After much thought, we booked a series of flights that would get us back to Trinidad and Eleuthera in good time. We have become a little wary of air travel this year with flight delays, cancellations, and lost and damaged luggage so we booked with care.

AKL-IAH-MCO

Check-in at Auckland was a breeze and apart from some re-allocation of weight between bags (boat parts are heavy!), we were quickly ready to depart. We settled into our seats and had a great trip up looking forward to a return to the warmth.

Fourteen hours later in Houston, the customs queue was tiny compared to our last trip through so things are looking up and we had a 2-hour connection to Orlando. After claiming our bags we went to check in for the next leg. We were directed to the United transfer desk and a queue at least 4 or 5 groups long including one guy with 3 trolleys laden with 15 or 16 large cardboard boxes! With one person on the counter, the line was going nowhere. Some discrete enquiries revealed another transfer desk in the adjacent terminal so with directions we went down escalators, up and down in lifts, along corridors, and found the desk. Another bag weight re-allocation (boat parts are still heavy) our 25kg bag became 50lbs and we snuck in with 148lbs of luggage in 3 bags. We turned around to find most of the other people in the previous queue had followed us but not the man with the boxes.

Missed Opportunity

The plane to Orlando loaded on time but then there was a big delay with some technical issue. Finally, for some reason, they needed to offload 12 people from a full flight and were offering money, a ticket to the same destination the next day, and a hotel. At first, we thought they said $500 but it was actually $2500 each as one girl went up to check. We were too slow in the stampede but there were some very happy young backpackers who had a huge bonus. We have no idea why the people needed to come off as it was a B737 and only a 2 1/2-hour flight.

We made Orlando and the hotel late that night, very glad to see a bed. Dinner consisted of a prepacked ham sandwich of indeterminate age and an expiry date some distance in the future. Not sure of the food value but it filled a gap.

Orlando and Hurricane Idalia

We knew there was a hurricane forming in the Gulf of Mexico between Cuba and Mexico and heading for Florida. By morning it was a fully fledged storm with a name and likely to be at least a grade 3 hurricane. The local television channels were beside themselves with excitement with endless predictions of tracks, landfalls, and severity with many on-site broadcasts from locations along the West coast of Florida. These even banished Trump and his legal woes from the news.

The only question for us was would the storm affect us in Orlando as we were due to fly out for Trinidad the next day. On balance it seemed unlikely so we decided to continue with our travel plans and visit the Searey factory in Tavares about 50 miles away.

Searey – Progressive Aerodyne

After grabbing a rental from down the road (a $ 17-a-day car became $55 after tolls, taxes, and fees?), it was off to Tavares and the Searey factory. Our drive there was a complete contrast to a recent trip from Chicago to Oshkosh in Wisconsin. Florida appears to be one big subdivision with rows of housing all down the Florida Turnpike and no sign of any enterprise to support it. Variety consisted of multi-unit developments in the less desirable areas and expensive-looking gated communities in others. In contrast, the motorway in Wisconsin was lined with factories, warehouses, and businesses. Interestingly Florida’s population is around 21 million and Wisconsin’s only 6 million with both states having similar land areas.

Arriving in Tavares, a small town on a lake we went in search of Progressive Aerodyne to try and find out what was going on.

The factory is located right on a small lake complete with a launching ramp for the planes and an old slot for a boat lift. An ideal place to run the operation.

The current owners are Chinese investors who have stopped funding the enterprise which is effectively shut down. As the largest amphibian manufacturer in the USA, they have laid off all but a couple of staff even though they have back orders for several aeroplanes and over 1200 existing aircraft to support with parts and knowledge.

The CEO was the only person there but we were not sure if we were going to find anyone as he had not replied to emails or phone calls. He was a very nice guy but unfortunately not a manager or a salesman – he is an engineer. We went down to the parts department where they have orders for parts from all over but are struggling to fill them with many things out of stock and no money to purchase them. We found an order from another NZ Searey owner which is nearly finished but when we tried to add things to the order discovered the parts we wanted were not there. In the end, we left with some undercarriage legs (similar to boat parts) and left some other things on backorder.

