachts and the anchor seemed to have caught well.

Went ashore with passports and finalised the paperwork. Jelja from Sarande Summer tours is a great agent and lovely to see her after 2 years away. https://www.sarandasummertours.com/ Got an updated forecast which was not very worrying, in fact for Sarande only low to moderate winds but rain for the next three days. We decided that if the anchorage became untenable and we had to shift over to Corfu we would get a clearance out that night. did all the paper work then went out and had dinner. Albania was the same as previously – lovely people and simple and reasonable prices, we must come back some day and explore this country. Started raining before we got back to the yacht but still light winds.

Woke up in the morning to torrential rain and decided we should stay in bed. Next minute hit by a really strong gust and the yacht took off out to sea!!! Out into the pouring rain. Tried to re-anchor twice and then gave up – all we were doing was plowing up seagrass by the anchor load. Decided change of plan again and we should head for Corfu, two hours away.

Corfu Arrival

As we motored along the wind died and we could see the Albanian coast clearly and fairly calm. Wishing we hadn’t checked out and could stay in some of the little coves. Half way to Corfu we finally had reception with Greece again. We got a new forecast from Meteo blue and it did not look good, thunderstorms, squalls and rain for three days. Hew was trying to get hold of A1 yachting about whether we get a marina and whether they could clear us in. we had been We had been recommended them fby a friend as we had not used any in the past and had had no real issues but this time was a real test. I was steering and looking at a wind line ahead – pitch black to the south and further west of our position there was a lot of wind and waves – reassessment time. Hew got the report of no marinas available, no slots in the old harbour so we did a 180 and headed for a northern bay we had discussed as a bolt hole the night before. A good decision soon we were motoring at 8 knots and as the wind and waves caught up with us we were doing 12 kts.

Another 30 minutes and we were inside the bay anchoring in 20kts of wind. Lots of chain out and we had a really good hook in. We waited with engines going for some time to make sure we did not shift. Then settled down for the day. Shortly after we anchored the yacht in front of us dragged and you could see they had anchored on a patch of sea grass as we had in Sarande and their anchor was full. After two more goes they finally got a good spot and settled down.

The wind and rain came in patches and in between you could look around this beautiful bay in realatively calm conditions. we were really glad we had changed our mind when we did. Having internet and phone again communication was recommenced with the outside world. looks like we will be here for several days. Paperwork for Greece was finished, A1 yachting https://a1yachting.com/ were handling it all except the TEPAI which we had done on line on arrival in the bay. Now time to relax and catch up on the current blog which I wrote on a long night watch, perhaps even some of the unfinished ones. Looking at the forecast we will not see sun for at least three days.

Just before publication have had another squall of 30kts through and another yacht drag. Finally caught very close to us – then up anchored further away. I am very glad as he came in late and was too close. Looks like it may be a long night.

The first day we decided to take a taxi to the monastery and then walk to the town of Anogi to see the house and then on down Kioni village. Walk- Monastery to Agoni then Kioni.

Unfortunately, the caretaker who Di came to see was in Vathi for the day. But we had a walk around before starting on the track. The bell tower of the monastery was further up the hill in amongst a cluster of aerials – the old and the new – probably a way to make money for the church.

Then it was off to walk the track which Di had looked up and it said it was an “easy track”. It may have been for goats but a bit more ruggard and uphill than we were expecting. Spectacular views through to the south over Vathy and towards Kefalonia. Passed a few goats in the second half of the track, but no walkers.

Once we reached the village we discovered there was no food as the cafe was catering for a party that night – so coffees and ice cream only. After a brief stop, we headed off to look at the house as it had been pointed out by the taxi driver and when Di tried to get more information at the cafe we found the taxi driver’s husband there drinking coffee with his friends. We learnt that the man who had just died, had a brother who had died previously, and so there were no living relations there – they were in NZ and Australia.

Hew and I headed off downhill and Pete opted for a taxi, while Di wanted to idle along at her own speed. The track down was for the most part much better than the part form the Monastery to Anogi with only a rough bit in the middle, and also a large olive grove. There was also a little chapel that was very cute about halfway down the hill.

We got back to Kioni late in the day so decided to stay the night.

Next day it was off to Paxos via Lefkas Canal which we reached at 1100 right in time for the opening on the hour.

