The first day we decided to take a taxi to the monastery and then walk to the town of Anogi to see the house and then on down Kioni village. Walk- Monastery to Agoni then Kioni.

Unfortunately, the caretaker who Di came to see was in Vathi for the day. But we had a walk around before starting on the track. The bell tower of the monastery was further up the hill in amongst a cluster of aerials – the old and the new – probably a way to make money for the church.

Then it was off to walk the track which Di had looked up and it said it was an “easy track”. It may have been for goats but a bit more ruggard and uphill than we were expecting. Spectacular views through to the south over Vathy and towards Kefalonia. Passed a few goats in the second half of the track, but no walkers.

Once we reached the village we discovered there was no food as the cafe was catering for a party that night – so coffees and ice cream only. After a brief stop, we headed off to look at the house as it had been pointed out by the taxi driver and when Di tried to get more information at the cafe we found the taxi driver’s husband there drinking coffee with his friends. We learnt that the man who had just died, had a brother who had died previously, and so there were no living relations there – they were in NZ and Australia.

Hew and I headed off downhill and Pete opted for a taxi, while Di wanted to idle along at her own speed. The track down was for the most part much better than the part form the Monastery to Anogi with only a rough bit in the middle, and also a large olive grove. There was also a little chapel that was very cute about halfway down the hill.

We got back to Kioni late in the day so decided to stay the night.

Next day it was off to Paxos via Lefkas Canal which we reached at 1100 right in time for the opening on the hour.

The next day was off to Paxos where we stayed at Mongonisi Bay again since we had liked the anchorage so much the first time. We again tried for the quayside but the wind was wrong so anchored on the other side of the bay against the cliffs with five other catamarans – three owned by New Zealanders, us, “Site Office” a lagoon sailing catamaran and “Oscar” – leopard power cat, plus one by an American and one by a French Fountain Pajot ower. Mongonissi Bay Bar was shutting that weekend – the end of the season, and the other cafe was only going for two more weeks. Made us realise that the cruising was really getting close to the end.

The next morning we sailed past the main town of Gaios and there were only three yachts at the quayside whereas a month ago it had been full with over 50 yachts – huge change.

Next Stop Corfu.

Nice sail from Paxos with NW 10-15kts. Dropped sails before entering channel as Boeing good 15kts and aft quartering sea. We were going to stop at Preveza but Grey and very windy so continued on around the first headland to a sheltered bay, Panagia Vonitsa. The land all-around was much lower and flatter than we had seen previously and very little cultivation. The hills only appearing in the far distance.

The Ambracian Gulf is supposedly famous for its variety of birdlife, rare pelicans, turtles, and bottle-nosed dolphins but we didn’t see any. We needed more time and dingy trips to shallow areas. 

The wind changed to NE G20 early evening but good anchorage and calm in the morning. Sea is full of small sea urchins snot 1-2cm wide. Also large balls of tiny fish.

In the morning Jo decided to walk from the bay to the town and we motored over to town of Vonitsa in the morning to visit the castle.

The Vonitsa castle which has been owned and built by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans at various stages as they fought for it over and over again. The first recorded town there was in the 10th century. Very interesting, so much history, free with no information but run-down, quite sad, just another Greek ruin! Great views.

Girl on the gate had a 4-week old cat with her for company. Hew decided Hew should show it some attention.

The town was well kept and several nice buildings, fancy gates, fences, and balconies. Every town has its own personality if it is older, most of the newer ones seem to have lost the art of individuality.

That night we went to the other side of the Gulf to have a look and anchored at Menidi for the night but did not go ashore. Many tavernas on the waterfront. These photographs are from the paddleboard.

The next day set out back to Preveza and on to the Lefkada Canal.

We were to pick up Di and Pete the following day and since it was very windy not a great forecast and the marina at nd wall at Lefkada were full. So we motored down to Nydri and anchored far into the big bay along with many others. We stayed the night and visited the tavernas. The water was full of jellyfish, they are harmless and quite beautiful.

The bay we really liked called Tranquil Bay was full but in the morning we shifted back there as closer to the town to pick up and go grocery shopping.

Nydri is a good little town and great bottle store/bar combined which Pete and Di checked out when we were shopping for stores.

The large bay to the south is full of yacht wrecks of all sizes and others just falling apart on the moorings. Was chatting to one guy and he says people come and leave them in the sheltered bay then don’t come back. One guy had died, others had lost interest, some had sunk on their anchors. He had just bought a small one about 30′ for €1000, was going to fix it up over winter then go sail – a great idea. The photos are only a very small sample of all the yachts there.

After collecting Di and Pete we set off in the direction of Kefalonia as we were due to drop one off and collect two more in three days.

The first stop was Fiskcardo where we anchored two bays down from the town at Foki Beach as the town and harbour were full. It was a great choice and had a cave that Jo and Mark explored the next day but the rest of us had to wait for the next trip that way.

Next stop was one night at Poros. On the way down we passed the coast guard parking bay just south of Foki Bay. We did not go ashore due to late in the day and windy. Very impressive gorge next to the town. We were still undecided about the parking area for the following night due to forecast for high NW and from past experience, we knew that Argostoli would be horrible.

Next day we decided to consider Agia Pelagia marina which is just off the southern end of the airport. It was built 12 years ago but never finished. Very limited parking but sheltered in northerlies and we could go alongside the pier. Great spot. Only one other boat came in after us and we got talking to one of the permanent residents who told us he had had free parking for 12 years as they couldn’t sort out who should be in charge since it was never finished. Mostly fishing boats but the Guardia di Finanza had used it in the past to drop off immigrants and leave them on the building there for the Greeks to sort out.

Jo left us at this point we waited for Virginia and Rob who had arrived on the aircraft that Jo was flying out on.