Hopefully, the existing owners or some new investors will start operations again.

Bar on the Lake – Lake Harris Hideaway

Five minutes drive from the Searey factory on another lake was a likely-looking bar/restaurant called the Lake Harris Hideaway complete with a dock for boats and seaplanes. A perfect location for lunch but the menu was fried everything mostly with cheese. A few locals were propping up the bar, suspiciously viewing us as strangers. We decided that lunch might be better elsewhere.

Although the food menu was awful the site on the lake and the trees were spectacular and everyone but us had a pickup truck.

Google found us The Twisted Biscuit Diner down the road so we headed there for some local cuisine. Biscuits in the south are scones to us but we had not seen them fried before or filled with mac and cheese. This was a much busier more popular hangout and we soon had lunch after establishing our credentials that we were not from around here.

Weather

While we were tripping around, cyclone Idalia was getting closer to Florida. It was expected to impact the coast further north so we thought it would have little effect on our travel plans.

By the time we got back to our hotel, it was raining. Not much wind and the rain was not really heavy. State-wide warnings were out for high winds and heavy rain. The local TV stations were by now showing live shots of west coast weather with reporters on the beach making all sorts of predictions. Local authorities in many low-lying areas were evacuating residents as the likely landfall was now in the top corner of Florida near the Georgia border. The forecasting by the NOAA Hurricane centre is very informative and provides email updates which we subscribe to for the season. https://www.nhc.noaa.gov/

When the cyclone did make landfall there was a lot of flooding but not nearly as much wind damage as expected.

Orlando – Miami- Port of Spain

The next part of the journey was to Trinidad on American Airlines and we had an early flight out of Orlando in order to arrive in Trinidad mid-afternoon that day. Idalia had largely passed to the North by the morning and we were up early (still on NZ time I think) for a 5.30 a.m. shuttle to the airport.

Due to depart at 0740, the flight was on time and we were there early as was everyone trying to get out of Orlando before the weather got any worse. Boarding started slightly late but as we were getting on the Captain was getting off the flight deck – this did not look good. This was the beginning of a long delay….

Problem 1. The windscreen wipers were not working and it was pouring with rain so they needed to be fixed. Due to the length of delay on the gate, we needed more fuel and we waited for the refueling.

Problem 2. After some time the wipers were fixed and refueled we were ready to push back and the airbridge failed. We then had to wait for engineers to move the airbridge out of the way.

Problem 3. Got the airbridge out of the way and taxied out to the runway. The next minute we are taxiing back again. The cabin crew reported one of the back toilets was overflowing. Found out later that it wasn’t sewerage but water coming from somewhere and the floor was wet.

Problem 4. The plane returned to the same gate which was still broken but by this time it was too late and we had to wait for a tug to move the plane to another gate with a functioning airbridge. Finally got on the gate and they let the engineers on board to fix the problem.

By now it was about 1130 and we had been on board for nearly 4 hours for a 1 hour flight so an offer was made to allow those who wanted to leave the aircraft until it was fixed. This was amended to everyone leaving with all their carry-on luggage as it was not obvious the plane could be repaired and some people were searching for alternative flights.

The Captain kept us largely up-to-date but he became more incredulous as events unfolded, perhaps the plane was jinxed. Barb chatted to him while we de-planed to get the real low down on the issues.

At this stage, we were told we all had to check in again so queues formed at the service desks to reissue boarding passes. Chatting to fellow passengers we discovered several of them had moved to this flight from a later flight so they could arrive earlier! These people included the Prime Minister of Antigua with his family and entourage, luckily people still retained their sense of humour.

An hour and a half later we reboarded with a different seat number and were ready to go. The captain announced our imminent departure and we waited to push back.

Problem 5. As a consequence of Idalia and other issues Miami airport was now full and there was no room for us to land at this time so we had to wait on the gate in Orlando until the backlog cleared. Luckily we had plenty of gas on board because we had refueled earlier. Finally, at around 1.30 pm we were cleared to depart for our 1 hour flight to Miami and a round of applause from the passengers as we finally became airborne.