The next day was off to Paxos where we stayed at Mongonisi Bay again since we had liked the anchorage so much the first time. We again tried for the quayside but the wind was wrong so anchored on the other side of the bay against the cliffs with five other catamarans – three owned by New Zealanders, us, “Site Office” a lagoon sailing catamaran and “Oscar” – leopard power cat, plus one by an American and one by a French Fountain Pajot ower. Mongonissi Bay Bar was shutting that weekend – the end of the season, and the other cafe was only going for two more weeks. Made us realise that the cruising was really getting close to the end.

The next morning we sailed past the main town of Gaios and there were only three yachts at the quayside whereas a month ago it had been full with over 50 yachts – huge change.

Next Stop Corfu.

We had a good sail north with the crew really enjoying themselves with a good wind.

In Poros on the way north and we anchored quite close to the ferry terminal and then the anchored dragged slightly when the wind reversed in the middle of the night. We would not want to be any closer.!!

The next stop was Effimia – a great little town.

After the windy ride, there was a little shopping and a relaxing night. The other option was Sami but the wind was blowing from the wrong direction and so Effimia it was.

We wanted to spend a day on land and visit the famous Melassani Lake caves where the water crosses from one side of the island to the other – Argostoli to Sami.

Because there were busloads of tourist we first went to the Drogarati stalactite caves which were good to see though only the main cavern was open.

We also convinced to go to a children’s zoo which had all the stories of Odysseus – even a trojan horse – did not rate for adults!!

We were also going to visit the Naval Museum( which was supposed to be very good), but ran out of time so next stop was the Melanisi Cave. It was very beautiful and peaceful but very touristy – more so than anywhere else we had seen in the Greek islands so far. Unfortunately the guides knew little of the mechanics or the geology of the phenomenon. The inside temperature was much cooler than outside so nice on a warm day.

A well earned dinner. 

The next stop on the plan was Ithaca.

Ithaca – East Coast – Marmakas – north of Frikes. We thought it looked perfect for an anchorage but as normal the wind changed in the middle of the night and it was not as peaceful. the little church on the island was great with its own mini grottos.

The next day it was up early and on to the west coast of Meganisi which has one of the more famous grottos. This time the story was that a Greek submarine hid in the big cave during WWII – not sure but one of the caves at least is big enough( deep and wide) but shallow and not as interesting as some of the others we had seen. Last chance at cave diving for some of the crew.

The  first nights anchorage on Meganisi was  at  Abelake Bay and the second night at Port Atherinos. Both on the northern coast which is very pretty and filled with lots of places to park. Here we came across SV Katherine – friends of Rob and Virginia’s.

Early the second day we visited Scorpios Island which is actually two islands previously owned by Onassis and has a beach house that Jackie Kennedy used when she was there. He left it to the Greek government but his daughter has currently rented it out to a Russian Princess. Very beautiful little island but heavily guarded.

The last stop was Fiskardo and in the morning Mark, Barb, Chris and Virginia all went around to the cave that Mark had found on the way south when we were last in Fiskardo. It was huge and on further examination, we decided it was an old white clay mine. For some reason, it was now deserted.

The last night for the group of eight was at Fiskardo.

Rob, Virginia, Chris, and Mark all departed by taxi the next morning for Argostoli airport.

These 10 days with eight onboard have been really interesting. All eight are sailors and all enjoy sailing and boating and swimming and all able and willing to help. It has been a very social time. Many people have asked how we could cope with so many, but when everyone helps and is keen and enthusiastic it is easy.

Nice sail from Paxos with NW 10-15kts. Dropped sails before entering channel as Boeing good 15kts and aft quartering sea. We were going to stop at Preveza but Grey and very windy so continued on around the first headland to a sheltered bay, Panagia Vonitsa. The land all-around was much lower and flatter than we had seen previously and very little cultivation. The hills only appearing in the far distance.

The Ambracian Gulf is supposedly famous for its variety of birdlife, rare pelicans, turtles, and bottle-nosed dolphins but we didn’t see any. We needed more time and dingy trips to shallow areas. 

The wind changed to NE G20 early evening but good anchorage and calm in the morning. Sea is full of small sea urchins snot 1-2cm wide. Also large balls of tiny fish.

In the morning Jo decided to walk from the bay to the town and we motored over to town of Vonitsa in the morning to visit the castle.

