Hvar

We (Barb, Hew and Grahame), arrived at Stari Grad about lunchtime and asked if we could park on the quay for a couple of hours to look around and have lunch. the harbour guys said no problem and no charge – a nice surprise. This was a lovely town both for the harbour, buildings and peacefulness.

As we set off we came to the house of a famous local poet Petar Hektorović’s Tvrdalj who built it throughout his life. The house for him and his friends had the same importance for him as his literary work. The fish ponds were connected directly to the sea and a local stream so the water was brackish – very clever. The fish pond also had a dovecot over it as well.

We departed Stari Grad after lunch and headed for Brac. The wind was northerly 20kt directly on the nose with a rising sea, so we decided to go to any bay that we could reach on the western side without tacking. then I noticed that I had marked one on the chart for the Monastery in Luka Brac. Arrived two yachts were already there and one had the whole of the head of the bay!. The other was anchored and tied back stern to the north so we decided to anchor the opposite. We got a good spot and had a calm night despite wind raging outside the bay for several hours.

Brac

Arrived in Brac at Milna harbour and cruised into the town for a look then out again to find a nice bay. Met a local chap as he checked his anchor was clear and he told us it was his favourite port.

We departed Stari Grad after lunch and headed for Brac. The wind was northerly 20kt directly on the nose with a rising sea, so we decided to go to any bay that we could reach on the western side without tacking. then I noticed that I had marked one on the chart for the Monastery in Luka Brac. Arrived two yachts were already there and one had the whole of the head of the bay!. The other was anchored and tied back stern to the north so we decided to anchor the opposite, found a good spot and had a calm night despite wind raging outside the bay for several hours.

The Blaca Monastery and Hermitage were erected in the karst caves of Vidova Gora on the south of Brac Island. Two monks started Blaca in 1551 by acquiring more land around the monastery and cultivating olive oil and vineyards. The monks traded the monastery’s products to passing sailing ships and the monastery flourished in the 18^th Century. The second golden age of the hermitage was the beginning of the 19^th Century when defence walls and a fort were built as well as other additions like the New House and the Peasant House and the water supply was regulated. the monastery holds a collection of Glagolitic scripts and other religious items plus a collection of clocks and the third most powerful telescope in Croatia. The last monk father Niko Milicevic Jr., a well-known astronomer, died in 1963.

Departed the bay heading for a long sailing day up the coast. As per normal the wind faded and it was a motor sail. A few hours later the wind freshened and the day turned cold and grey. Just when we were thinking of snorkeling on a wreck!! Gave that a miss and went into Rogoznica.

Rogonznica & the Dragons Eye

We were making our way north and estimating that we did not have much time if we wanted to have a good look around Sibenik. We were also going to have a look at the town and harbour of Rogoznica as a possible drop off and pick up point for Split. Since Split is so busy in summer alternatives are much cheaper. We had heard there was a good marina here and wanted to view that and the harbour. We discovered that generally, the harbour was uninspiring, and the Frapa Marina was lovely but expensive €260. There was a hotel as well and several shops. I finally got myself some rock hopping shoes – after all this time in bare feet. the boys checked out the chandlers and decided it was no good.

We then found a lovely little bay over the hill from the marina and anchored there among the day boats and a few other yachts. A great spot. In the morning we walked over the hill to look at the marina and find the “dragons eye”. This is a sinkhole and a brilliant swimming area. Access to the sea is below sea level and the water has been known to get covered in algae growth during the summer. But it is a lovely spot and great to swim in sheltered from the wind. Also, great rock jumping – a national pastime here.

Next stop Sibenik