Arriving in Miami 6 hours late meant another round of queues at the service desks to re-ticket for another flight. American Airlines had decided that our delay was caused by weather making it beyond their control and hence they did not have to pay compensation for those who had to reschedule. This caused some outrage at the service desk with the manager starting to get very stressed as people were demanding better. The airline staff had an official line that “the FAA had called our delay as weather-related not the airline” (a Tui moment Yeah Right) The only good news was for the Prime Minister of Antigua who was informed that the plane we came in on was continuing to Antigua so they did not need to go searching for another flight.

By this time our original flight had already landed in Trinidad so we were transferred to the late flight arriving around 10.30 pm and the pleasant service desk person had given us exit row seats with additional leg room. We had tried to avoid late flights into Port of Spain as we were unsure of nighttime conditions on the ground. (NZ Foreign Affairs has a travel advisory out for Trinidad including the area around the airport especially at night time).

Arriving in Port of Spain, Trinidad

Finally, arriving in Trinidad with our luggage intact and undamaged we were surprised to see the queue for local passport control was longer than for visitors, a first in our travels. We then had over an hour in customs while they charged us for another visa waiver then examined our boat parts and documents and wrote out several more pieces of paper in triplicate suitably stamped for us to take with us. We think Trinidad is one of the last remaining users of carbon paper and forms.

Getting into the arrivals hall our pre-booked taxi driver was nowhere to be seen but luckily Mr Douglas with a fine Toyota Royale taxi of indeterminate age (both car and driver) stepped in and drove us to our hotel in Chaguaramas. Interestingly the taxi fares in both USD and Trinidad Dollars are listed by destination on a big wall chart in the airport so there is no confusion or bargaining.

Of course, the night staff at the fine West Palm Hotel did not know that we were arriving despite having phoned earlier from Miami to confirm our new arrival time. Finally, we made it to bed after 1 a.m. and nearly 20 hours since leaving our hotel in Orlando.

Next Day – First Complete day in Trinidad

Our timing as always was impeccable – the day after we landed was Independence Day and another holiday. 61 years since getting independence from Britain is a big deal here and elsewhere in the Caribbean! Interestingly we don’t have an official date in NZ, it could have been 1835,1840,1853,1919,1926,1947 or 1986 according to some brief online research so take your pick.

The first morning here was beautiful at 0500 clear skies, a mellow 28C, thunderstorms in the distance and the pool looked very inviting.

By lunchtime, it was 34C and pouring with rain. The rain keeps the swimming pool cool!

After a check on the yacht, and then a lazy day we decided we would go out for dinner. Our preferred option was shut so we walked around to the restaurant at Crews Inn about a 1km away on the other side of the harbour. https://www.crewsinn.com/

Our hostess was very funny as we were discussing the holiday and saying how many public holidays they had in Trinidad she said “More holidays than payslips!!”. They have a great sense of humour in Trinidad even if everything is not going well all the time – we were definitely back.

We hope this does not put you off travelling to see us – you just need plenty of time:).

Dingy Loss

The low point of the trip was the previous night at 1 am in the morning in rough seas with a 2m swell we had lost the dinghy. The shackle broke at the engine end and the stern hit the water. Next, the attachment to the floor at the front end ripped off and the dinghy flipped. We were then left with an upside-down dinghy in heavy seas and pitch black blowing 25-30kts. Too dangerous to try and jury rig a hoist to turn it over. As we discussed this the last two lines broke and we lost it. My favourite dinghy was gone. Usually called my racing car!! Very sad. We normally had additional straps on it for long voyages but just hopping from bay to bay around the coast we had got slack and did not think of the additional ties. That with the heavy weather should have sparked our thoughts of the strap but it didn’t. For six years we had sailed with additional straps after a shackle had broken once before. Too late lesson learnt.