The Vonitsa castle which has been owned and built by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans at various stages as they fought for it over and over again. The first recorded town there was in the 10th century. Very interesting, so much history, free with no information but run-down, quite sad, just another Greek ruin! Great views.

Girl on the gate had a 4-week old cat with her for company. Hew decided Hew should show it some attention.

The town was well kept and several nice buildings, fancy gates, fences, and balconies. Every town has its own personality if it is older, most of the newer ones seem to have lost the art of individuality.

That night we went to the other side of the Gulf to have a look and anchored at Menidi for the night but did not go ashore. Many tavernas on the waterfront. These photographs are from the paddleboard.

The next day set out back to Preveza and on to the Lefkada Canal.

We were to pick up Di and Pete the following day and since it was very windy not a great forecast and the marina at nd wall at Lefkada were full. So we motored down to Nydri and anchored far into the big bay along with many others. We stayed the night and visited the tavernas. The water was full of jellyfish, they are harmless and quite beautiful.

The bay we really liked called Tranquil Bay was full but in the morning we shifted back there as closer to the town to pick up and go grocery shopping.

Nydri is a good little town and great bottle store/bar combined which Pete and Di checked out when we were shopping for stores.

The large bay to the south is full of yacht wrecks of all sizes and others just falling apart on the moorings. Was chatting to one guy and he says people come and leave them in the sheltered bay then don’t come back. One guy had died, others had lost interest, some had sunk on their anchors. He had just bought a small one about 30′ for €1000, was going to fix it up over winter then go sail – a great idea. The photos are only a very small sample of all the yachts there.

After collecting Di and Pete we set off in the direction of Kefalonia as we were due to drop one off and collect two more in three days.

The first stop was Fiskcardo where we anchored two bays down from the town at Foki Beach as the town and harbour were full. It was a great choice and had a cave that Jo and Mark explored the next day but the rest of us had to wait for the next trip that way.

Next stop was one night at Poros. On the way down we passed the coast guard parking bay just south of Foki Bay. We did not go ashore due to late in the day and windy. Very impressive gorge next to the town. We were still undecided about the parking area for the following night due to forecast for high NW and from past experience, we knew that Argostoli would be horrible.

Next day we decided to consider Agia Pelagia marina which is just off the southern end of the airport. It was built 12 years ago but never finished. Very limited parking but sheltered in northerlies and we could go alongside the pier. Great spot. Only one other boat came in after us and we got talking to one of the permanent residents who told us he had had free parking for 12 years as they couldn’t sort out who should be in charge since it was never finished. Mostly fishing boats but the Guardia di Finanza had used it in the past to drop off immigrants and leave them on the building there for the Greeks to sort out.

Jo left us at this point we waited for Virginia and Rob who had arrived on the aircraft that Jo was flying out on.

Locals fix paths in winter and the rain also resets them. Not allowed to build anything in the Timoni area as it has reserve status because it was an old port. Therefore no toilets and hence why the track continuing on from Port Timoni to the peak is so dirty and reeking of urine and faeces (and wet wipes thrown into bushes everywhere)…yuk.

Dingy got fixed in Lefkada but then stopped after one run soHew went to Paxos to try and fix dingy and air conditioning with no luck. Hew discovers that one of the people on the boat was on the Greece trip with us 2 years ago.

Owner of the restaurant where we are staying talked to the mechanic at Lefkada and finds that he changed stator not the CDI unit – all becomes clear with some “googling”. An induced failure due to dodgy wires caused by Croatians in Kastela tearing the engine apart! Stator fixed but not the wires so failed again….grrrrr. But we finally have an explanation.

Hew finishes accounts, I catch up on blogs, emails and I get closer to finishing a lit. review.

We revisit Arillas beach and Ammos restaurant for really good quinoa salad and Virgin Mojito.

Thursday we decide to go further on our trusty scooter and visit the “love canal”, a very busy touristy area which reminds us how lucky we are on the yacht going to secluded bays and coves. The rock is very soft in some places like mud and visitors use it to cover themselves before having a swim, as seem below. The younger crowd are all into rock jumping. Albania looms through the haze in the background and you realise again how close the two countries are and yet how far apart.

In the final few days, I take many photos of the surrounding houses and countryside to give a feeling of all the beautiful colours and peacefulness in this part of Greece.