Montego Bay

Officials

We arrived late on Sunday afternoon and anchored outside the Montego Bay Yacht Club https://www.mobayyachtclub.com/. Nothing was heard on the radio then. In the morning we called on the phone and told the office that we did not have a dinghy so needed to get a lift on the club boat to do our clearance. The boat duly turned up and the club assisted with all the paperwork. The staff at the club were always very helpful.

Unfortunately, our Yacht Registration had expired and our new one from New Zealand had not arrived. The officials in Cozumel had not been worried about it and were amused when I showed them the email from New Zealand saying the office was on holiday for three weeks. Unfortunately, the Jamaicans were more serious and so impounded our yacht until they could see the new form. The process involved waiting for the enforcement team so they could come to the yacht, look at it and then stick a notice on the door of the salon. The club would not let them use the club boat to take us out because they had their own boats! That involved another 2-hour wait until they found their boatman. The whole process took all day.

The next day we shifted onto the marina until we could find a new dinghy. It had to be first thing in the morning while it was calm so we were all up for a 7 am shift. Everyone else was still asleep, but dropping anchor and backing into the berth went well. Unfortunately, we were twice as long as the marina was intended for and we stuck out the end by some distance.

The bows were side on to the wind and by the afternoon the wind was up to 20kts and the bows were falling off. We got Dawson the dock manager out and he took our spare anchor and dropped it upwind right behind another anchored Gunboat catamaran. This anchor at a slightly different angle and tied to the bow instead of the centre of the yacht(b where the normal anchor is) worked well and held the bows up against the wind.

Boat Names

The Jamaican sense of humour.

Dinghy Hunting

The next three days were spent by Hew trying to find a new dinghy and motor somewhere in Jamaica. After much manoeuvering with locals, we located a small temporary replacement in Kingston. An outboard motor was also possible but seemed expensive. Discussions around a delivery from Kingston to Montego Bay ranged from USD700 to 1200!!! from the local mafia.

Dinghy and Outboard

Hew finally found a couple of locals with a pickup and for a fee less than a rental car (and much less than the mafia) they left for Kingston town early Friday morning. His new best friends Yam and David were great entertainment on the 2 1/2 hour drive to Kingston via the coast road and then over the Chinese-built highway toll road which runs north-south across the island. Fabulous road and high over mountainous terrain through central Jamaica although the tolls are quite steep for the locals at about USD10 each way. The journey was accompanied by explanations of how Jamaica worked and questions about New Zealand.

Arriving in Kingston we tracked down the company with the dinghy via google maps and local instructions – the local creole is essential. After a few wrong turns and trips down some “interesting streets” we found Marine Supplies and our dinghy, it turned out they had lots of them. Yam and David were insistent that we inflated the dinghy before accepting it and the mission was completed, onto the back the pickup it went. Next the outboard motor. David decided that Yamaha was too expensive and Yam thought we needed a local deal. With both of them on phones to everyone they could think of we finally ended up at an outboard mechanic working out the back of a steel fabrication shop who had a good deal on a Parsun 15hp. We then followed him for 20 minutes across town to another warehouse/shop which appeared to sell fans, air conditioners, water heaters, generators, and as it turned out Parsun outboard motors.

VAT Free

I next discovered that licensed fishermen do not have to pay VAT on “fishing equipment” and consequently we are now the proud owners of an outboard bought on David’s fishing license. Apparently, these licenses became very popular during Covid lockdowns as fishermen were allowed to go about their business. Once again David made sure it all ran properly before we took delivery.

The next stop was Duraes, the local chandlery as David was sorting some trailer parts. This operates out of a suburban house with no signage with Durae and his daughters running the operation which started over 30 years ago. It is one the larger and best-stocked chandlery I have seen spread over the rooms of a house and various lean to add ons. A proper Aladin cave of boat stuff.

Lunch

By now it was mid-afternoon and everywhere was a traffic jam and we were looking for lunch, David and Yam were starving. Doughnuts from a street seller were a sugar high only. I then discovered Kentuck Fried is a big deal in Jamaica, apparently, the store in Montego Bay is the biggest KFC store on the planet! After being passed by a police pickup with lights and sirens and a new fridge on the back (an emergency delivery of a beer fridge?) we found a KFC. It certainly is popular with a constant inside queue of 12 -14 people and a further 15 – 20 cars in the drive-in queue.

Police & Traffic

Once we were all fed it was back to Montego Bay which became a nearly 4-hour journey with traffic jams and hold-ups along the way. Lots of police everywhere including guys on motorcycles in dark uniforms, guns and balaclavas obscuring their faces. Generally traveling in groups of 3 they roared up and down the traffic..

The major hold-up was a village with a single set of traffic lights and a Reggae music festival. No guns, knives, or alcohol but joints and vegetarian food are freely available.

Finally, back at the yacht club, the boys decided we needed to launch the dinghy that evening and James appeared in time to be the test pilot. An 8′ dinghy with 15hp is slightly overpowered but we had transport again.

New Registration and Cruising Permit

We finally got the new registration form from New Zealand on Wednesday night so I took it into the club on Thursday morning and expected the officials back that day to release the yacht so that we could then apply for a cruising permit. No sign of them Thursday. Friday I was told they would be there in the morning. The person responsible finally turned up at 1600 on Friday. Apparently, I was told that the person who wrote out the ticket had to take off the ticket! Unfortunately, she had given a copy of it to Hew and she wanted that bit of paper. He had gone to town with it in his wallet and the official would not accept that the copy on the yacht was enough. Therefore it was delayed to Saturday.

Saturday another official turned up and as we were talking I explained that I needed the form for the cruising permit. The cruising permit took all day to organise between trying to pay for it and using the office to call the officials to process the permit on a Saturday. When it finally arrived it was for a steamship!!! (The one below was for Port Antonio and I had not thought to take a photo of the one from Montego Bay. You have to check in and get a new one at each port!! )

J22 Sailing

With all the delay I could not go to the J22 briefing so could not sail. Off the boys went and I was delegated to help with the starts!! Still, it was a good place to get some fun photos. The races were fairly casual but lots of fun. Hew and James were on different boats and the wind really got up.

Doctors Cave Beach and the Hip Strip

We got out of the marina late Sunday morning and took off across the bay to Doctors Cave Beach. It was a great feeling to be out of the marina and in clean fresh water and away from the afternoon wind. We parked not far from Marguerite’s Cafe and restaurant https://www.margueritesjamaica.com/ and went in for dinner because you can take the dinghy to their pier. It was a very nice relaxing place. If you are a cruise cat/boat you can tie up there and use the water slides as well.

We stayed the night and then returned to the marina the next day to complete the checkout before leaving.

Cruise ships

Montego Bay can handle 2 or 3 cruise ships at a time and they are huge. Right in front of the club is the turning area for these ships. The area is marked by lit buoys and you have to anchor behind the line. The larger ships get very close as you can see from these photos.

On the day after the races the club was hosting the Pineapple cup https://www.pineapplecup.com/so we watched the first boat come in and went to the welcoming party at the invitation of the club. The other two yachts had not arrived as it was a slow passage. One arrived in the middle of the night and as we at 6 am departed we passed the last boat as it sailed down the coast.

Discovery Bay

Departing Montego Bay in the Quiet of the morning we thought we would be able to carry the light winds and calm seas for half the day which would get us to Ocho Rios. Unfortunately, the wind and sea came up faster and so we decided to pull into Discovery Bay instead and then depart the following evening for a night passage to Port Antonio. This was not a planned stop and we were very pleasantly surprised at what a lovely harbour it was. We could have stayed several days.

Jamaica was the site of several James Bond movies and Discovery Bay was the site of “Dr. No,” where the villain’s lair was actually a bauxite storage facility owned by Noranda.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dr._No_(film)

While we were there a French yacht that we had come across at Cozumel, then at Montego Bay also arrived. Due to the weather, they had decided to call in and stay for the weekend. They did not have the diesel to motor at all and were waiting for some favourable winds.

The next stop was Port Antonio. kiwiflyingfish.com/2023/03/beautiful-sheltered-port-antonio/